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The “free” First LC-1 1/2 VS Mill

So I’ve been away from the forum for a bit and thought I’d provide an update on the free mill.

It’s home and running now for a couple months. Finished the head rebuild, everything else cleaned up, new oiler and tubing, 240v motor installed and new cooling fans installed and wired on the head.

I do still have a few items on my to do list for it though. The Vevor VFD I’m using is very noisy. It works fine but I find it a bit annoying so I’d like to replace it with a higher end unit at some point.

I bought scales for a touch DRO set up on the machine and got it going with X and Y which was fairly straightforward. I kept the bracket for the Y scale that came with the machine which made it pretty easy. The Z (knee) scale install will be a bit more involved so that’s on the back burner for now.

All in all I probably spend $1500 or maybe a little less between the motor, new bearings, way wipers and the DRO set up. Pretty happy with it!
 

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So I’ve been away from the forum for a bit and thought I’d provide an update on the free mill.

It’s home and running now for a couple months. Finished the head rebuild, everything else cleaned up, new oiler and tubing, 240v motor installed and new cooling fans installed and wired on the head.

I do still have a few items on my to do list for it though. The Vevor VFD I’m using is very noisy. It works fine but I find it a bit annoying so I’d like to replace it with a higher end unit at some point.

I bought scales for a touch DRO set up on the machine and got it going with X and Y which was fairly straightforward. I kept the bracket for the Y scale that came with the machine which made it pretty easy. The Z (knee) scale install will be a bit more involved so that’s on the back burner for now.

All in all I probably spend $1500 or maybe a little less between the motor, new bearings, way wipers and the DRO set up. Pretty happy with it!
Looks good!
 
Can you change the carrier frequency on the Vevor vfd? I have a cheap vfd on my drill press and I changed the carrier frequency from the factory setting which I think was 2000 HZ to about 12000 HZ which moved it out of normal human hearing range and made the vfd very quiet.
 
Glad to see you back. We have all missed you.

The Vevor VFD I’m using is very noisy. It works fine but I find it a bit annoying so I’d like to replace it with a higher end unit at some point.

Is this fan noise or the high frequency whine of the carrier? You might be able to muffle the fan, and as @John Conroy says, the carrier frequency can probably be moved out of your hearing band. He says he moved his to 12. That wasn't enough for me. I couldn't hear it even at 8 but my wife screamed louder than the VFD did at 12. Pretty sure I ended up at 16k. Anyway, it's worth playing with before you spend the coin on a higher end VFD.

I bought scales for a touch DRO set up on the machine and got it going with X and Y which was fairly straightforward. I kept the bracket for the Y scale that came with the machine which made it pretty easy. The Z (knee) scale install will be a bit more involved so that’s on the back burner for now.

The touch system supports 4 axis and will combine two of them. Mine turned out awesome that way. You can start with either one and do the other later. I guess if I only did one it would be the knee.

The combined Z axis install on my mill should be the same as yours. I think the key to a good Z axis install is to pitch all the brackets they send you with your DRO and make your own custom brackets. Anyway, here is the link to what was a lot of fun for me.

Post in thread 'Installing a DRO on a Hartford Bridgeport Clone.' https://canadianhobbymetalworkers.c...n-a-hartford-bridgeport-clone.4852/post-71947

Again, welcome back!
 
Looking good Rauce. Thanks for the note about the vevor VFD. I have one on the way for my shaper. I'd heard they were a bit noisy, but I never would have thought, or known about changing the frequency. We'll see how it is when it gets here in the new year.
 
So I’ve been away from the forum for a bit and thought I’d provide an update on the free mill.

Lots to notice in your photo.

Nice GS vise! Bet you love that!

Did you wire the drum switch to the F/Rev on the VFD?

What is that gizmo on the left side of your mill base?
 
I think the key to a good Z axis install is to pitch all the brackets they send you with your DRO and make your own custom brackets.
I have the same mill, with TouchDRO.
X and Y I did with rigid magnetic scales.
Z I did a short rigid segment on the quill, attached to the nut on the quill depth-of-cut stop. It looks a little janky, but has been holding up admirably.


PXL_20231223_160156687.jpg

For the knee Z though I went with magnetic tape directly on the main casting with the reader attached to the knee. He mill has a short flat next to the knee dovetail that provides a good landing:
PXL_20231223_160224829.jpg
I work in computing so please don't comment on my cable management.
 
Can you change the carrier frequency on the Vevor vfd? I have a cheap vfd on my drill press and I changed the carrier frequency from the factory setting which I think was 2000 HZ to about 12000 HZ which moved it out of normal human hearing range and made the vfd very quiet.

I’ll have to check that, the noise is both the fan and the HF whine. I’ve always figured the whine was unavoidable with VFDs but in my experience the higher end units have quieter fans which in some cases work on demand instead of always being on.

Lots to notice in your photo.

Nice GS vise! Bet you love that!

Did you wire the drum switch to the F/Rev on the VFD?

What is that gizmo on the left side of your mill base?

Yeah the vise has been great, I have two that I got in a package deal and the second one is wrapped up in some oily rags on the mill tooling shelf for when I need to use two!

Yes I wired the drum to the forward reverse. Decided to keep it simple for now. Haven’t even needed to change the frequency since the variable speed head works just fine. Another reason to upgrade to a better VFD would be the ability to add a braking resistor. The VFD can’t decelerate all that quickly on its own and I’ve learned that if muscle memory kicks in and I hit the brake on the head it faults out the drive (used to doing that on a proper 3 phase supplied machine at work).

By Gizmo I think you mean the welding magnets I have stuck there? They’ve since moved to a more appropriate spot. I’m guessing the one that caught your eye is the grasshopper clamp:

 
@PaulL Nice. Very similar to mine. I wouldn't call it Janky.

I like your base Z scale. My mill didn't have that so I had to use body filler to create a level edge.

I work in computing so please don't comment on my cable management

This is a much bigger potential problem than cable management.....

PXL_20231223_160224829.jpg

I'd be afraid of swarf accumulating behind your way cover like that could get onto the ways and gouge them.
 
You shouldn't have swarf accumulating behind your way cover like that. It will get onto the ways and gouge them.
Aye. I need to up my "last 30 minutes is to clean the machines and shop" game. Swarf control turns out to be my least favorite part of this hobby. I know there are threads discussing it at length. The only answer for me is going to be to find a better place for everything living withing 4' of the mill so that it's easier to work all around it.
 
I have the same mill, with TouchDRO.
X and Y I did with rigid magnetic scales.
Z I did a short rigid segment on the quill, attached to the nut on the quill depth-of-cut stop. It looks a little janky, but has been holding up admirably.


View attachment 41957
For the knee Z though I went with magnetic tape directly on the main casting with the reader attached to the knee. He mill has a short flat next to the knee dovetail that provides a good landing:View attachment 41958I work in computing so please don't comment on my cable management.

I ordered regular glass scales for X/Y/Knee. I kind of trust them more I guess and there are no space constraints so I didn’t feel I had to with magnetic scales. Custom brackets will definitely be needed for the knee which is why I’ve put it on the back burner for now.

I should mention that I ordered a bunch of fittings for the oil system from Aliexpress. Metering check valves, aluminum tubing, ptfe tubing and associated fittings. The fittings all came in minimum quantities of 10 and large coils of tubing so I have a lot left over if anyone needs some. It was significantly cheaper to buy way more than I needed from Aliexpress than to order smaller quantities from a North American or European retailer.
 

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Aye. I need to up my "last 30 minutes is to clean the machines and shop" game. Swarf control turns out to be my least favorite part of this hobby. I know there are threads discussing it at length. The only answer for me is going to be to find a better place for everything living withing 4' of the mill so that it's easier to work all around it.
I use a magnetic pickup for easy cleanup of steel swarf.
 
Aye. I need to up my "last 30 minutes is to clean the machines and shop" game. Swarf control turns out to be my least favorite part of this hobby. I know there are threads discussing it at length. The only answer for me is going to be to find a better place for everything living withing 4' of the mill so that it's easier to work all around it.

Cleaning up afterward is my current practice too. But that doesn't prevent swarf from getting into the places where you don't want it. So I've been using cardboard as a shield. What I want in the long run is a cover that stops it from getting in there in the first place. Accordion covers work but collect swarf too. Flaps work but stuff gets behind them. So far, I'm leaning toward heavy canvas with shields.
 
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Cleaning up afterward is my current practice too. But that doesn't prevent swarf. From getting into the places where you don't want it. So I've been using cardboard as a shield. What I want in the long run is a cover that stops it from getting in there in the first place. Accordion covers work but collect swarf too. Flaps work but stuff gets behind them. So far, I'm leaning toward heavy canvas with shields.
I have a hideous pile of poly vapour barrier I use when I'm running the flood coolant. It helps contain the mess, but it's still a mess. And the poly remains a mess even after cleanup. I did a quick box out of coreplast, but it was always in the way, though I might have a better to set one up for the future.
I understand why modern machines are fully enclosed.
 
I have a hideous pile of poly vapour barrier I use when I'm running the flood coolant. It helps contain the mess, but it's still a mess. And the poly remains a mess even after cleanup. I did a quick box out of coreplast, but it was always in the way, though I might have a better to set one up for the future.
I understand why modern machines are fully enclosed.

I try to accomplish this goal with a cardboard box. It is not an enclosure but it's a huge HELP! I can just dump the majority of the swarf.

20231216_093942.jpg
 
I ordered regular glass scales for X/Y/Knee. I kind of trust them more I guess and there are no space constraints so I didn’t feel I had to with magnetic scales. Custom brackets will definitely be needed for the knee which is why I’ve put it on the back burner for now.

Good to see you’re up and running! I think you’re going to like the TDRO setup.

If you’re looking for idea sources, I put glass on the knee of my LC1-1/2, mounting the scale on a bar attached to the column by a couple of stand-offs. I also did a custom mag tape scale on my quill, the goal was to make it as compact as possible with the minimum of mods to the machine.

The thread is HERE , starting at post 19.

D :cool:
 
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