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Rebuilding a 10" Standard Modern Utilathe

No steel or sheer pins, the gear is attached to the sliding boss with 4 machine screws, the sliding boss is keyed to the shaft so the gear teeth are the weak link.
You can see in these 2 pics how the gear is attached, it is a 37 tooth.

@Brent H, thanks for identifying that gear for me and the other info, I'll get you all those dimensions later today. The OD will be an estimate based on the height of the teeth of the matching gear.
 

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Looking again at Brent's diagram, the #6 gear doesn't appear to look any different than the other steel gears so the phenolic gear could very well be a repair.
 

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As a fellow who frequently repairs farm equipment, this is one of four problems I see all the time. Guys make substandard brass, aluminium, or plastic gears instead of steel, or they use regular bolts instead of grade 5 as shear pins, or they put a bigger fuse in, or they apply insufficient or excessive torque. All four are guaranteed problems in the near future.
 
You asked about the belt- it is

B30 (5L330) You can purchase on Amazon or Canadian Tire etc.

Be careful with cheap belts, I've had some terrible ones from Crappy Tire. If the profile is not very consistent, it's like it the belt gets tighter as a wider section travels over the pulley and you get lots of vibration. Take some calipers and measure the width for consistency when buying it or better still stick to quality brands from an industrial supplier or a link belt.
 
OK Brent so that confirms it, my phenolic gear is a repair, the teeth must have been mash up and someone cut the gear down to accept the new replacement.
So why did you make another double gear unit? The original looks to be in usable condition.
Want to sell it???????
 
I made the gear, shaft and a couple other parts for Matt. Not sure of his handle on here. He has all the original parts and he dropped off the full gearbox so I could make sure it all worked properly. The lower end gear works were very worn on his machine - certainly not in the same condition you have.

I have the 4140 stock and gear cutters. Just need the time. Lathes and mill ready - just me

Perhaps Matt is watching- not sure - will search my links and he maybe able to help?
 
update, stripped down to bare metal, man I hate drive screws, such pain to get them out.
Not really the colour I wanted, thought it would be darker but it will make me clean it more.
I thought I would give the thin plastic wipers a try, felt always seem to collect and hold metal shavings against the ways, dragging them back and forth.
 

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I installed the new bearings so the spindle could go in and I finally get a measurement of how much needs to be removed from the base of the donor tailstock, 1.0185".
I think it makes more sense to remove material from the top of the base so once it is down to the right height all that needs doing is cutting the slot for the side to side locator.
Should I cut it 20 thou deeper than needed so I can shim it up if need be?

It looks like it should be a pretty straight forward job (says the greenhorn), think I can pull this off?
 

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update, stripped down to bare metal, man I hate drive screws, such pain to get them out.
Not really the colour I wanted, thought it would be darker but it will make me clean it more.
I thought I would give the thin plastic wipers a try, felt always seem to collect and hold metal shavings against the ways, dragging them back and forth.
looking great!
 
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