Gingery Shaper Resurrection

[RobinHood]

I would turn a nice fitting slug of steel for the bore. Use the set-screw to secure the slug. Use a regular drill of correct size and drill a hole with the center right at the intersection of the sprocket ID line and the slug OD line. Remove the slug. Use square file to file out the rest of the key way. Or use the mill or lathe with a cutting tool (as has been suggested above) to square the key way. With the drill removing the bulk of the material, the other tools should have a relatively easy time to finish it off.

 

[YYCHM]

I would turn a nice fitting slug of steel for the bore. Use the set-screw to secure the slug. Use a regular drill of correct size and drill a hole with the center right at the intersection of the sprocket ID line and the slug OD line. Remove the slug. Use square file to file out the rest of the key way. Or use the mill or lathe with a cutting tool (as has been suggested above) to square the key way. With the drill removing the bulk of the material, the other tools should have a relatively easy time to finish it off.

Brilliant That solves the drilling problem. Thanks!!

 

[Tom O]

I have a set of woodruff cutters if you need them.

 

[YYCHM]

Well, didn't get to far with the drilling......

The drill bit wanted to wander toward the softer plug material. I'm thinking this sprocket is hardened. I quit before I broke my drill bit, you could see the bit bending over. As a last resort I tried plunging with a 1/8" 2 flute end mill. Broke the end mill in very short order.

Guess flats it's going to be after all...

 

[RobinHood]

If it is hard, then you would have struggled with a HSS slotting tool as well.

What size are you going for? I may have the same size in carbide end mill that we could have a go at it with if you want.

 

[kevin.decelles]

Thank-you for answering my wife's question as to why I need two shapers. (So #2 can fix #1)

I'll be in the shop tomorrow, you could pop out to see if the Southbend Shaper could cut that?

 

[YYCHM]

If it is hard, then you would have struggled with a HSS slotting tool as well.

I had tested the hub with a file and it didn't seem all that hard but my drill bit and HSS endmill sure didn't like it?

 

[YYCHM]

Thank-you for answering my wife's question as to why I need two shapers. (So #2 can fix #1)

Funny the whole time I was putzn with this I was thinking this is a job for a shaper

 

[YYCHM]

@RobinHood , @kevin.decelles thanks for the offers. If the flats give out I'll be re-visiting the situation as for now it's all back together and the pulleys are turning a lot truer now.

 

[historicalarms]

In my quest to eliminate vibration, I decided to make a new sprocket drive shaft...

View attachment 13914

The original is a tad too short to fully support a 4 sheave pulley, hence the pulley was wobbling.

View attachment 13915

Could not find any decent 5/8" stock at Rona or Lowes. The pieces they had weren't anywhere near straight and looked like they had been dipped in acid, so I turned the new shaft from 3/4" SS I had. I nailed the dimensions 5/8" and 1/2". In fact I had to finish the 1/2" end with emery cloth in order for the drive sprocket to seat.

View attachment 13916

View attachment 13917

This is the drive sprocket. It really could use a 1/8" key rather than relying on the two tiny set screws set on flats that is the current implementation. Can't get my head around why it doesn't have a keyway in the first place unless it was meant to be welded on a shaft.

In any event I'm looking for suggestions as to how I can cut a keyway in it. I can't picture side milling with a 1/8" end mill working nor can I a picture a 1/8" drill bit doing the trick either. A hack saw blade won't fit in the center hole.

An ideas?

Farmer fix #-whatever it is up to now- Craig is there clearance on either side of the gear for a $4 PA "already slotted" pully flange to be welded to it. Slot your shaft to coincide with flange position and your away to the races.
Second way if no side clearance is avail., could be to reduce shaft dia by 3/16 or so and slot it. Now build a sleeve to snugly fit both gear I.D and shaft O.D. ... now slot the sleeve to accommodate your key size of choice and weld it to the gear at both ends ....should "slide-n-drive" now.

 

[YotaBota]

Well, didn't get to far with the drilling......

View attachment 13926

The drill bit wanted to wander toward the softer plug material. I'm thinking this sprocket is hardened. I quit before I broke my drill bit, you could see the bit bending over. As a last resort I tried plunging with a 1/8" 2 flute end mill. Broke the end mill in very short order.

Guess flats it's going to be after all...

The other way would be to find another shaft of the same(ish) hardness as the gear and drill the two. The trick here is finding that hardness of shaft, grade 8 bolt?

 

[YYCHM]

To finish this thread off.

I acquired a 8" Peerless shaper from @RobinHood (thanks Rudy). The Gingery was returned to @kevin.decelles for preservation.

Peerless Shaper Basement Install

Well.... the Gingery shaper just wet my appetite for something a little better so... Monday, I acquired this 8" Peerless shaper from @RobinHood (Thanks Rudy). Looks innocent enough doesn't it. It's NOT, it's heavier than all get out. This is the conclusion after offloading it from the...

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