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Tool Soldering iron recommendation

Tool

slow-poke

Ultra Member
I'm spoiled I have a couple of Metcal however I would not recommend them for your use because they are not very portable and are overkill for your purpose. BTW they heat up in 3-4 seconds!

For wires to switches and similar I would recommend the Weller as others have, in fact I keep my old Weller WTCP must be 40 years old in my mechanical area just for that purpose. The super flexible cable, decent tip that does not foul easily and longevity are the main reasons.

These reviews about sum it up:

kijiji has some used ones $20-$50



I have not used Hako but from what I have read a lot of people like them.
 
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Upnorth

Well-Known Member
Another vote for Weller. I bought a WES51 and have been using it for about 20 years. Very consistent results. I don't know if the one I use is still manufactured. I would recommend it or whatever it's replacement is. Even if you buy a used one it should last a lifetime for a hobbiest.
 
Where do you buy it? I don't even see it on DigiKey
I get it direct from the Canadian Distributor. Do you want the resell prices? Generally they sell for reflow and commercial customers in high tech industries but I can resell it on a one of basis.
 
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Go with something that has a digital readout and temperature feedback from the tip. Makes it easy to set the temp and it auto adjusts to the requirements needed during soldering. Don't cheap out here, lead and lead free are different, I went down this rabbit hole 2004 trying to solve my lead free issues.
 

slow-poke

Ultra Member
Go with something that has a digital readout and temperature feedback from the tip. Makes it easy to set the temp and it auto adjusts to the requirements needed during soldering. Don't cheap out here, lead and lead free are different, I went down this rabbit hole 2004 trying to solve my lead free issues.
I'm going to respectfully disagree. For the work you are describing I would actually avoid the stations with the temperature adjustment. I would also avoid the lead free solder. Chances are you will run the tip too hot and destroy the tip. The Weller without the adjustment regulates well, just use good quality leaded solder (63/37) and it will work much better then the lead free for what you are doing. I have been using the same tip on the WTCP for a very long time and it still works very well. Do NOT under any circumstances buy cheap no name solder especially the made in China eBay/Amazon stuff most of it is so bad it wont solder with a $1000 work station. Kester is good if you're looking for a proven brand.


Most of the higher end soldering stations use technology that actually regulates at the tip not via a sensor with the inherent delay that requires.

If you were doing a lot of PCB work then you might need to go lead free and use the higher temperatures required. The Metcal stations I use don't have a temperature adjustment, that is accomplished with selection of the tip at the tip and this method regulates faster and to tighter tolerances. If you ever visit a PCB assembly house chances are you will see nothing but Metcal and possibly Pace.

55B43FD0-F749-4F73-94FC-5E34B9614906.jpeg
BTW used Metcals sell for as little as $50-75 on eBay just make sure it comes with the wand.
 
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Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
Now every time you release the trigger there's a back EMF pulse that can be conducted into the circuit. Very high voltages. Can damage semiconductors.

+42. I know I mentioned this myself, but you explained why. That's always better.
 

phaxtris

(Ryan)
Premium Member
Premium Member
i also have one of these for non electronic type work, aka automotive

/\ I believe I did state it in the post

Anyways, a gun would be an odd thing to use for electronics, with it's near 1/4 wide tip and super high wattage coil, although possible it would also be strange practice to let go of the trigger while the tip was in contact with whatever you were soldering.

Soldering Guns have their place, just another tool
 
I'm going to respectfully disagree. For the work you are describing I would actually avoid the stations with the temperature adjustment. I would also avoid the lead free solder. Chances are you will run the tip too hot and destroy the tip. The Weller without the adjustment regulates well, just use good quality leaded solder (63/37) and it will work much better then the lead free for what you are doing. I have been using the same tip on the WTCP for a very long time and it still works very well. Do NOT under any circumstances buy cheap no name solder especially the made in China eBay/Amazon stuff most of it is so bad it wont solder with a $1000 work station. Kester is good if you're looking for a proven brand.


Most of the higher end soldering stations use technology that actually regulates at the tip not via a sensor with the inherent delay that requires.

If you were doing a lot of PCB work then you might need to go lead free and use the higher temperatures required. The Metcal stations I use don't have a temperature adjustment, that is accomplished with selection of the tip at the tip and this method regulates faster and to tighter tolerances. If you ever visit a PCB assembly house chances are you will see nothing but Metcal and possibly Pace.
Key word here is LEAD FREE not LEADED 63/37.

The people that have issues with lead free have not adapted to what is required and it is a learning curve to some extent. Once you have it figured out it is just as simple as leaded without the lead poisoning and meeting ROHS requirements. I stopped lead 2004 and back then the costs to switch where a lot higher and more difficult.

I use a Weller WD1M it is my work horse that has heat tracing built into the sensor for QC tracking. You can get a full heat trace of as the tip heats and cools during soldering (when you first apply the tip to the work, heat sink, first apply the solder, heat sink, remove the tip, heat rise). Depending on the size of the heat sink, the response can be less than one second to several in either direction, with temperature max ranges (I solder some very large items which have a high heat absorption rate) if set at 720F -20F on application (this is the initial heating period of the work) to +35F on lift (this is the point when the tip is removed from the work and the iron is still applying power, fastest response is in the heat cycle portion as it strives to keep the temp to spec, on lift you rely on air temp to cool which takes a little longer. During the actual soldering no variation.

Weller is one good manufacturer.

JBC is another (believe it or not it was my first choice until I found KOKI solder at which point solder solved the issue and Weller since an upgrade was require the less expensive choice).

Metcal is another.

All of these manfacturers have gone to tip (ie temp sensor in the heating element) sensing digital display feed back systems as Lead Free causes issues if run too hot or too cold.

Too cold is easy as you get cold joint or delaminate the substrate during a slow heating cycle for too hot you have several issues, tip detinning (basically your tip is toast), tip internal erosion (in part fault of the solder composition, hence using the right lead free) when this happens the lead free actual desolves the internal of the tip material and you end up with a void underneath the tip skin, this can have two effects tip explosion with hot molten solder flying all over the place (eyes being the general target by chance), tip collapse (basically you tip is toast, final is a frosted joint as because the solder is overheated and resulting in funny cooling and micro cracking in the joint which results in joint failures (also happens with too cold soldering).

I get all my info directly from the Manufacturers rep and he doesn't sell soldering stations.

As to 63/37 this is lead solder and here as I mentioned earlier just about anything works from a $10 pencil to $2500 Station as long as it has heat. As I also said before I started with lead and used the highest temps possible even on the finest traces and wires (fast hand eye coordination). Lead Free does not follow these principles and proper technique must be used to get proper joints that don't fail.

As recommended by others (and myself) for the price the Weller WE101NA for CDN$164.30 delivered is a great station and far exceeds what most need.


Go Lead free, learn, adjust, master and be safe.


As a foot note I also have a Weller WD2 which looks identical to the WD1 but has 2 ports and 160watts of power, allowing 2 individually controlled upto 80 watt attachments or one 160 watt soldering pencil (I have a 150 watt pencil), before anyone asks yes it is light slim and easy to handle just a shade larger than the standard 20-80 watt pencil), but my 80 watt is the work horse for everything.
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
Thanks for all the information and insights. I have a Weller on order. Should be here Thursday.

Which one? Not gunna second guess what you did, just wanna know what and maybe why. I just got the same question from a buddy in similar shoes. Also looking forward to hearing how you like it afterward.
 

slow-poke

Ultra Member
I bought the Weller WE1010NA because of the recommendations here and the reviews online.
David,
You might want to unplug that model when not in use, apparently the penny pinchers decided that a primary fuse was unnecessary. (EEVBLOG)
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
David,
You might want to unplug that model when not in use, apparently the penny pinchers decided that a primary fuse was unnecessary. (EEVBLOG)

@David_R8 - Further to SlowPoke's comment, this advice is good for most of this kind of equipment.

I have a range of electronics equipment that I use on my electronics work bench. All of it is plugged into a pair of power bars that serve as master switches. When I kill the power bar, I turn everything off at the same time. This includes soldering equipment, power supplies, test equipment, r/c Chargers, and lamps. The lamps are a good reminder to kill the master switch.
 

DPittman

Ultra Member
Premium Member
I still use both the soldering irons I bought at Radio Shack in the 1980s
How about the 40's or 50's? I'm not really sure how this one is but the original cord on it was one of those fabric/cloth looking cords from eons ago. I buggered the innards of it once and need to replace them again. I sort of like it for soldering sheet metal as it has a big old copper tip that holds the heat. 20230313_105548.jpg
 

DavidR8

Scrap maker
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
@David_R8 - Further to SlowPoke's comment, this advice is good for most of this kind of equipment.

I have a range of electronics equipment that I use on my electronics work bench. All of it is plugged into a pair of power bars that serve as master switches. When I kill the power bar, I turn everything off at the same time. This includes soldering equipment, power supplies, test equipment, r/c Chargers, and lamps. The lamps are a good reminder to kill the master switch.
I'm sure it won't surprise you to know that this will be the most advance piece of electronics related gear I own :D
 
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