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Gingery Shaper Resurrection

YYCHM

(Craig)
Premium Member
@YYCHobbyMachinist yes, I had started to surface it with the shaper. I was getting a lot of chatter so put it aside for 15 years

Ya, I know that chatter you experienced, and I wondered about the chatter marks on the table. Weird eh. Any HSS tool I have tried does it. A simple cemented carbide insert tool doesn't???
 

YYCHM

(Craig)
Premium Member
So..... I took the plunge and planed the table.

TP1.JPG

I'm really impressed.... the machine sliced off smoking hot steel chips no problem. This is pass one. I thought I was traversing high to low but managed to go low to high so the doc was pretty significant at the end.

TP2.JPG

Near the end of pass one.

TP3.JPG

And this is the final result after a second light pass followed by a no doc pass. A single pass takes a little over an hour with the cross feed set to it's finest traverse.

She now measures 0.005" left to right (was 0.02") and 0.01 fore to aft, so no real change in fore to aft. Table flex?

I've noticed that the motor gets rather warm (almost hot) after 30 minutes of this kind of stuff. Something to be concerned about?

UPDATE: I ran the motor for a 1/2 hour with nothing connected to it. It gets just as warm driving nothing as it did when it was driving the shaper, so I guess that's just the nature of the beast.
 
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YYCHM

(Craig)
Premium Member
I decided the table needs some help and installed a support.....

Support1.JPG

Support2.JPG

Bolted the machine down to a 1/2" thick plate. The support bracket is a 1/2" thick C section (actually 1/2 of a piece of 4" heavy walled square tubing) and the leg is 3/4" mild steel with a nice slippery brass shoe to ride on.

Seems to help as HSS tooling is behaving a lot better now.
 
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RobinHood

Ultra Member
Premium Member
That is very good engineering Craig. Well done improving the rigidity of the shaper. Results speak for themselves.
 

Tom O

Ultra Member
That is probably the best addition you could have done to it the finish looks like night and day.
 

YYCHM

(Craig)
Premium Member
Finally got this vise project finished....

FINISHED.JPG

Two weeks in the makingo_O

If I had to give it a title it would be "The Stan Bray Improved Milling Vise PITA Project from Hell":p Was nothing but gotcha after gotcha after gotcha and a broken center drill to boot:rolleyes:. I wonder how many dead spots are in the travel that will require shimming?
 
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YYCHM

(Craig)
Premium Member
Not bad for finish if you're patient enough. Passes a very slow.

ALFinish.JPG

This is aluminum and looks to be pretty square now. I had chewed that piece up pretty bad experimenting and wanted to see if I could shape it back to square.

RNTool.JPG

The round nose tool I ground seems to work not bad.

I have to figure out what's causing all the table/bench vibration I'm experiencing. Also, the whole machine sort of rocks forward and backwards, so when you see the shaper table dipping it's actually the whole machine rocking.
 
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DPittman

Ultra Member
Premium Member
Not bad for finish if you're patient enough. Passes a very slow.

View attachment 13844

This is aluminum and looks to be pretty square now. I had chewed that piece up pretty bad experimenting and wanted to see if I could shape it back to square.

View attachment 13845

The round nose tool I ground seems to work not bad.

I have to figure out what's causing all the table/bench vibration I'm experiencing. Also, the whole machine sort of rocks forward and backwards, so when you see the shaper table dipping it's actually the whole machine rocking.
It looks like your having fun with that machine, making improvements and learning lots?
 

YYCHM

(Craig)
Premium Member
In my quest to eliminate vibration, I decided to make a new sprocket drive shaft...

SHAFT2.JPG

The original is a tad too short to fully support a 4 sheave pulley, hence the pulley was wobbling.

SHAFT1.JPG

Could not find any decent 5/8" stock at Rona or Lowes. The pieces they had weren't anywhere near straight and looked like they had been dipped in acid, so I turned the new shaft from 3/4" SS I had. I nailed the dimensions 5/8" and 1/2". In fact I had to finish the 1/2" end with emery cloth in order for the drive sprocket to seat.

SPROCKET1.JPG

SPROCKET2.JPG

This is the drive sprocket. It really could use a 1/8" key rather than relying on the two tiny set screws set on flats that is the current implementation. Can't get my head around why it doesn't have a keyway in the first place unless it was meant to be welded on a shaft.

In any event I'm looking for suggestions as to how I can cut a keyway in it. I can't picture side milling with a 1/8" end mill working nor can I a picture a 1/8" drill bit doing the trick either. A hack saw blade won't fit in the center hole.

An ideas?
 

DPittman

Ultra Member
Premium Member
In my quest to eliminate vibration, I decided to make a new sprocket drive shaft...

View attachment 13914

The original is a tad too short to fully support a 4 sheave pulley, hence the pulley was wobbling.

View attachment 13915

Could not find any decent 5/8" stock at Rona or Lowes. The pieces they had weren't anywhere near straight and looked like they had been dipped in acid, so I turned the new shaft from 3/4" SS I had. I nailed the dimensions 5/8" and 1/2". In fact I had to finish the 1/2" end with emery cloth in order for the drive sprocket to seat.

View attachment 13916

View attachment 13917

This is the drive sprocket. It really could use a 1/8" key rather than relying on the two tiny set screws set on flats that is the current implementation. Can't get my head around why it doesn't have a keyway in the first place unless it was meant to be welded on a shaft.

In any event I'm looking for suggestions as to how I can cut a keyway in it. I can't picture side milling with a 1/8" end mill working nor can I a picture a 1/8" drill bit doing the trick either. A hack saw blade won't fit in the center hole.

An ideas?
Why wouldn't cutting it with an end mill work?
 

YYCHM

(Craig)
Premium Member
Replaced the 1/2" counter shaft shaft as well......

CounterShaft.JPG

The inboard 4 sheave pully was wobbling on that sucker as well. The shaft was bent. Another Rona metal stock purchase:(
 

DPittman

Ultra Member
Premium Member
Side mill for plunge mill? What would you suggest? A 1/8" end mill looks pretty fragile to me and the side flutes aren't long enough to side mill in one go.
So 1/8" end mill is small....maybe you could use woodruff cutter or slitting saw if an end mill doesn't work. Mr Pete has some demonstrations

Are the little set screw on flats not holding?
 

YYCHM

(Craig)
Premium Member
So 1/8" end mill is small....maybe you could use woodruff cutter or slitting saw if an end mill doesn't work. Mr Pete has some demonstrations

Are the little set screw on flats not holding?

Cutting the keyway on the shaft isn't a problem. Cutting a keyway in the center hole of the sprocket is my head scratcher. So far the set screws on flats are holding, but it sure looks iffy to me.
 

DPittman

Ultra Member
Premium Member
Oh sorry I misunderstood you. You could slot the sprocket with your lathe (or mill quill) with tiny little nibbles with a hss square ground as a cutter. You use the back and forth movement of carriage ( or quill) for the motion and advance cross feed to increase depth.


QUOTE="YYCHM, post: 40502, member: 993"]Cutting the keyway on the shaft isn't a problem. Cutting a keyway in the center hole of the sprocket is my head scratcher. So far the set screws on flats are holding, but it sure looks iffy to
 

YYCHM

(Craig)
Premium Member
You could slot the sprocket with your lathe (or mill quill) with tiny little nibbles with a hss square ground as a cutter. You use the back and forth movement of carriage ( or quill) for the motion and advance cross feed to increase depth.

Ya, I've played with doing that on the lathe. Didn't have much success:(
 
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