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Rebuilding a 10" Standard Modern Utilathe

The eagle has landed, Brent, it's a thing of beauty.
A couple min. with 1000 grit paper and they're sliding together perfectly.
I doubt a professional machinist could have produced anything better.
Have to see if I can find time tomorrow to get the transmission back together.
I'm in the middle of renovating the kitchen, which I have been promising to do for over a decade, can't let her catch me having fun.
 

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skippyelwell said:
The eagle has landed, Brent, it's a thing of beauty.
A couple min. with 1000 grit paper and they're sliding together perfectly.
I doubt a professional machinist could have produced anything better.
Have to see if I can find time tomorrow to get the transmission back together.
I'm in the middle of renovating the kitchen, which I have been promising to do for over a decade, can't let her catch me having fun.
Click to expand...
"whipped" ;)
 
Brent H said:
@skippyelwell - WOO HOO!! Glad it made it and is getting the shaft!

I purchased a BS-0 dividing head and I am thinking that with a few folks help - @DavidR8 and @Susquatch etc etc I could power rotate it with a stepper motor to make gears using a Hobb. I have one for 12 DP (that is the same as the bull gear in the Utilathe). Would be interesting to make a couple new bull gears.
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Brent check out the build by Andy. The plans and code are free. I also laughed at his lock picking lawyer joke.
 
@djberta - thanks, I had watched his build and figured if I can use a pre-built dividing head and then just worry about the other “small builds” it could greatly speed up the process :) I didn’t know he also provided the plans etc - very cool.
 
I reassembled everything today, nice to have all 6 speeds again, the 2 speeds using the new gears are pretty loud as Brent's gears are 16DP, 20PA as they should be, and the high school made gears they mesh with are 16DP, 14.5PA
It's fine for now, wearing ear muffs is no hardship and at some point in the future when I have acquired the right tooling and expertise, I'll have a go at remaking the high school gears myself.
 
@skippyelwell - if the high-school gears are 14.5 PA you should be able to just mount them on the arbour and run a 16 DP 20° PA cutter through to clean them up. In hindsight I should have ground you a cutter with the gear profile and in theory you could run that on an arbour …. Hmmm - you might be able to do the same thing using the 20° gear tooth profile as a template
 
Now that the SM 10" is up and running fairly well I thought I would go back and try and tighten up some of the tolerances starting with the worm threaded rod on the cross slide.
The cast iron stationary nut is quite worn so I thought I would make a new one, the rod is a left handed 9/16 x 8 tpi ACME thread.

As far as my searching has gone that's a tap that is not made anymore, so now I'm thinking I should scrub the nut until it is surgically clean, pack it full of JBWeld, lightly oil the threaded rod and screw it in and hope that it will release when it is cured.
Do you guys think it's worth a shot?
 

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Now that its up and running, why not single point thread cut it? Its a through bore so dead easy without worry of crashing into the chuck, just need to grind a HSS cutter for it. That way you also get to tweak the fit versus a tap cutting it to whatever size and tolerance it is made to (that does not necessarily match your lead screw).
 
Mike R said:
Now that its up and running, why not single point thread cut it? Its a through bore so dead easy without worry of crashing into the chuck, just need to grind a HSS cutter for it. That way you also get to tweak the fit versus a tap cutting it to whatever size and tolerance it is made to (that does not necessarily match your lead screw).
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I've never done internal threading before, will have to do some major reading up on it.
 
skippyelwell said:
I've never done internal threading before, will have to do some major reading up on it.
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It's just like external threading but with your eyes closed.....

Not really, but that is still a valid way to look at it. If you can outside thread, you can inside thread.

I'd recommend a few practice parts. It isn't as hard as it looks. We can help you get the hang of it. When the dust clears, you will wonder why you thought it was difficult.
 
Susquatch said:
It's just like external threading but with your eyes closed.....

Not really, but that is still a valid way to look at it. If you can outside thread, you can inside thread.

I'd recommend a few practice parts. It isn't as hard as it looks. We can help you get the hang of it. When the dust clears, you will wonder why you thought it was difficult.
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Start with a chunk of Delrin or aluminum. Drill the hole and then learn how to thread. When you finally have a handle on it then take the nice piece of bronze and go for it.

Remember, any skill be it sports or music or even machining takes practice, practice and more practice.
 
jcdammeyer said:
Start with a chunk of Delrin or aluminum. Drill the hole and then learn how to thread. When you finally have a handle on it then take the nice piece of bronze and go for it.
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Ya, for God sakes, don't practice on Bronze! Even Brass would be better.

I think the biggest learning curve on inside single pointing is the tool grind. Clearances have to be much greater. I used to start with a scale drawing to get the angles right. The old eyeball works, but only after a few failures. Also, I often set the tool a tiny skootch high which also gives a skootch more clearance.

The other learning curve is that all the carriage movements are reversed.

I believe you are doing a through hole so no crash worries, but threading in reverse is always a great way to avoid crashes in a blind hole. Some guys just thread in reverse regardless.

Another trick when inside threading (or outside threading to a shoulder) is to stop the lathe early and then turn the chuck manually using the chuck wrench as a handle. I have a chuck wrench that I use for that purpose that I removed the T-Handle from. Works great 1/4 turn at a time. This works because the spindle gears drive the leade screw.

Give er a shot and then ask questions.
 
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