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Tips/Techniques Filament Recommendations

Tips/Techniques
Someone earlier mentioned keepers for filament on opened spools.

My Bambu spools come with built in keepers - each 90 degrees apart.

20260704_130947.jpg
 
Someone earlier mentioned keepers for filament on opened spools.

My Bambu spools come with built in keepers - each 90 degrees apart.

View attachment 83869
I use both. The clips and the holes. Depends on how it's being stored. The cereal boxes with RH meters like @Arbutus posted are easy to use with just the filament in the hole. More of a pain if into a bag and then the original box. Or bend through both holes and it leaves the end kinked which needs to be trimmed off or try to bend it straight.
 
I ran across this shopping for filaments to make my bride happy. It's a box of colour swatches for the designer in us.


I also noticed that bambu has a PLA TOUGH Filament.
 
I ran across this shopping for filaments to make my bride happy. It's a box of colour swatches for the designer in us.


I also noticed that bambu has a PLA TOUGH Filament.
Rookie mistake.
The proper move is to tell your beloved that filament only comes in black, white and grey.
Immediately cuts the silly prints down by 70% at least.
And PLA Tough is discontinued and will be gone when supplies are out.
 
They threw that swatch in for free with my A1. And yes I recall some colors were no longer showing online, so dont make promises. I have no rel use for the coupons, so have been using them to test adhesives, paint, mold release... stuff like that
 
Rookie mistake.
The proper move is to tell your beloved that filament only comes in black, white and grey.
Immediately cuts the silly prints down by 70% at least.
And PLA Tough is discontinued and will be gone when supplies are out.

Ya, it may have been a huge mistake. But at my ripe old age, I'll live with it.

I dug into PLA TOUGH. What I found suggests that TOUGH is indeed history. The good news is that it is being replaced by PLA TOUGH+. No signs anywhere that TOUGH+ is being discontinued.

I saw TOUGH+ promoted as a friendlier ABS without the high temperature advantages.
 
They threw that swatch in for free with my A1. And yes I recall some colors were no longer showing online, so dont make promises. I have no rel use for the coupons, so have been using them to test adhesives, paint, mold release... stuff like that
What glue @PeterT or Anyone do you think works best with PETG? I have some "acrylic" glue I got at spool3d.ca and also just super glue. Clamping helps. It's only ok. I wish I had a better option. Perhaps I'm not prepping correctly?
 
Rookie mistake.
The proper move is to tell your beloved that filament only comes in black, white and grey.
Immediately cuts the silly prints down by 70% at least.
Silly prints! That's my department. lately it is rockets...
 
What glue @PeterT or Anyone do you think works best with PETG? I have some "acrylic" glue I got at spool3d.ca and also just super glue. Clamping helps. It's only ok. I wish I had a better option. Perhaps I'm not prepping correctly?
I use hair spray. Specifically L'Oreal Elnett Satin filtched from my wife's supply. Just a light spray on the smooth plate makes PETG really hard to remove. On the textured it still holds but easier to pull off.
 
I use hair spray. Specifically L'Oreal Elnett Satin filtched from my wife's supply. Just a light spray on the smooth plate makes PETG really hard to remove. On the textured it still holds but easier to pull off.
I thought he was talking about glueing petg parts together?
 
What glue @PeterT or Anyone do you think works best with PETG? I have some "acrylic" glue I got at spool3d.ca and also just super glue. Clamping helps. It's only ok. I wish I had a better option. Perhaps I'm not prepping correctly?
To answer the glue question - there are basically three types of plastic - Low, Medium and High Surface Energy. Usually abbreviated as LSE, MSE and HSE.

The LSE plastics are slippery - polythene, polyethylene, Teflon
MSE plastics are harder and have a crystalline surface such as PLA,PETG, ABS, acrylic and polycarbonate
HSE plastics include PA (Nylons), PET, Delrin and PEEK for example

LSE plastics are very difficult to bond with a gap filling adhesive because the adhesive cannot 'grip' the surface and it peels off. The best way to join LSE is by heat or chemical fusion. They are also horribly difficult to print due to bed adhesion problems.

MSE plastics can be bonded by heat and by many of the common glues in the hardware store. I use Gorilla Glue thick CA and the brown foaming polyurethane Gorilla Glue for most 3DP parts. PLA and ABS can be securely joined with plumber's glues and surface cleaners because they dissolve the plastics and form a chemical bond.

HSEs such as Delrin can be bonded by heat and some specialised adhesives - particularly methylmethacrylate and some polyurethane glues after roughening the surface.

Filaments with a filler - CF or GF, bond much more securely when using adhesives because the microsurface roughness allows the glue to key onto the material very well.

It usually helps to wipe the joining surfaces with IPA first.

When gluing plastic to metal, you should account for the sudden difference in stiffness and expansion at the joint. Using a slightly flexible glue such as polyurethane will help maintain the joint.
🙂
 
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Typo Arbutus?
Delrin is actually an HSE plastic with some LSE surface properties ! Go figure. Basically it can be extruded and cast just like Nylon, but it retains a slippery surface. It is very difficult to print due to bed adhesion problems. To solve this Magigoo PA adhesive can work for Delrin (POM) if you are very careful with speeds and flowrate.
 
I thought he was talking about glueing petg parts together?
I did meant gluing petg parts together but hair spray on the bed for adhesion? I like that idea and will try it. I sometimes use glue stick but it makes a mess and I don't like the clean up.
 
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