If they are twitching while you're machining, turn shake on (see Filter Display Value).
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RF30 Basement Install
- Thread starter YYCHM
- Start date
If they are twitching while you're machining, turn shake on (see Filter Display Value).
DPittman
Ultra Member
What does it mean "while the axis is encoder"?
Attachments
Ahhhhh, I think that should read encoding i.e. moving.
DPittman
Ultra Member
Oh. I dont think I would have even figured out what encoding meant. Thanks
The cleaning tool finally arrived. I isn't going to work. It doesn't have a means of attaching it to a grease fitting, so I can't picture holding it against the fitting tight enough to force oil through.
Going to give this one a go
https://www.amazon.ca/Lumax-LX-1174...push+lube&qid=1596735154&sr=8-126&tag=chmw-20
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Brian Ross
Active Member
Years ago I made an "oil gun" from a small grease gun. I found that I couldn't hold the coupler onto the zirk so that I could actually get oil to pass through the ball valve. I did some google research and found www.LocknLube.com. They make a locking coupler that holds well enough to actually dispense oil. They aren't cheep but they do work.
historicalarms
Ultra Member
My old man wanted an oiler fitting on a piece of farm equipment long ago and tried the grease fitting thing but soon discovered what you guys are finding out also...their not meant for easy flowing oil.
His remedy (and it worked excellent) was to drill the back of the male fitting out so he could remove the spring & ball, leaving an easy "flow through" channel for the oil...next he dismantled the grease gun fitting and removed the 3 "floating tabs" that lock the fitting onto the Zert then inserted a small o-ring into the end that contacted the Zert. He could now hold it tight enough by hand to force the oil through the zert fitting. The grease gun he used for this chore was always a slimy mess as oil always seeped out around the rubber flange at the back end...ohh ya...he also had to remove the advancement spring from the back end and just keep the gun tilted "up" at the back end to keep oil feeding into the pressure stroke chamber.
Just an added bit of interesting info... I once knew the grandson of the German fellow that invented & patent the Zirk ( the grandfathers last name)...wealthiest man I ever knew. he had 3 mansions in North America, the one he calls his "hunting lodge" is 7 miles from my place ( 3,500 sq ft on each floor, 3 floors)...The "big place" as he called it is his ancestral "castle" in Germany. The family now owns the two largest candy factories in Europe...all from something as small and incongruous to all of us as a "grease nipple.
His remedy (and it worked excellent) was to drill the back of the male fitting out so he could remove the spring & ball, leaving an easy "flow through" channel for the oil...next he dismantled the grease gun fitting and removed the 3 "floating tabs" that lock the fitting onto the Zert then inserted a small o-ring into the end that contacted the Zert. He could now hold it tight enough by hand to force the oil through the zert fitting. The grease gun he used for this chore was always a slimy mess as oil always seeped out around the rubber flange at the back end...ohh ya...he also had to remove the advancement spring from the back end and just keep the gun tilted "up" at the back end to keep oil feeding into the pressure stroke chamber.
Just an added bit of interesting info... I once knew the grandson of the German fellow that invented & patent the Zirk ( the grandfathers last name)...wealthiest man I ever knew. he had 3 mansions in North America, the one he calls his "hunting lodge" is 7 miles from my place ( 3,500 sq ft on each floor, 3 floors)...The "big place" as he called it is his ancestral "castle" in Germany. The family now owns the two largest candy factories in Europe...all from something as small and incongruous to all of us as a "grease nipple.
This is new...….
https://www.busybeetools.com/products/grease-gun-push-type-c-w-coupler.html
Wasn't listed a week ago.
https://www.busybeetools.com/products/grease-gun-push-type-c-w-coupler.html
Wasn't listed a week ago.
This https://www.amazon.ca/Lumax-LX-1174...push+lube&qid=1596735154&sr=8-126&tag=chmw-20 arrived today.
It does push oil through but god it's messy. Oil leaks straight out the spout while you're trying to fill it.
I think I'll try converting a grease gun next. This is just too messy.
It does push oil through but god it's messy. Oil leaks straight out the spout while you're trying to fill it.
I think I'll try converting a grease gun next. This is just too messy.
Here is a recap on my quest to find a suitable oiler for my mill.
First up was a grease fitting clearing tool I spotted at PA. $7 something + $10 shipping. Was a no go as soon as I had it in hand to look at it.
Second up was this push type grease gun claiming to work with oil @Brent H spotted on Amazon. $28.10 delivered. First negative is that the zerk coupler is nothing more than a cupped surface, no grabbing jaws. It did push oil but when the oil had no where to go, it leaked past the rubber piston into the air chamber behind and leaked like a sieve.
Third up is this GROZ push type grease gun I spotted at BB. $11.54 on sale. This one looked like it had real potential. All metal, a zerk coupler with jaws. Well... it was a total fail. It wouldn't pump anything including grease.
Should have taken it back but I had taken it apart to see if I could figure out what was wrong with it. Something in it just isn't letting anything through. Trying to put it back together was a full afternoons worth of swearing LOL.
Getting frustrated I ventured back to PA to see if I could find a cheap lever type grease gun to try. Found this in the surplus section for $6.06 and picked up the flex connection for $7.99. This actually worked. You can pour way oil into the bbl and it doesn't leak out at all as long as you hold it vertically upright with connection below. Pump Pump Pump and I had all 4 table/saddle dovetails on the mill flooded with fresh way oil. Now to find someone to 3D print a top cap for me LOL.
Craig
First up was a grease fitting clearing tool I spotted at PA. $7 something + $10 shipping. Was a no go as soon as I had it in hand to look at it.
Second up was this push type grease gun claiming to work with oil @Brent H spotted on Amazon. $28.10 delivered. First negative is that the zerk coupler is nothing more than a cupped surface, no grabbing jaws. It did push oil but when the oil had no where to go, it leaked past the rubber piston into the air chamber behind and leaked like a sieve.
Third up is this GROZ push type grease gun I spotted at BB. $11.54 on sale. This one looked like it had real potential. All metal, a zerk coupler with jaws. Well... it was a total fail. It wouldn't pump anything including grease.
Should have taken it back but I had taken it apart to see if I could figure out what was wrong with it. Something in it just isn't letting anything through. Trying to put it back together was a full afternoons worth of swearing LOL.
Getting frustrated I ventured back to PA to see if I could find a cheap lever type grease gun to try. Found this in the surplus section for $6.06 and picked up the flex connection for $7.99. This actually worked. You can pour way oil into the bbl and it doesn't leak out at all as long as you hold it vertically upright with connection below. Pump Pump Pump and I had all 4 table/saddle dovetails on the mill flooded with fresh way oil. Now to find someone to 3D print a top cap for me LOL.
Craig
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Good idea or bad idea?
I wanted a reference surface perpendicular to my vise jaws so that I could setup my vise using a machinist square off the back face of the table. This is what I did, after dialing in the angle bracket with a TDI (DTI?).
It didn't really accomplish much.... I still have to bump the vice around to get it aligned with the TDI
I wanted a reference surface perpendicular to my vise jaws so that I could setup my vise using a machinist square off the back face of the table. This is what I did, after dialing in the angle bracket with a TDI (DTI?).
It didn't really accomplish much.... I still have to bump the vice around to get it aligned with the TDI
Spindle..
The back edge of the table indicates 0.002 variation over 8"-10", so one would think setting the vise square to that edge should get you at least that close but it doesn't? When I trammed in the angle plate I measured across the face the fixed jaw clamped on.
Just a tad perplexed now...….
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Ok..... There is something funky going on with the registration surfaces I milled
This behaves exactly like what you would expect. Setting it up with a square gets you to within 0.002 over 6" on the fixed jaw.
Need to figure out a means of checking the registration surfaces to vise jaw alignment. Any suggestions?
This behaves exactly like what you would expect. Setting it up with a square gets you to within 0.002 over 6" on the fixed jaw.
Need to figure out a means of checking the registration surfaces to vise jaw alignment. Any suggestions?
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So, I mounted this up today thinking I would give it a test drive.....
And then went totally brain dead as to what to do as a test drive LOL. Kind of spent the afternoon staring at it, and sifting through the scrap bin, over and over again.
I don't think 10" is TOO big, but 8" might have been more appropriate. My X-Axis DRO scale contacts the column before the table does. Plunking a chuck on it might be a different story, but I still have a good 6" more head space over what the image shows.
Suggest a RT test drive project......
And then went totally brain dead as to what to do as a test drive LOL. Kind of spent the afternoon staring at it, and sifting through the scrap bin, over and over again.
I don't think 10" is TOO big, but 8" might have been more appropriate. My X-Axis DRO scale contacts the column before the table does. Plunking a chuck on it might be a different story, but I still have a good 6" more head space over what the image shows.
Suggest a RT test drive project......
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francist
Super User
I tend to use mine a lot for doing things like this — putting flutes or grooves into adjustment handles or lock rings. This one is 6061 aluminum and just plunged with an end mill around the periphery (slightly less than half the diameter of the end mill seems to work nicely both aesthetically as well as for feel)
-frank
-frank
What is that thing? It looks pretty elaborate!!