I’d probably go with just the gasket glue, very thin. On old machinery you can go to town on gaskets, but with precision fits it can interfere if too thick in my experience,
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The reservoir seems to connect to both sides and there is this little hole the oil comes out and up through the bearing cover - that square slot and into the bearing. So the one sight glass covers the whole thing. That empty hole to the right you pointed out earlier Rudy is the drain cock. I guess it does not take much oil at all.
I was astounded. I certainly didn't spend that much!
Timken bearing lubricant. What should I use? I found this pretty vague statement on the Timken site yesterday. ISO 32 through 220. That site is full of complex detailed information but specific advice is lacking. I have on hand iso 32 and 220. I'm sure any lubricant would suffice but what should I actually use? The timken site also equally vague on what preload should be used. Loads of technical information on various preload measurement techniques.. but how about an actual number like ft lbs?
I’d use the ISO 32.
To seat the bearings, I would use a good amount of force (maybe 20-40 ftlbs) while turning the spindle. Back off the nut. Turn the spindle and snug up the nut. Use a pry bar with blocks of wood and an indicator to see if you get any end play (axially) and side play (radially). Adjust the nut to just eliminate play. This will probably leave the bearings a bit loose - that is ok to start with.
Run the lathe and monitor temperature. The bearings should get warm, but not hot. Adjust nut as required to give you the temp you want; about 45*C is what I set my spindle bearings to.
Once you have the bearings running at a steady temp, make some test cuts. If you get chatter (especially while parting), tighten up the pre-load a bit more. At this point you are moving the nut maybe 5* or 10* of arc - basically very little. Monitor and adjust as the bearings are “running in”.
To seat the bearings, I would use a good amount of force (maybe 20-40 ftlbs) while turning the spindle. Back off the nut. Turn the spindle and snug up the nut. Use a pry bar with blocks of wood and an indicator to see if you get any end play (axially) and side play (radially). Adjust the nut to just eliminate play. This will probably leave the bearings a bit loose - that is ok to start with.
Run the lathe and monitor temperature. The bearings should get warm, but not hot. Adjust nut as required to give you the temp you want; about 45*C is what I set my spindle bearings to.
Once you have the bearings running at a steady temp, make some test cuts. If you get chatter (especially while parting), tighten up the pre-load a bit more. At this point you are moving the nut maybe 5* or 10* of arc - basically very little. Monitor and adjust as the bearings are “running in”.
While still a reasonably pricy lathe, in 2000 the Australian dollar was as low as about $0.50 USD.
Dave
I'd also echo the ISO 32 for the Timken, and if it were plain bearings (babbit) I go with the 220.
