Hey Craig,The inserts aren't very sharp and they aren't secured to the head very well. I'm not convinced all the insert cutting tips are in the same plane (i.e. on cuts more than the other two). It does work, but doesn't leave a great finish IMHO.
Try loosening the insert hold down screws.... The ones on mine are brutally tight.
If you're really concerned about a more gradual approach one can use round inserts. Even gentler than the 45-degree ones!
I always understood that button inserts required high cutting force and high horsepower, is that not the case ?
Do you think you may have had some heat expansion going on?
A few years ago, I found that cheaper holders with cheap insert screws didn't work out well. I was applying copper anti seize each time I pulled the inserts out.
If I couldn't get them out, I would have to break them out and most times having to replace the insert screws ( Which some screws are not cheap)
Probably not worth the effort for that cutter, however, you could break the existing inserts out, replace with some new ones, indicate them to see if 1 or 2 of them have pushed up due to holder material.
Just a thought..
That has been my experience as well, with both flat top and dished button inserts.I always understood that button inserts required high cutting force and high horsepower, is that not the case ?
Me too. Same prolly goes for 45s vs the 90. Definitely a longer edge.
All things considered, I'd rather stick with 90s because I know first hand that they work and they do a good job. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Same thought crossed my mind. How hard would that stub be?You could always turn the stub down on the Arbor to a more popular metric size, 22mm is a pretty popular size, 5 minutes on the lathe
Same thought crossed my mind. How hard would that stub be?
I use carbide cutters on my lathe.
If by "button inserts" you mean the round ones, there are RCGTxxx inserts intended for aluminum that require very little cutting force.I always understood that button inserts required high cutting force and high horsepower, is that not the case ?
@Dusty & @slow-poke - I found this on Ali.
View attachment 31048
Note the 25.4 dimension down about 3/4 of the way down the list. That 25.4 is exactly 1".
The first one is roughy 2.5 inches and the second is roughly 3 inches
The drive dogs are wrong, but they can be made to fit. Same goes for the stub retainer.
I'm gunna keep looking but one of these might be worth a try.
Here is the link:
Clamped CNC Cutting Steel Right-Angle End Mill Precision Face Milling Cutter
I believe that the APKT & APMT inserts are interchangeable. So buying the Ali BAP head shouldn't leave you out on a limb without an insert. Assuming I'm right, you can always use the Accusize inserts like mine on the BAP Head.
Chances are your arbor might not be an exact fit for these unless you buy one from the same seller, mine wasn't.
Well maybe I should try one
I feel an aliexpress order brewing
I'm struggling a bit to understand your advice here.
@slow-poke is looking for a face mill with an MT3 Arbour with a 3/8 drawbar. This doesn't seem to exist that he can find. I have an old arbour I could give him.
When you say an exact fit are you taking about the mods you describe or are you talking about other aspects not discussed?
The screw and drive dogs shouldn't be an issue at all.
The stub length isn't either. But I'd shorten the arbour rather then deepen the cutter simply because there will probably be more cutters in the future.
I don't know if @slow-poke has the ability to do these mods.
FWIW, my existing heads are like you describe too.