What DRO is on it and how are the scales mounted?
Fly Reels
- Thread starter eotrfish
- Start date
What DRO is on it and how are the scales mounted?
Could you post a few images of the lathe scale installation please.
eotrfish
Super User
This link is probably the best description of the generic installation procedure.
http://www.newall.com/upload/content/file/Spherosyn Microsyn Install Manual - 023-12620-UK-1.pdf
The cross slide mount on my machine was the only one that was a little out of the ordinary. I had to make a few bits and pieces.
http://www.newall.com/upload/content/file/Spherosyn Microsyn Install Manual - 023-12620-UK-1.pdf
The cross slide mount on my machine was the only one that was a little out of the ordinary. I had to make a few bits and pieces.
I would have preferred my DRO on RHS like yours but there just wasn't great way to accommodate access to the carriage lock which is adjacent to the gib strip. So its on the chuck side (protected).
What model & vintage lathe is that? Am I seeing part of a mill column in the background (combination lathe+mill?).
Not sure if you follow Stefan Gotteswinter but he recently replaced his overclocked Asian machine with Emco Maximat Super 11.
https://www.youtube.com/user/syyl/search?query=emco
What model & vintage lathe is that? Am I seeing part of a mill column in the background (combination lathe+mill?).
Not sure if you follow Stefan Gotteswinter but he recently replaced his overclocked Asian machine with Emco Maximat Super 11.
https://www.youtube.com/user/syyl/search?query=emco
eotrfish
Super User
Peter
Good eye - that is an Emco FB-2 mill column mounted on the back of the lathe ways.
The machine is an Emco Maximat Super 11 - one owner - new in 1984.
Thanks for the link to Stefan Gotteswinter - I’ll look at his stuff.
The carriage lock on mine is also on the right, hence the bridge shown in first photo. An open end wrench fits under the bridge to operate the carriage lock.
Good eye - that is an Emco FB-2 mill column mounted on the back of the lathe ways.
The machine is an Emco Maximat Super 11 - one owner - new in 1984.
Thanks for the link to Stefan Gotteswinter - I’ll look at his stuff.
The carriage lock on mine is also on the right, hence the bridge shown in first photo. An open end wrench fits under the bridge to operate the carriage lock.
eotrfish
Super User
Another reel completed...
This one is a 5" OD centrepin reel based on very early British designs with a few modern touchs.
Here's a link to the spool spin/runout test...
I was able to get the runout down to .002" radially and .003" axially. I was pleased with that considering that the spool is assembled from two rings screwed onto 12 dowels, then attached to the centre hub with 12 spokes. Truing the spool by adjusting the spoke tension was easier than I initially thought it would be.
I've got 5 other reels of various designs on the bench waiting for a trip to the anodizer. I think I'll leave this one bright.
This one is a 5" OD centrepin reel based on very early British designs with a few modern touchs.
Here's a link to the spool spin/runout test...
I was able to get the runout down to .002" radially and .003" axially. I was pleased with that considering that the spool is assembled from two rings screwed onto 12 dowels, then attached to the centre hub with 12 spokes. Truing the spool by adjusting the spoke tension was easier than I initially thought it would be.
I've got 5 other reels of various designs on the bench waiting for a trip to the anodizer. I think I'll leave this one bright.
Beautiful work!
- in your video, is that a blast of air to get the assembly spinning & just using the chuck as holding fixture?
- I don't quite understand the overall tensioning procedure. Are each of the brass spokes threaded on one end like a bike spoke? What do you grip them with to turn in/out?
- what is the role of the 3 springs on those coaxial spokes?
Really nice detailing & finishing. I can totally appreciate the work that went in. Make some kind of sacrifice to the Annodization Gods Lol
- in your video, is that a blast of air to get the assembly spinning & just using the chuck as holding fixture?
- I don't quite understand the overall tensioning procedure. Are each of the brass spokes threaded on one end like a bike spoke? What do you grip them with to turn in/out?
- what is the role of the 3 springs on those coaxial spokes?
Really nice detailing & finishing. I can totally appreciate the work that went in. Make some kind of sacrifice to the Annodization Gods Lol
eotrfish
Super User
Thanks Peter
These reels are meant to spin freely so that a float or large fly can be carried downstream without any appreciable drag on the line - hence the spin test.
The spindle is mounted in the lathe chuck and the spool is spun with a short air blast. For the runout test I rotate the spool by hand and measure runout as I adjust the spoke tension.
The spokes are two piece - a body and a 2-56 screw. The spoke body is threaded 4-40 one end and has a 2-56 hole in the other end to accept the 2-56 x .25 screw which is fixed permanently in place with Loctite 680. The underside of the screw head is then turned to give a good flat underside which bears on the spool rings. The Phillips recess provides a way to tension the spokes.
Now to the three springs...
The longest spring keeps the spool retention fork engaged in the spindle groove.
There are two springs on the drag spoke. The spring closest to the hub lifts the drag fork off the spindle when drag is set to mimimum. The outer spring is adjusted via the drag nut. It forces the drag fork against the spindle to provide a small amout of spin resistance.
These reels are meant to spin freely so that a float or large fly can be carried downstream without any appreciable drag on the line - hence the spin test.
The spindle is mounted in the lathe chuck and the spool is spun with a short air blast. For the runout test I rotate the spool by hand and measure runout as I adjust the spoke tension.
The spokes are two piece - a body and a 2-56 screw. The spoke body is threaded 4-40 one end and has a 2-56 hole in the other end to accept the 2-56 x .25 screw which is fixed permanently in place with Loctite 680. The underside of the screw head is then turned to give a good flat underside which bears on the spool rings. The Phillips recess provides a way to tension the spokes.
Now to the three springs...
The longest spring keeps the spool retention fork engaged in the spindle groove.
There are two springs on the drag spoke. The spring closest to the hub lifts the drag fork off the spindle when drag is set to mimimum. The outer spring is adjusted via the drag nut. It forces the drag fork against the spindle to provide a small amout of spin resistance.
eotrfish
Super User
I generally design to fit commercially available springs although I do wind a few if can't find a good match. Reel springs are quite forgiving so heat treat is not an issue. I did make a fixture for winding springs in my lathe some years ago. It's a simple tension tube mounted in a tool holder that let's me set pitch by using the half nuts. You do have to do a little trial and error with the mandrel to account for springback.
0.029 bright spring wire on 1/8" mandrel
The backend has a set screw to tension the spring wire - again a little trial and error is required.
Then cut to length and grind ends square - you lose a couple of turns each end.
SDP-SI is my go-to source for commercial springs.
eotrfish
Super User
YYCHM
I do the modelling with Autodesk Inventor - great software. Once the model is done you can make any conceivable drawing in a matter or minutes. I've been using AutoCad and Inventor since the early 80's.
What a pleasure it is to see the pieces you make and bring together to create a functional fly reel. The attention to accuracy and detail is, as always, impressive.
eotrfish
Super User
Thanks John
Indeed there is something special about assembling the myriad of small parts and actually having the reel work as planned.
Here are a couple of before pics of another reel. I just have to take the body parts to the anodizer before I can make the final assembly.
What are the maroon colored parts - phenolic or something?
And the handles, are they finished hardwood or?
If you happen to have some pics, I'd like to see some of the fixtures or methods you make these irregular geometry parts like the brass arms. I take it these are manual/DRO, not cnc?
And the handles, are they finished hardwood or?
If you happen to have some pics, I'd like to see some of the fixtures or methods you make these irregular geometry parts like the brass arms. I take it these are manual/DRO, not cnc?
Attachments
eotrfish
Super User
Peter
The maroon parts are Micarta brake shoes the ride on the Sprag bearing shown in the top of the parts photo.
The handles are polished Rosewood finished with many coats of Gorilla Glue. I use different materials for handles - sometimes black Delrin, sometimes white artificial Ivory.
I use a lot circular fixtures for parts with irregular geometry because I can mount the fixture in my rotary table and orient as needed for a particular cut - Yes this is all manual/DRO work. It's tedious but it works. Solids modelling makes the layout a piece of cake. I just project the part profile by 1/2 of the intended end mill diameter, extrude it .010 then add that to my drawing. The extruded profile is then dimensioned and used as the endmill centreline.
The key to success is precise hole locations in the fixture and in the part blank material.
This fixture has multiple tapped and plain holes because I was able to use it for all of the irregular parts in this reel.
