• Scam Alert. Members are reminded to NOT send money to buy anything. Don't buy things remote and have it shipped - go get it yourself, pay in person, and take your equipment with you. Scammers have burned people on this forum. Urgency, secrecy, excuses, selling for friend, newish members, FUD, are RED FLAGS. A video conference call is not adequate assurance. Face to face interactions are required. Please report suspicions to the forum admins. Stay Safe - anyone can get scammed.

Rebuilding a 10" Standard Modern Utilathe

The original nut is cast iron and I have some high quality cast iron left over from the modifications on the tailstock but you're saying I should use bronze for the final product?

I ordered the cheapie tap from amazon just in case and now that I have 2 viable options I think I may give the jbweld repair a go just to see if it works or doesn't.
 
The original nut is cast iron and I have some high quality cast iron left over from the modifications on the tailstock but you're saying I should use bronze for the final product?

I ordered the cheapie tap from amazon just in case and now that I have 2 viable options I think I may give the jbweld repair a go just to see if it works or doesn't.

In all my life, I have NEVER seen a cast iron nut. I'm not saying that they don't exist, just that I've never seen one. It would also be impossible to impliment a lash adjustment on a cast iron nut.

Are you sure it's not cast bronze?

If I was doing that job, I would make a bronze or brass nut. I would never use cast iron. Bronze and brass are both slippery on steel and both wear faster than steel. Cast iron would not. The last thing you want is a worn leade screw. The nut should be sacrificial. Split nuts allow for some wear. Easier and cheaper to replace a nut instead of a leade screw.
 
The nut is cast iron and although there is some wear in the middle of the lead screw the threads in the nut are sharp and paper thin at the peak of the threads so the nut has taken most of the wear.
The pic below is after a couple of strokes with a hacksaw.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1622.JPG
    IMG_1622.JPG
    1.1 MB · Views: 8
The nut is cast iron and although there is some wear in the middle of the lead screw the threads in the nut are sharp and paper thin at the peak of the threads so the nut has taken most of the wear.

Well well. I'd still make it out of brass or bronze and add an adjustment feature. The adjustment alone is worth doing. A cast iron nut could not take such a feature - it would simply break.

A brass or bronze nut would also reduce what little wear you ARE GETTING on the leade screw.

Ya, my advice is to go bronze or brass. And because the leade screw does have a wee bit of wear, adjust the nut where the leade screw is NOT worn.
 
Back
Top