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Gingery Shaper Resurrection

YYCHM

(Craig)
Premium Member
Well.... I might not have the room for this after all:(

MotorMount.JPG

Not in this configuration that's for sure. Need to get the motor off to the side or above or below some how.

Anyone know where to source a single phase 110V fractional 1050/800 RPM motor cheap?

Craig
 
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kevin.decelles

Jack of all trades -- Master of none
Premium Member
small cabinet..... stack them (motor below).

or...... break the mold and line shaft it :p
 

YYCHM

(Craig)
Premium Member
Discovered yet another delinquent Gib Strip...….

DFGib1.JPG

Another vertical strip. This one on the tool head down feed.

DFGib2.JPG

Milled up another hooked replacement.

DFGib3.JPG

That's not going on walk about again.

FeedDial.JPG

Added a calibrated down feed dial per the Gingery design. As predicted one division produced 0.001" down feed. Confirmed that with my DI.

Bench1.JPG

Bench2.JPG

This is the only spot I have available to stage this thing. I'll have to sling the motor under the table some how?
 
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YYCHM

(Craig)
Premium Member
I have a mounting plan now.....

TABLE.JPG

Don't see any reason for this not to work. In order to provide a means of tensioning the multi-step pulleys I'll mount the shaper on a 1/2" thick slotted plate with relief to slide it back and forth.

Off to the H/W store tomorrow:p

@Johnwa that's quite the Bubba arrangement on the motor mounting bracket:eek: Welded? The hose clamps are interesting..... What's the story behind that?
 
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Tom O

Ultra Member
You will need to consider that motor mount will be in the way of a heavier frame because once you change the pulley speed it will walk out the door.
 

YYCHM

(Craig)
Premium Member
Well..... I think we are ready to stage her in the shop now.

SlungMotor.JPG

Had her in there once already and had to pull her out again. Was making way too much noise.

Ended up that motor only likes to be in one particular orientation otherwise it shakes and growls and chatters like crazy. Worn out from being a furnace motor for god knows how long I would imagine.

Clamps.JPG

Rather than mess with a slotted mounting plate to allow belt tensioning, I milled up some simple L clamps.

Brace.JPG

Added a back brace in case I have to use some leverage to belt tension.

CounterShaftMount.JPG

The counter shaft mounting block was challenging. First attempt I used a piece of 2X4 screwed to the table. That arrangement was showing signs of lifting so in my infinite wisdom I decided to add a few more screws for good measure. Well.... the block split and we were back to square one:( No loss really the 2X4 was actually too short to allow the inboard belt to be mounted on the large sheave. After much head scratching as to what to use as mounting block I spotted a piece of heavy wall 4" square tubing that @kevin.decelles had given me a few years back. Threw it in the bandsaw and cut her in half, perfect. Used bolts to mount it this time not wood screws:rolleyes:

Stage her in the shop next and start looking at making some chips.
 

YYCHM

(Craig)
Premium Member
Finally making some chips now......

ToolStand.JPG

Had to replace the table I had originally mounted it on with a proper tool stand. That table was just too wobbly LOL.

Mounted my spare 3/4 HP motor this time.

PillowBlock.JPG

Mounted the countershaft assembly using proper pillow block bears this time. Things are running much more smoothly now.

Chips1.JPG

Just playing with some aluminum for now. That's a 1/8" deep step I'm carving out, so not bad, but a couple of things are happening. The step is getting progressively shallower. Looks like the tool is climbing as it enters the cut and I can't seem to get a HSS tool to work. HSS chatters rather badly for some reason. Probably tool geometry.

Lots of stuff to play with on this shaper. Both length of stroke and stroke start position are adjustable. Getting the best results by having the forward stroke start about 1/2" from the work piece and the stroke length minimal. If you expand on that things get quite violent when the tool contacts the work piece. Less than that and the clapper doesn't have time to reset. I think the clapper actually needs to be heavier. Maybe made of CI rather than aluminium.

The saga continues...…..
 
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Johnwa

Ultra Member
IIRC the work table wasn’t exactly square and I don’t think I finished planing the top of it. Some of the videos I’ve seen had a largish bearing hanging on the tool holder to give the clapper some extra weight.
There is also quite a bit of flex so the table does tend to bend down a bit. The heavier the cut the worse it is. Many shapers have a vertical post attached to the table to support the outer end
 

YYCHM

(Craig)
Premium Member
IIRC the work table wasn’t exactly square and I don’t think I finished planing the top of it. Some of the videos I’ve seen had a largish bearing hanging on the tool holder to give the clapper some extra weight.
There is also quite a bit of flex so the table does tend to bend down a bit. The heavier the cut the worse it is. Many shapers have a vertical post attached to the table to support the outer end

Ok, thanks, I'll put a DI on it and see where the table is at. It does flex alright. Been trying to figure out how an outer table support could be added.
 

YYCHM

(Craig)
Premium Member
Did you watch this video RobinHood posted?,

Ya, I did. What's puzzling is that the cemented carbide insert tool that works has essentially nothing in terms of classic tool geometry yet the HSS tools that do chatter like crazy.
 

kevin.decelles

Jack of all trades -- Master of none
Premium Member
I'll post a pic later of the southbend table support. Great to see the chips. I know when I fired up the big shaper two weeks ago the chatter was crazy. I added a wee bit of cutting oil and it simmered right down.
 

YYCHM

(Craig)
Premium Member
Mild Steel...…… ?

MildSteel.JPG

No problem. In fact it appears to shape better than the aluminium? That's a 0.04" step and I'm
confident I can go to 0.05" and maybe more yet.
 
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YYCHM

(Craig)
Premium Member
So.... the table is approx. 5" X 5". It's listing left to right by 0.02" and 0.01" fore and aft.

@Johnwa the Gingery book appears to say let the shaper sort this out by shaping the table. Is that your take on it as well?

Craig
 
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kevin.decelles

Jack of all trades -- Master of none
Premium Member
That's one option, the other is to scrape it flat....... but its a shaper! I'd take a skim cut. The beauty here is that you can always make a new table! Parts are infinite as it was hand made.
 
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