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Name this shop TOOL

it also helps to grind a punch the proper way.
How do I do that? There's a big step between the tiny dot I make with a carbide scriber point, and the smallest punch I have. And the 'automatic' center punches give me variable results. So any hints would be appreciated.
Finding the cheapest version of an optical punch that works well is my next challenge. It looks like the HHIP one on amazon is the same as the Fowler and the Grizzly and cheaper than those two. I'm pretty sure they come from China, but finding specific items on AliExpress/Banggood can be a challenge as my search terms don't seem to translate well sometimes. I get some pretty strange suggestions when I search for some tools or shop supplies on those sites. And paying 100% and more markup to a reseller like Accusize 'rubs me the wrong way'. It's too bad that 'the new LeeValley' has discontinued so many useful items like the optical center punch and the 'ThreadID' box.
 
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Took this this morning, it does not do it justice as the camera can not focus on the image in the lens, but it does show the light getting theough and the line white line blur underneath and the black blur is the reference line, second photo is the punch after proper alignment.
Thanks, Degen. Those pics show things really clearly, for me.
 
Sounds good to me. You forgot to add to your list: "Spend $2-10K for a mill with DRO, and find a place to put it, and get it moved to that place...." :)

Ya, prolly a lot cheaper to put a DRO on my drill press!

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But just to put it all into perspective, everyone starts somewhere. My journey started with the grinder you see behind the drill press. About 55 years ago, an old machinist told me that a bench grinder was the most useful power tool I could buy and that I'd use it more than any other tool I would ever own. 55 years later I know he was right. The old beaver floor stand drill press featured in the photo was my very first mill. It is one of the few drill presses around that had side thrust bearings on the quill and a threaded collar to keep the chuck on. I added an x/y table and it worked for me for 15 years or so before I got the mill / drill which lasted me another 10 years.

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I've only had a Bridgeport Clone knee mill for a year or so now.

My machining journey started a long long time ago, but I believe we are similar in age. So I'm sure that you will agree that it doesn't really matter when you start, it's best to enjoy the journey and resist the temptation to turn it into a destination.
 
Ya, prolly a lot cheaper to put a DRO on my drill press!
I've thought the same but it's quite a bit of money for something I'd likely tire of in a year or so. I have the same thought about the bottom of the line Sieg milling machine that BusyBee/Grizzly/LMS etc sells. It's a pity that milling machines don't start at the same prices as 7x lathes. :)
 
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