Need Some 8" Round Stock Cut - Calgary

[YYCHM]

I have a line on some 8" round cast iron that I need a 2" slice cut from. The piece is 10" long and weighs in at 140 lbs. Might need an engine hoist to unload/load it. If you have the equipment to do this please PM me. Looking to do this mid Sept.

Thanks,

Craig

 

[Tom O]

Try a machine shop or you could even Call metal supermarket they would probably cut it for a fee.

 

[YYCHM]

Try a machine shop or you could even Call metal supermarket they would probably cut it for a fee.

I was thinking MSM might be an option. I'll have to check what they would charge. I'll need three cuts in order to get a 8" slice down to something 6" wide, then I can do the rest on my bandsaw.

 

[Brent H]

See what it takes to cut that cast iron - our 7" on the ship wouldn't touch it without a lot of force, a special hard material chop saw blade took me 1/2 hour for 2". The boys at the base with the hydraulic "set it and forget it" band saw was the answer.... it is hard stuff to saw.

 

[YYCHM]

See what it takes to cut that cast iron - our 7" on the ship wouldn't touch it without a lot of force, a special hard material chop saw blade took me 1/2 hour for 2". The boys at the base with the hydraulic "set it and forget it" band saw was the answer.... it is hard stuff to saw.

Really??? It drills, taps and machines easy enough.

 

[YYCHM]

MSM doesn't cut externally sourced materials. Suggested FUSE33 Makerspace as a potential option.

 

[Tom O]

That’s down alongside of Coop on 17 ave SE on the gas station side.

 

[YYCHM]

Problem solved. @Tom Kitta had some 2-5/8" round CI that's manageable for me.

Thanks Tom!

And thank you to @Janger and @RobinHood for offering to cut down @johnnielsen 's chunk of 8" round for me.

Thanks for your offers to help with this project guys! I'm good to go for now

Craig

 

[YYCHM]

This piece of CI is almost the perfect size, and it cut real nice in the bandsaw......

I have to knock close to 3/4" off the sides though....

Is this a viable option or is it asking for trouble?

Also, what kind of end mill to use for overall shaping? Fly cutter, 2 flt, 4 flt? What size?

I need to take this down to 3-1/4" X 2" X 1-1/8"

 

[PeterT]

I'd clamp it between the flat ends if you can, much more contact area than the 2 tangent lines of the diameter

 

[Tom Kitta]

Yeah I make a square out of round that way in the band saw but it may be inaccurate - so be very careful - you do not want to mess things up by cutting too much.

If you need large piece cut I also have a large band-saw. Cast cuts very quick and smooth in the band saw - same for milling operations. Main issue is the dirt.

 

[YYCHM]

I'd clamp it between the flat ends if you can, much more contact area than the 2 tangent lines of the diameter

I figured the blade would tend to slide/glance away from where you intended the cut to be doing it that way?

 

[PeterT]

Yeah, that's a risk too now that I see how little of the sidewall you are removing. Maybe upright like you have it is better from that perspective as long as it doesn't slip. Choose your poison I guess. I would do some felt pen layout lines so you can judge how the cut is proceeding. And if there is a skinny side, maybe do that one first so you still have material.

 

[historicalarms]

I had two bars I wanted flat on two parallel sides one time. I did that sideways cut peter suggested in my saw on the first bar but it was a slow process to get the cut started, but after you get a small slice started the blade will just follow that slot the same as a longitudinal cut.

You have to clamp the piece in the saw then while holding the saw bar up, start the saw. now very slowly manually let the saw down to just lightly start the cut...more or less it just wears a small notch in the work to begin with. It worked but for the second bar I found a much better way to start the cut.
I pinched the bare in the mill vise and just quickly cut two parallel notches down the bar sides with a endmill...now when I clamped it in the saw vise with the notches straight upright, I had a perfect flat spot for the blade to bite in.

 

[PeterT]

You described it well. That's exactly what I've had to do, kind of baby the initial blade entering so it doesn't glance off. The less rigid and/or narrower the blade is, the more chance it can go off track. Upright position might present a better surface for the blade to enter the cut, but there still are no guarantee of drift as it proceeds on the typical little saws. Hence the suggestion for layout lines for insurance.

 

[Janger]

I certainly found cutting was a lot more reliable, straight, when I upgraded to a saw with a 0.75" wide blade.

 

[johnnielsen]

I use a piece of wood pressed against the blade at point of first contact to ensure the blade doesn't deflect.

 

[YYCHM]

I chickened out of the bandsaw approach and went this route......

Man.... I have a long ways to go LOL. There is swarf from one end of the shop to the other.

Hmmm.... maybe after I have a rectangular piece roughed out I can employ the saw? This is going to end up being a 1/2" too tall.

 

[Janger]

Do you have power feed Craig?

 

[YYCHM]

Do you have power feed Craig?

Nope

Phew..... that was a bit of a slog. I'm going to be finding swarf around here for weeks now LOL.