• Scam Alert. Members are reminded to NOT send money to buy anything. Don't buy things remote and have it shipped - go get it yourself, pay in person, and take your equipment with you. Scammers have burned people on this forum. Urgency, secrecy, excuses, selling for friend, newish members, FUD, are RED FLAGS. A video conference call is not adequate assurance. Face to face interactions are required. Please report suspicions to the forum admins. Stay Safe - anyone can get scammed.

Train horns

Chicken lights said:
View attachment 13635View attachment 13636View attachment 13637View attachment 13638
@historicalarms
I’ll let him share details
Click to expand...

I acquired this set of horns and brass bell some years ago from a fellow that worked at the ALIS yards in Calgary, they both came off the same locomotive that was being "salvaged of parts". He was a very good old friend & I did some "lathework/gunsmithing for him and refused any payment. The next time he was by my place he dropped these items off for me. He has since past on but I have these items for reminders.
That brass bell hangs on my back deck for a dinner bell at family bbq's, the damn thing must weigh 30-40 lbs and can be heard 1/2 way across the 1/4 section in background of the photo. It is tarnished now from hanging in the elements for 15 years but when I got it from the guy he had spun it in a lathe at work to polish it up and it shone like new penny.
Keepsakes and reminders from a simple old "real mountain man" that had a good paying union job until ALIS changed hands.
 
So, what became of this project? Are they mounted on the truck?
 
Last edited:
078D3659-FA94-4ADD-9B0A-20C62E405B18.jpeg
031ED362-3037-455F-A330-8342A6E15DF6.jpeg
67BEE7DA-9D0E-48CF-BAD7-45FE5440C0A1.jpeg
Started making the adapters today. The first ones a little crude.

Figured to make them from 3 pieces. 1/2” flat top and bottom with a piece of 2” solid round stock in the middle. Have it tigged together then final tapping. It’s 1/2” NPT on one end and a loose 1/2” hole on the other end. Figured to leave all three pieces at 1/2”, bolt all three pieces together then get it welded up.
 
This’ll confuse some people- I asked my buddy how to plumb them today. He said to buy a brake valve, $50-60 or so. Try to get one with 5/8” NPT in and out ports. Then use the existing air line from the pull cord valve, as the signal line.

So from the air tank, 5/8” line to the brake valve. 5/8” line to the manifold. Reuse the existing 1/4” or 3/8” that went to the old air horn as a signal line. Then 1/2” line from the manifold to each individual horn.

The way a brake valve works is when you step on the brake pedal, a treadle valve controls how much air gets sent to the brake valve. (To my knowledge; there will be different systems). So instead of a treadle valve controlling the brake valve the pull cord will take its place. Same concept, pull the cord a little not much air is asked for. Pull the cord all the way (standing on the brake pedal) it says we need all the air we can get.
 
YYCHM said:
Ok, I had that much figured out already. What will the total assembly look like and how does it mount on the truck?
Click to expand...
Check post 21, 28 and 35

The round part of the red thing will get mounted to a bracket using the four bolt holes. Then an air line fitting will screw in to feed it air
 
Just passing on what I've been told Chicken....both guys I knew with locomotive horns both said the regular 1/4" air delivery lines didn't offer enough volume, the pressure was there, but horn reeds require volume to be efficient. They both used a simple 1/2" ball valve to energize the horns.
The one I have in my shop is fed by a 1/2" line and works excellent until it drains the pressure down so volume is also diminishing.
 
historicalarms said:
Just passing on what I've been told Chicken....both guys I knew with locomotive horns both said the regular 1/4" air delivery lines didn't offer enough volume, the pressure was there, but horn reeds require volume to be efficient. They both used a simple 1/2" ball valve to energize the horns.
The one I have in my shop is fed by a 1/2" line and works excellent until it drains the pressure down so volume is also diminishing.
Click to expand...
I’m understanding what you’re saying, but it should work fine as a signal line, to open the brake valve? No different than stepping on the brake pedal?
 
89FD7590-7F1B-4CB4-8AA3-7C44622C782A.jpeg
691E11FA-D871-455B-915D-D3AF6E950AF1.jpeg
This is moving really slowly, even by my standards:confused:
I need to find a better way to cut out the bottom 4” aluminum pieces, my drill press is not happy cutting them. But that’s the general idea, get those three pieces welded up to replicate the red piece then make it prettier. Got the brass fittings for the manifold.

The blue part is a brake valve. I forget the exact sizes but the big holes are the in and out the small one on top is the signal line I’ll use from the original air horn pull cord. All that does is open and close the valve, the supply is either 5/8” or 3/4” right from the air tanks
 
Chicken lights said:
I need to find a better way to cut out the bottom 4” aluminum pieces, my drill press is not happy cutting them. But that’s the general idea, get those three pieces welded up to replicate the red piece then make it prettier. Got the brass fittings for the manifold.
Click to expand...

Got a lathe:p
 
YYCHM said:
Got a lathe:p
Click to expand...
I actually would have zero idea how to cut out a round shape from a rectangle shape on a lathe
Even if you could chuck up the rectangle piece wouldn’t it be too out of balance to cut a straight circle?
I guess maybe cut the rectangle into squares wouldn’t be as bad

I dunno, but that’s too much thinking for this boy tonight
 
Chicken lights said:
I actually would have zero idea how to cut out a round shape from a rectangle shape on a lathe
Even if you could chuck up the rectangle piece wouldn’t it be too out of balance to cut a straight circle?
I guess maybe cut the rectangle into squares wouldn’t be as bad

I dunno, but that’s too much thinking for this boy tonight
Click to expand...

The 6" piece I just turned round wasn't exactly square but it was close. Does that lathe of yours have a face plate? Is that aluminum you're playing with?
 
Last edited:
Chicken lights said:
View attachment 17815View attachment 17816This is moving really slowly, even by my standards:confused:
I need to find a better way to cut out the bottom 4” aluminum pieces, my drill press is not happy cutting them. But that’s the general idea, get those three pieces welded up to replicate the red piece then make it prettier. Got the brass fittings for the manifold.

The blue part is a brake valve. I forget the exact sizes but the big holes are the in and out the small one on top is the signal line I’ll use from the original air horn pull cord. All that does is open and close the valve, the supply is either 5/8” or 3/4” right from the air tanks
Click to expand...
Fun project.
 
Last edited:
Dang Dave I didnt think of showing you my horn set-up when we were working at the shop ( are you still happy with the "jury rigged" toolbox adjustments we made?).

If I'm understanding properly your dilemma, you want to make the top square piece of aluminum round. You already have a center hole in the piece, tighten a bolt into the hole and chuck the bolt up in a lathe chuck & start cutting...will be round in short order.
 
historicalarms said:
Dang Dave I didnt think of showing you my horn set-up when we were working at the shop ( are you still happy with the "jury rigged" toolbox adjustments we made?).

If I'm understanding properly your dilemma, you want to make the top square piece of aluminum round. You already have a center hole in the piece, tighten a bolt into the hole and chuck the bolt up in a lathe chuck & start cutting...will be round in short order.
Click to expand...
9B2E1E2D-A893-452E-A6C7-8F867C6D7FDF.jpeg
I’d have to cut it in half before I could chuck it in a lathe, I thought I’d be able to just bang them out on a drill press. Guess I should finish fixing the lathe.

The toolbox is so much nicer to use now! I haven’t noticed any issues with it since.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top