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Train horns

historicalarms

Ultra Member

I acquired this set of horns and brass bell some years ago from a fellow that worked at the ALIS yards in Calgary, they both came off the same locomotive that was being "salvaged of parts". He was a very good old friend & I did some "lathework/gunsmithing for him and refused any payment. The next time he was by my place he dropped these items off for me. He has since past on but I have these items for reminders.
That brass bell hangs on my back deck for a dinner bell at family bbq's, the damn thing must weigh 30-40 lbs and can be heard 1/2 way across the 1/4 section in background of the photo. It is tarnished now from hanging in the elements for 15 years but when I got it from the guy he had spun it in a lathe at work to polish it up and it shone like new penny.
Keepsakes and reminders from a simple old "real mountain man" that had a good paying union job until ALIS changed hands.
 

YYCHM

(Craig)
Premium Member
So, what became of this project? Are they mounted on the truck?
 
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Chicken lights

Forum Pony Express Driver
So, what became of this project? Are they mounted on the truck?
They got moved lower on the priority list, unfortunately. Stuff that breaks or wears out gets priority

maybe I should break the air horn thats on the truck then I’ll HAVE to fix it....
 

Chicken lights

Forum Pony Express Driver
078D3659-FA94-4ADD-9B0A-20C62E405B18.jpeg 031ED362-3037-455F-A330-8342A6E15DF6.jpeg 67BEE7DA-9D0E-48CF-BAD7-45FE5440C0A1.jpeg Started making the adapters today. The first ones a little crude.

Figured to make them from 3 pieces. 1/2” flat top and bottom with a piece of 2” solid round stock in the middle. Have it tigged together then final tapping. It’s 1/2” NPT on one end and a loose 1/2” hole on the other end. Figured to leave all three pieces at 1/2”, bolt all three pieces together then get it welded up.
 

Chicken lights

Forum Pony Express Driver
This’ll confuse some people- I asked my buddy how to plumb them today. He said to buy a brake valve, $50-60 or so. Try to get one with 5/8” NPT in and out ports. Then use the existing air line from the pull cord valve, as the signal line.

So from the air tank, 5/8” line to the brake valve. 5/8” line to the manifold. Reuse the existing 1/4” or 3/8” that went to the old air horn as a signal line. Then 1/2” line from the manifold to each individual horn.

The way a brake valve works is when you step on the brake pedal, a treadle valve controls how much air gets sent to the brake valve. (To my knowledge; there will be different systems). So instead of a treadle valve controlling the brake valve the pull cord will take its place. Same concept, pull the cord a little not much air is asked for. Pull the cord all the way (standing on the brake pedal) it says we need all the air we can get.
 

Chicken lights

Forum Pony Express Driver
Ok, I had that much figured out already. What will the total assembly look like and how does it mount on the truck?
Check post 21, 28 and 35

The round part of the red thing will get mounted to a bracket using the four bolt holes. Then an air line fitting will screw in to feed it air
 

historicalarms

Ultra Member
Just passing on what I've been told Chicken....both guys I knew with locomotive horns both said the regular 1/4" air delivery lines didn't offer enough volume, the pressure was there, but horn reeds require volume to be efficient. They both used a simple 1/2" ball valve to energize the horns.
The one I have in my shop is fed by a 1/2" line and works excellent until it drains the pressure down so volume is also diminishing.
 

Chicken lights

Forum Pony Express Driver
Just passing on what I've been told Chicken....both guys I knew with locomotive horns both said the regular 1/4" air delivery lines didn't offer enough volume, the pressure was there, but horn reeds require volume to be efficient. They both used a simple 1/2" ball valve to energize the horns.
The one I have in my shop is fed by a 1/2" line and works excellent until it drains the pressure down so volume is also diminishing.
I’m understanding what you’re saying, but it should work fine as a signal line, to open the brake valve? No different than stepping on the brake pedal?
 

Chicken lights

Forum Pony Express Driver
89FD7590-7F1B-4CB4-8AA3-7C44622C782A.jpeg 691E11FA-D871-455B-915D-D3AF6E950AF1.jpeg This is moving really slowly, even by my standards:confused:
I need to find a better way to cut out the bottom 4” aluminum pieces, my drill press is not happy cutting them. But that’s the general idea, get those three pieces welded up to replicate the red piece then make it prettier. Got the brass fittings for the manifold.

The blue part is a brake valve. I forget the exact sizes but the big holes are the in and out the small one on top is the signal line I’ll use from the original air horn pull cord. All that does is open and close the valve, the supply is either 5/8” or 3/4” right from the air tanks
 

YYCHM

(Craig)
Premium Member
I need to find a better way to cut out the bottom 4” aluminum pieces, my drill press is not happy cutting them. But that’s the general idea, get those three pieces welded up to replicate the red piece then make it prettier. Got the brass fittings for the manifold.

Got a lathe:p
 

Chicken lights

Forum Pony Express Driver
Got a lathe:p
I actually would have zero idea how to cut out a round shape from a rectangle shape on a lathe
Even if you could chuck up the rectangle piece wouldn’t it be too out of balance to cut a straight circle?
I guess maybe cut the rectangle into squares wouldn’t be as bad

I dunno, but that’s too much thinking for this boy tonight
 

YYCHM

(Craig)
Premium Member
I actually would have zero idea how to cut out a round shape from a rectangle shape on a lathe
Even if you could chuck up the rectangle piece wouldn’t it be too out of balance to cut a straight circle?
I guess maybe cut the rectangle into squares wouldn’t be as bad

I dunno, but that’s too much thinking for this boy tonight

The 6" piece I just turned round wasn't exactly square but it was close. Does that lathe of yours have a face plate? Is that aluminum you're playing with?
 
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CalgaryPT

Ultra Member
Vendor
Premium Member
View attachment 17815View attachment 17816This is moving really slowly, even by my standards:confused:
I need to find a better way to cut out the bottom 4” aluminum pieces, my drill press is not happy cutting them. But that’s the general idea, get those three pieces welded up to replicate the red piece then make it prettier. Got the brass fittings for the manifold.

The blue part is a brake valve. I forget the exact sizes but the big holes are the in and out the small one on top is the signal line I’ll use from the original air horn pull cord. All that does is open and close the valve, the supply is either 5/8” or 3/4” right from the air tanks
Fun project.
 
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historicalarms

Ultra Member
Dang Dave I didnt think of showing you my horn set-up when we were working at the shop ( are you still happy with the "jury rigged" toolbox adjustments we made?).

If I'm understanding properly your dilemma, you want to make the top square piece of aluminum round. You already have a center hole in the piece, tighten a bolt into the hole and chuck the bolt up in a lathe chuck & start cutting...will be round in short order.
 

Chicken lights

Forum Pony Express Driver
Dang Dave I didnt think of showing you my horn set-up when we were working at the shop ( are you still happy with the "jury rigged" toolbox adjustments we made?).

If I'm understanding properly your dilemma, you want to make the top square piece of aluminum round. You already have a center hole in the piece, tighten a bolt into the hole and chuck the bolt up in a lathe chuck & start cutting...will be round in short order.
9B2E1E2D-A893-452E-A6C7-8F867C6D7FDF.jpeg I’d have to cut it in half before I could chuck it in a lathe, I thought I’d be able to just bang them out on a drill press. Guess I should finish fixing the lathe.

The toolbox is so much nicer to use now! I haven’t noticed any issues with it since.
 
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