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Grinder for sharpening metalworking and woodworking tools- low speed or normal speed?

It is interesting that the milkman was the last of the door to door deliveries (in Australia where I grew up). It never occurred to me that since we drove to the store for everything else I was seeing the end of an era…

(I seem to always think of Benny Hill when I think of milk delivery: “…Would you like it pasteurized because pasteurized is best. Earnie I’ll be happy if it comes up to my chest. And that tickled old Earnie…”)
 
My grandpa was a Milkman, witha team of horses, delivering milk daily to over 400 homes in Hamilton, Ontario
Last Fall we were hiking the escarpment trail near Mohawk Road in Hamilton.
The trail overlooks the 403 Highway and Dundas, Ontario.
There is a plaque there that tells of the Brantford to Hamilton ‘electric’ railroad that operated from 1905 to 1940.
Who knew ?
 
Last Fall we were hiking the escarpment trail near Mohawk Road in Hamilton.
The trail overlooks the 403 Highway and Dundas, Ontario.
There is a plaque there that tells of the Brantford to Hamilton ‘electric’ railroad that operated from 1905 to 1940.
Who knew ?
die hard rail enthusiasts like me.

I used to be member of halton country radial RR and learned to drive the street cars...
 
Grand Parents on my Father's side owned "Wheat city Dairy" in Brandon, MB until it was bought out in the 1950's. My Parents moved to Regina 1957 or so, stayed in the Dairy business. Silverwoods Dairy. My parents "adopted" one of the old Milkmen from work, gave him a room in our basement. IIRC, he was the last in the City operating a horse drawn milk wagon. Took me out on his route one day, big blocks of ice in the wagon to keep the milk, cream etc. cold.
 
Along with my clamp and ruler fetish, I appear to be developing a grinder fetish… I mean I have two 6” grinders already…

Anyway, I’m looking for an 8” grinder that has dust collection ports and which I’ll also to set up nice grinding rest on (I’ve purchased the eccentric engineering one).

If it’s feasible, I’ll likely use it for sharpening both metalworking tools and for regrinding the primary bevel on woodworking tools. (Regularly dipping woodworking tools in water to cool them down doesn’t seem like a big hassle for me).
I’d probably set it up with an Aluminum Oxide wheel for HSS tool bits and a Silicon Cabride wheel for Tungsten Carbide tool bits.

If you were making a similar purchase, would you look at a low speed grinder, or stick with regular speed?

Thanks in advance for your advice.
I just posted over at "Belt Sander - Which Belts To Get?" pictures of my Viel S5 1" x 42" belt sander modified with a PSI Industries VFD motor. I run a sharpening business. My mentor, Vadim of KniferGrinders.com.au in Australia (who just suddenly passed away at age 57), did a series of 10 YouTube videos on measuring and then controlling overheating from grinding. :


He used heat-triggering temperature lacquers for the measuring temperatures (Video 2 of 10)

Some interesting findings:

1) Lower grit belts heat up the edge less, because of the air space between the belt and the ground surface.
2) That's why the Work Sharp Ken Onion overheats with their 1,000 grit belt:
3) Heat can be controlled using a honing coolant.
4) If heat is not controlled, Rockwell C hardness can easily drop by 5 units.

I'm currently modifying a Toycen Tradesman T8 grinder (which is how/why I got into light machining). The Tradesman has a VFD. So far, running at 600 rpm, I do not have to use any honing coolant.
 
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I just posted over at "Belt Sander - Which Belts To Get?" pictures of my Viel S5 1" x 42" belt sander modified with a PSI Industries VFD motor. I run a sharpening business. My mentor, Vadim of KniferGrinders.com.au in Australia (who just suddenly passed away at age 57), did a series of 10 YouTube videos on measuring and then controlling overheating from grinding. :


He used heat-triggering temperature lacquers for the measuring temperatures (Video 2 of 10)

Some interesting findings:

1) Lower grit belts heat up the edge less, because of the air space between the belt and the ground surface.
2) That's why the Work Sharp Ken Onion overheats with their 1,000 grit belt:
3) Heat can be controlled using a honing coolant.
4) If heat is not controlled, Rockwell C hardness can easily drop by 5 units.

I'm currently modifying a Toycen Tradesman T8 grinder (which is how/why I got into light machining). The Tradesman has a VFD. So far, running at 600 rpm, I do not have to use any honing coolant.
Very interesting, thanks for reply.
 
free hand, messed up many tool bits until I got the hang of it. I mostly use carbide inserts for lathe work, so most tool sharpening is done for drill bits, HSS parting tools, and HSS boring bits. I tend to go 80 or 120 grit belts, and if I need super-sharp I rough on the belt sander, finish on an oil stone, and diamond bonding stick.
@Blouin55 and anyone else interested in freehand grinding should look at Harold Hall's website. Not only did Harold make some simple jigs for offhand grinding end mills he designed more complex tools you can built to make a 6" grinding wheel very useful

Sharpening an End Mill using an off hand grinder, Harold Hall

You know Harold, he wrote the workshop practice series book on tool and cutter sharpening
 
@StevSmar : how crazy do you want to get with your Dust collection? I made mine using a 3HP busy bee and concept plans from the internet:
753565D2-EB44-4BF7-B43E-19578B59FDE5.jpeg


It was a great project and works extremely well. I have the plans for the cyclone if you are interested.
 
1) Lower grit belts heat up the edge less, because of the air space between the belt and the ground surface.
2) That's why the Work Sharp Ken Onion overheats with their 1,000 grit belt:
3) Heat can be controlled using a honing coolant.
4) If heat is not controlled, Rockwell C hardness can easily drop by 5 units.
@chip4charlie I see you have a soft spot for Tormek's LOL. Just curious since you appear to be heavy into this subject. With a Tormek, is there any reason to have a belt sander specifically for sharpening? Maybe I should qualify - for knife sharpening? I can see larger shears etc. would benefit from belt. After many hours of Tormek internet grazing, I've seen some nice work done restoring completely worn/bad/damaged blade geometry up to surgery sharp. From my understanding the slow sped & water cool is supposed to be a big part of it, but my point is it doesn't seem to take a back seat to basic angle forming (with the right wheel).
3 - Tormek T7 Wet Sharpeners
1 - Tormek T8 Wet Sharpener



BTW, was this the same fellow you mentioned who recently passed away?

 
…how crazy do you want to get with your Dust collection? I made mine using a 3HP busy bee and concept plans from the internet..
That looks great!!! I’ve been thinking about it more seriously since I got complaints from my wife about using linseed oil for finishing wood…

I think I should look at two separate systems:
- dust collection for woodworking tools (just as noisy as woodworking tools….)
- a dedicated ventilation fan to remove smoke from cutting tools and stinky things… Likely just a good quality exhaust fan with ducts to above my workbench, lathe and future(?) mill.
It was a great project and works extremely well. I have the plans for the cyclone if you are interested.
That’s great it works well.
My current top choice for dust collection is the Rikon:
Rikon 1 hp Wall-Mount Dust Collector (Model 60-101)
I don’t think I have room for a cyclone and I’m not using things like a planer or jointer so am not making huge amounts of chips.
 
@StevSmar : how crazy do you want to get with your Dust collection? I made mine using a 3HP busy bee and concept plans from the internet:
View attachment 20892

It was a great project and works extremely well. I have the plans for the cyclone if you are interested.
Hey Brent,
Is that a garage door guide ?
I guess you can blow the snow off your car with the exhaust air !!
 
@chip4charlie I see you have a soft spot for Tormek's LOL. Just curious since you appear to be heavy into this subject. With a Tormek, is there any reason to have a belt sander specifically for sharpening? Maybe I should qualify - for knife sharpening? I can see larger shears etc. would benefit from belt. After many hours of Tormek internet grazing, I've seen some nice work done restoring completely worn/bad/damaged blade geometry up to surgery sharp. From my understanding the slow sped & water cool is supposed to be a big part of it, but my point is it doesn't seem to take a back seat to basic angle forming (with the right wheel).
3 - Tormek T7 Wet Sharpeners
1 - Tormek T8 Wet Sharpener



BTW, was this the same fellow you mentioned who recently passed away?

Not a soft spot, it's just that it's the best machine available, with a challenger only recently available (the Toycen Tradesman Edge sharpeners workstation).

However, a belt sander does a few things better than a Tormek:
1) straighten out a knife edge that has a dip ("swale") from overuse. The Viel S5 can be placed flat on a table and the knife edge then is placed on the (now horizontal) belt backing plate.
2)Re-bevelling the now-straightened edge. Official Tormek stones only go down to 220 grit - too slow for commercial sharpening. I usually use a 120 grit belt.
3) Grinding down the safety bolsters on German style knifes - Henckels, Wusthof, etc.
4) Garden pruners and loppers on the back of the S5, where there is no support for the belt
5) Garden shears and kitchen scissors with the Viel scissors jig. The Tormek scissors jig does NOT work well at all. (If you get a S5, get this and sharpen your spouse's scissors. This considerably increases the WAF (Wife Acceptance Factor) of the S5...)
6) Straight lawnmower blades - because of large material removal, can use 40 and 80 grit belts.

The Tormek is great, but for most things it's too slow. The grinding wheel rotates at 110 rpm. I've mechanically sped up three of my machines to run at 154 rpm. I have 80 and 160 grit CBN stones from KnifeGrinders in Australia (yes, that's the fellow who recently passed away). But, still too slow.

IMHO, the two leading sharpening authorities are:

1) Knives: Vadim from KnifeGrinders dot com dot au. He figured out how to sharpen a kitchen knife to sharper than a double edge razor blade (BESS = 50), then generously shared his methodology and protocols. I highly recommend his book, "Knife Deburring - Science Behind the Lasting Razor Edge". It's $9 to download the PDF from his website: http://knifegrinders.com.au/11Shop.htm

Or, you can order a printed copy from Amazon Canada for $25.37 (printed in Coburn, Ontario!) Vadim's research is now used by over 700 commercial sharpeners in 66 countries.

2) Jeff Toycen of Cuttermasters in Ottawa. For sharpening drill, end mill, and tool cutters Jeff's machines are unmatched. In the 1970's he landed a contract to sharpen 100,000 + bits for Boeing Canada. Not satisfied with what was then available, he designed his own machine and wheels. I'm now modifying a Tradesman T8 to work with Vadim's grinding software - essentially marrying the best with the best : )
 
@LenVW : yep that is a door, it has only opened about 20 times in its 15 year life. It is “there” in case a big move is necessary- like when the fork truck parked my mill or when I had cabinets to big to go out the regular door. You couldn’t fit a car in the shop - maybe the nose - LOL. Insulated door and pressed shut by tools pushed up to it and then c-clamped to prevent anyone opening it. It would be sweet if I could use the blower to clear the snow though - winter sucks….(pun intended) LOL
 
On the subject of sharpening- ugh- the stuff ….. two bench grinders, a wet wheel (tormac knock off), a 4” belt sander with side disk and a 1” belt sander, the Lee valley wet stone system, lots of hand stones of different grades and a No. 2 Cincinnati tool grinder/sharpener with a cylindrical grinding attachment, gear sharpening attachments etc and “should” set it up to do up to 16” planer knives.

One bench grinder, belt sander and the Cincinnati in one shop area and the other belt sander, bench grinder and wet sharpening stuff in the wood working shop area.

The objective is to get the Cincinnati set up and then do all my router bits, end mills, gear cutters, etc etc and then just have it set for doing lathe tools in general. Once or twice a year do another big sharpening.
 
The snake oil guy literally sold snake oil to idiots. He also sold ointments, salves, extracts, boiled mushrooms, hair grease and all the stuff you would get at a naturpath joint today.

That's not what they were really selling...its like Charles Revson's (founder of Revlon) famous line ,"In the factory, we make cosmetics. In the drugstore, we sell hope". :"D
 
That's not what they were really selling...its like Charles Revson's (founder of Revlon) famous line ,"In the factory, we make cosmetics. In the drugstore, we sell hope". :"D

Hope aka botulism toxin

I deliberately picked a spouse who never wears cosmetics, because beauty is a state of mind, not a spackled and deadened face
 
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