Johnwa
Ultra Member
@YYCHobbyMachinist yes, I had started to surface it with the shaper. I was getting a lot of chatter so put it aside for 15 years
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Gingery Shaper Resurrection
- Thread starter YYCHM
- Start date
Ya, I know that chatter you experienced, and I wondered about the chatter marks on the table. Weird eh. Any HSS tool I have tried does it. A simple cemented carbide insert tool doesn't???
Johnwa
Ultra Member
@YYCHobbyMachinist and @kevin.decelles thanks keeping this thing alive. I can’t tell you how happy I am to see it in good hands. I was ready to scrap it for parts and ingots, but then I thought someone on the group might appreciate it. I’m glad someone did!
So..... I took the plunge and planed the table.
I'm really impressed.... the machine sliced off smoking hot steel chips no problem. This is pass one. I thought I was traversing high to low but managed to go low to high so the doc was pretty significant at the end.
Near the end of pass one.
And this is the final result after a second light pass followed by a no doc pass. A single pass takes a little over an hour with the cross feed set to it's finest traverse.
She now measures 0.005" left to right (was 0.02") and 0.01 fore to aft, so no real change in fore to aft. Table flex?
I've noticed that the motor gets rather warm (almost hot) after 30 minutes of this kind of stuff. Something to be concerned about?
UPDATE: I ran the motor for a 1/2 hour with nothing connected to it. It gets just as warm driving nothing as it did when it was driving the shaper, so I guess that's just the nature of the beast.
I'm really impressed.... the machine sliced off smoking hot steel chips no problem. This is pass one. I thought I was traversing high to low but managed to go low to high so the doc was pretty significant at the end.
Near the end of pass one.
And this is the final result after a second light pass followed by a no doc pass. A single pass takes a little over an hour with the cross feed set to it's finest traverse.
She now measures 0.005" left to right (was 0.02") and 0.01 fore to aft, so no real change in fore to aft. Table flex?
I've noticed that the motor gets rather warm (almost hot) after 30 minutes of this kind of stuff. Something to be concerned about?
UPDATE: I ran the motor for a 1/2 hour with nothing connected to it. It gets just as warm driving nothing as it did when it was driving the shaper, so I guess that's just the nature of the beast.
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I decided the table needs some help and installed a support.....
Bolted the machine down to a 1/2" thick plate. The support bracket is a 1/2" thick C section (actually 1/2 of a piece of 4" heavy walled square tubing) and the leg is 3/4" mild steel with a nice slippery brass shoe to ride on.
Seems to help as HSS tooling is behaving a lot better now.
Bolted the machine down to a 1/2" thick plate. The support bracket is a 1/2" thick C section (actually 1/2 of a piece of 4" heavy walled square tubing) and the leg is 3/4" mild steel with a nice slippery brass shoe to ride on.
Seems to help as HSS tooling is behaving a lot better now.
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Finally got this vise project finished....
Two weeks in the making
If I had to give it a title it would be "The Stan Bray Improved Milling Vise PITA Project from Hell"
Was nothing but gotcha after gotcha after gotcha and a broken center drill to boot
. I wonder how many dead spots are in the travel that will require shimming?
Two weeks in the making
If I had to give it a title it would be "The Stan Bray Improved Milling Vise PITA Project from Hell"
Was nothing but gotcha after gotcha after gotcha and a broken center drill to boot. I wonder how many dead spots are in the travel that will require shimming?
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Not bad for finish if you're patient enough. Passes a very slow.
This is aluminum and looks to be pretty square now. I had chewed that piece up pretty bad experimenting and wanted to see if I could shape it back to square.
The round nose tool I ground seems to work not bad.
I have to figure out what's causing all the table/bench vibration I'm experiencing. Also, the whole machine sort of rocks forward and backwards, so when you see the shaper table dipping it's actually the whole machine rocking.
This is aluminum and looks to be pretty square now. I had chewed that piece up pretty bad experimenting and wanted to see if I could shape it back to square.
The round nose tool I ground seems to work not bad.
I have to figure out what's causing all the table/bench vibration I'm experiencing. Also, the whole machine sort of rocks forward and backwards, so when you see the shaper table dipping it's actually the whole machine rocking.
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DPittman
Ultra Member
It looks like your having fun with that machine, making improvements and learning lots?
In my quest to eliminate vibration, I decided to make a new sprocket drive shaft...
The original is a tad too short to fully support a 4 sheave pulley, hence the pulley was wobbling.
Could not find any decent 5/8" stock at Rona or Lowes. The pieces they had weren't anywhere near straight and looked like they had been dipped in acid, so I turned the new shaft from 3/4" SS I had. I nailed the dimensions 5/8" and 1/2". In fact I had to finish the 1/2" end with emery cloth in order for the drive sprocket to seat.
This is the drive sprocket. It really could use a 1/8" key rather than relying on the two tiny set screws set on flats that is the current implementation. Can't get my head around why it doesn't have a keyway in the first place unless it was meant to be welded on a shaft.
In any event I'm looking for suggestions as to how I can cut a keyway in it. I can't picture side milling with a 1/8" end mill working nor can I a picture a 1/8" drill bit doing the trick either. A hack saw blade won't fit in the center hole.
An ideas?
The original is a tad too short to fully support a 4 sheave pulley, hence the pulley was wobbling.
Could not find any decent 5/8" stock at Rona or Lowes. The pieces they had weren't anywhere near straight and looked like they had been dipped in acid, so I turned the new shaft from 3/4" SS I had. I nailed the dimensions 5/8" and 1/2". In fact I had to finish the 1/2" end with emery cloth in order for the drive sprocket to seat.
This is the drive sprocket. It really could use a 1/8" key rather than relying on the two tiny set screws set on flats that is the current implementation. Can't get my head around why it doesn't have a keyway in the first place unless it was meant to be welded on a shaft.
In any event I'm looking for suggestions as to how I can cut a keyway in it. I can't picture side milling with a 1/8" end mill working nor can I a picture a 1/8" drill bit doing the trick either. A hack saw blade won't fit in the center hole.
An ideas?
DPittman
Ultra Member
Why wouldn't cutting it with an end mill work?
Side mill for plunge mill? What would you suggest? A 1/8" end mill looks pretty fragile to me and the side flutes aren't long enough to side mill in one go.
DPittman
Ultra Member
So 1/8" end mill is small....maybe you could use woodruff cutter or slitting saw if an end mill doesn't work. Mr Pete has some demonstrations
Are the little set screw on flats not holding?
Cutting the keyway on the shaft isn't a problem. Cutting a keyway in the center hole of the sprocket is my head scratcher. So far the set screws on flats are holding, but it sure looks iffy to me.
DPittman
Ultra Member
Oh sorry I misunderstood you. You could slot the sprocket with your lathe (or mill quill) with tiny little nibbles with a hss square ground as a cutter. You use the back and forth movement of carriage ( or quill) for the motion and advance cross feed to increase depth.
QUOTE="YYCHM, post: 40502, member: 993"]Cutting the keyway on the shaft isn't a problem. Cutting a keyway in the center hole of the sprocket is my head scratcher. So far the set screws on flats are holding, but it sure looks iffy to
QUOTE="YYCHM, post: 40502, member: 993"]Cutting the keyway on the shaft isn't a problem. Cutting a keyway in the center hole of the sprocket is my head scratcher. So far the set screws on flats are holding, but it sure looks iffy to