Need Some 8" Round Stock Cut - Calgary

[Tom O]

Easy fix I use a magnetic broom with the pull to release handle they work a charm but the always magnetic ones are a pain though. PA has them on sale every once in a while.

 

[YYCHM]

Getting close now.....



This is where I screwed up last time. I need to open that slot up 3/16" or less. Enough for today.

 

[Janger]

looking good Craig!

 

[historicalarms]

get a big cardboard box. cut one side out for access and the 3 remaining side "sort of control" the scarf ricochet.

 

[Janger]

get a big cardboard box. cut one side out for access and the 3 remaining side "sort of control" the scarf ricochet.

I grabbed a big welding magnet and a piece of sheet metal roughly 12"x12" and use that as a movable shield stuck to the table.

 

[YYCHM]

Now what to do????



This is so close to the tolerance I was hoping for that I'm afraid to put it in the mill for one more pass.

 

[Brent H]

Craig- do not put it in the mill - put some 1000 grit on a straight edge or similar and just clean it up - break edges etc and check fits

 

[PeterT]

Actually check the channel for squareness too. Cast iron shouldn't stress relieve much if any (as in the lips came in a couple thou). But kind of depends on the material, heat aging, material removal profile etc.

 

[Brent H]

Hey Craig,

there is also a relief in the middle of the block that retains oil and ensures good face contact. I posted the block I made here: https://canadianhobbymetalworkers.c...-a-10-ld-utilathe-standard-modern.1475/page-5

 

[YYCHM]

Ya, I have been wondering about that detail.

What's the over all dims of your shoe?

 

[Brent H]

I can measure it up tomorrow with the corresponding dimension of the bar it rides on. I screwed up the bolt hole /
It is 0.050” off centre due to not compensating for the edge finder - ugh! Works fine though.

 

[YYCHM]

I can measure it up tomorrow with the corresponding dimension of the bar it rides on. I screwed up the bolt hole /
It is 0.050” off centre due to not compensating for the edge finder - ugh! Works fine though.

Should be the same size as my bar. Yours came from a 9" Utilathe. Just curios as neither looks like the image in the manual, which looks to be a casting with machined surfaces.

 

[Brent H]

I took my “block” from a 16” utilathe that had the block at work. Just “guessing” on the scale -but seemed to work well. Will send you off measures

 

[Brent H]

Some dimensions- just with the verniers







looks like 1.5 thou clearance on the bar - no movement so may be a bit tighter than that - slides nice.

 

[YYCHM]

Hmmmm…. bar is a little bigger. How long is it? Mine is only 12".

 

[Brent H]

Hahaha!!

about the same.

the bar was pretty rusty when I got it so perhaps some wastage. What width are you looking at?

 

[YYCHM]

My bar appears to be 1.186" wide by 0.693" high. I'm starting to think I don't know how to measure things properly. Neither of those values makes sense even in metric?

 

[RobinHood]

IIRC, the bar was ground. So if they cast the slider block and machine the U-shape to 1 3/16”(1.1875) and take nominal cold rolled 1 3/16” bar (which would measure a bit oversize) and surface grind the bar, they could end up with a bar width of 1.186” for a nice sliding fit in the block.

 

[Brent H]

There will be some clearance needed once the block is bolted to the cross slide extension- the slot in the block has the side grooves for oil/gunk.

my bar measures 1.374 x 12.000 and 0.694 thick

here are the block dimensions:


It is a snug fit under the cross slide extension:

 

[Dusty]

Hi Craig, following your thread with lots of interest nice work however, somewhere along the way I missed out on what your project is.

From your latest photos I assume you're making a taper turning attachment for you lathe so you can reproduce tapers?

Thanks for hitting the like button, appreciate that.