Some time context.....
Shaper was acquired in late August. Pictures to this point (December 3rd) represent the progress.
Shaper was acquired in late August. Pictures to this point (December 3rd) represent the progress.
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Mystery Shaper rejuvenation
- Thread starter kevin.decelles
- Start date
Heat-treating the prawls
I dusted off the kiln (thx @Johnwa ) which will be used to heat treat these prawls. Overkill (I could do a lot of them) but good excuse to convince the better half that I need a kiln. I use a simple PID w/SSR to manage temperature. For tempering I'll either use a toaster oven (thx @Janger ) or my other kiln (preheated and ready)
I fired it to 800C the other night -- ready to go this weekend.
TBD: During/after pics
I dusted off the kiln (thx @Johnwa ) which will be used to heat treat these prawls. Overkill (I could do a lot of them) but good excuse to convince the better half that I need a kiln. I use a simple PID w/SSR to manage temperature. For tempering I'll either use a toaster oven (thx @Janger ) or my other kiln (preheated and ready)
I fired it to 800C the other night -- ready to go this weekend.
TBD: During/after pics
Motor?
The motor on the shaper was 'free' and the pulley turned, but the bearings will likely need to be replaced. There is no motor plate, but the plug was wired for 220V 3ph. A manufacturers tag plate is there, but it is all but not-readable except for Odense Denmark. I took the electrical cover off, it was packed with crud and rust. so I cleaned that out.
I pulled the end covers off, wiped off the spider webs, blew out the dead bugs and dirt, then degreased everything (using Paslode corldess nailer degreaser -- i'm a fan now). I didn't see anything wrong so put it back together, greased the bearings and fired it up with a 7.5HP RPC (thx @RobinHood )
A little loud.... but she runs. Let is run for 45 minutes, motor is cool (neigh - cold) to the touch.
The motor on the shaper was 'free' and the pulley turned, but the bearings will likely need to be replaced. There is no motor plate, but the plug was wired for 220V 3ph. A manufacturers tag plate is there, but it is all but not-readable except for Odense Denmark. I took the electrical cover off, it was packed with crud and rust. so I cleaned that out.
I pulled the end covers off, wiped off the spider webs, blew out the dead bugs and dirt, then degreased everything (using Paslode corldess nailer degreaser -- i'm a fan now). I didn't see anything wrong so put it back together, greased the bearings and fired it up with a 7.5HP RPC (thx @RobinHood )
A little loud.... but she runs. Let is run for 45 minutes, motor is cool (neigh - cold) to the touch.
Great pics and write up. I have a question though, what's with all the unused floor space we see in some pics?
That's so he has room to dance when a hot chip or a weld blob strikes a high note!
historicalarms
Ultra Member
Could that tar substance be cosmoline poured on to try to protect the thing eons ago and most of it 'weathered off" over time?
Not sure about roofing tar but if it is asphalt tar/tack oil, the absolute best to remove that stuff is diesel fuel to remove build-up of thick spots and then a small bit of regular gas to take the remaining stain off. Just spray the diesel on and watch the tar start to run off. Every person ever employed in the paving industry is never more than an arms length away from a hand weed sprayer filled with diesel.
Not sure about roofing tar but if it is asphalt tar/tack oil, the absolute best to remove that stuff is diesel fuel to remove build-up of thick spots and then a small bit of regular gas to take the remaining stain off. Just spray the diesel on and watch the tar start to run off. Every person ever employed in the paving industry is never more than an arms length away from a hand weed sprayer filled with diesel.
BMW Rider
Super User
Those commercial baking pans are much like the ones I have for use as parts trays.
Dabbler
ersatz engineer
@historicalarms Since we know the original owner and the last one, we can surmise it was because he was doing a DIY roof patch on the little shelter next to the shaper, and spilled some plastic cement on it...
Def not cosmoline, that's for sure!
Def not cosmoline, that's for sure!
Found those at a garage sale. Super handy.
BMW Rider
Super User
Mine have been used for parts trays for decades, I got them from my Dad's shop after he shut it down, he got them from my Uncle with a bunch of other stuff from his shop. I ran across some info online a while back that those pans are worth some pretty good prices in good condition. Mine are way past that and like you said, are super handy.
ok, a month later...... still working it daily. Shaper is completely torn down, no more assemblies to remove.
It's been a non-stop process of remove, degrease, de-rust, repeat.
some pictures:
Ram after de-rusting
Apron removed
Bull gear removed
Top of apron BEFORE removal
Apron disassembled
Yoke/bull-gear BEFORE removal
Yoke after about 4 hours of figuring out how to get it out of there
It's been a non-stop process of remove, degrease, de-rust, repeat.
some pictures:
Ram after de-rusting
Apron removed
Bull gear removed
Top of apron BEFORE removal
Apron disassembled
Yoke/bull-gear BEFORE removal
Yoke after about 4 hours of figuring out how to get it out of there
More pics....
Just a shell of its former self
Separating the base from the cage
After some back and forth with @Brent H about HVLP painting, a first look at the chosen color. Yeah, I'm a sucker for 'russian-implement-green' as I call it.
Main drive gear. Believe it or not, no ball bearings. All bronze bushing
A peak at some of the drive train after de-rusting/cleanup.
de-rusting the table. Not enough product to immerse it, so painfully slow '6-sided-dice' approach
Switched to tupperware bin for wide-sides. You can see the results on the side facing up in this pic.
Transmission on the bench
Just a shell of its former self
Separating the base from the cage
After some back and forth with @Brent H about HVLP painting, a first look at the chosen color. Yeah, I'm a sucker for 'russian-implement-green' as I call it.
Main drive gear. Believe it or not, no ball bearings. All bronze bushing
A peak at some of the drive train after de-rusting/cleanup.
de-rusting the table. Not enough product to immerse it, so painfully slow '6-sided-dice' approach
Switched to tupperware bin for wide-sides. You can see the results on the side facing up in this pic.
Transmission on the bench
Surface Grinder.
So the main casting is one piece and includes the top V-ways as well as the ways for the main apron. Both are heavily rusted. I figure the casting is 600-800 pounds. Even a 55 gallon drum of product won't immerse this bad-boy, so I continued to use my resizeable soaking coffin assembly.
Step 1, invert the casting and dip the v-ways.
Step 2, rotate 90-degrees and soak the front ways. The threaded rod I'm using to lift this is a multi-purpose tool, last seen pulling the pistons out of my ford tractor.
So is it working? You tell me, a pic of the v-ways from the back side while soaking the front-ways
Looking pretty good.
Time for a break
Step 1, invert the casting and dip the v-ways.
Step 2, rotate 90-degrees and soak the front ways. The threaded rod I'm using to lift this is a multi-purpose tool, last seen pulling the pistons out of my ford tractor.
So is it working? You tell me, a pic of the v-ways from the back side while soaking the front-ways
Looking pretty good.
Time for a break