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JCDammeyer's 42 projects

This one was first engraved with the ¼” round router bit through clear packing tape. Then sprayed with red paint. Once the paint was dry the grooves were filled with clear water based varathane. This morning, packing tape removed and run over the jointer to clean up surface and any red areas that bled through. Finally a coat of combination stain/varathane.

Doesn’t look too bad. I like the idea of sealer before even before doing the red. Might try that next using shellac. Then after red dry and tape removed shellac everything. Might not need to use the jointer.

John
 

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This is the paint I used a few years ago, colour matched to the mill. It's what I used to paint the table covers which now more than 24 hours later still hasn't really dried hard. It's sticky and will take a fingerprint impression.
Does Polyurethane Enamel age in a way that it won't harden?
 

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    MatchedPaint.jpg
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This is the paint I used a few years ago, colour matched to the mill. It's what I used to paint the table covers which now more than 24 hours later still hasn't really dried hard. It's sticky and will take a fingerprint impression.
Does Polyurethane Enamel age in a way that it won't harden?
From what I have read many of the polyurethane paints cure slowly.

I decided to try this one, it's supposed to cure quickly, 15 minutes to the touch. I will let you know if I ever find some time to use it.

310F3580-1EE3-4443-A58A-B28E5F1FC48E.jpeg
 
Does Polyurethane Enamel age in a way that it won't harden?

I believe so. As you probably know, it doesn't dry, it cures. That curing is affected by the presence of oxygen and takes longer as the paint gets older. So if the paint can was ever opened, oxygen will get inside and start affecting the paint's long term stability.
 
I used to use polyurethane paints for it's durable finish. my typical brush on cure times ranged from 1 week to 2 weeks. moisture in the air seems to slow curing. Don't apply heat to hasten the process: it forms a crust that prevents full depth curing for months. You know how I know!!
 
Since I'm watching paint dry I thought I'd leave the covers out of the way and get after another one of the 42 projects.

When I switched over to the AC Servo from the Brushed DC Servo I needed a new motor mount with a smaller centre hole and motor mounting holes. At the time I grabbed a piece of scrap with full intentions of eventually casting a new plate the right thickness (1/2" instead of 3/8"). The scrap plate was about an inch too wide but it worked and I could continue.

Well 4 years have gone by and I'm printing new covers because the existing one cracked so I thought, time to narrow down the plate so the 3D printed cover will fit.

This demonstrates why sometimes a CNC conversion, that still makes it possible to install the original handle for manual movement, is really handy. Although I guess I could also drill a hole in the face of the driven pulley and install a handle when needed.
BuildingNewMotorPlate.jpg

Andway, after sawing off the waste part on the bandsaw (a little too close to the line) I clamped it in the vice and used the X axis as a simple manual mill power feed with G-Code line G1 X7.7 F5
The depth of cut was tweaking in with the MPG but I could have also used the quill.

CuttingNewYMotorPlate.jpg

Now just to print the third piece after I tweak a few dimensions plus design a cover for the turning bolt.
MidSectionCoverFits.jpg
Anyway. CNC is operational again.
 
There we go. The Y Axis parts are all printed. Bottom two are glued. Time to sand and prime.
AllPartsPrinted.jpg

The Z axis covers on the left were printed over 4 years ago on the old 3D printer. Quality from the Bambu is so much nicer.
 
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