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Electric panel questions.

I have always used the pig tails for outlets that run off to other loads. If you want to change or fix the outlet you don’t disconnect anything downstream. Likewise if you wanted to terminate the outlet. The one thing I don’t like is the push in the back connection (unless you have no choice like a GFI in some cases) but it’s all what you like.
 
The purpose of the connected terminals in the first pic are 1. allows you to connect to another receptacle with out splicing, 2 you can cut the bridge connector to create a split plug, so you can have 2 circuits on the same plug ( same current rating ). To me the fist pic is the preferred choice as there's not a lot of room in the box for splicing of wires and wire nuts.
 
IIRC at one time in Alberta you had to use pigtails. That isn’t the case anymore. My preference is not to use a pigtail unless absolutely necessary. They take up room and are another connection that can fail.
 
Well, I'm with @Brent H on this one. I would NEVER (repeat NEVER) tie the neutrals through a jumper on the outlet. Too easy for someone downstream to get hurt or cause a fire.

If the code on this has changed, I am not aware of it.

I prefer not to use those bridges for the hot wire either. But if someone wants to, I would not scream at them. I would simply say that's not what they are designed to do.

The purpose of the bridges is to allow both outlet sockets to be used on the same pair of wires feeding the outlet. These tabs can be cut so that each of the two outlets can be fed separately (a so called split duplex) in a kitchen where individual loads are too high for a single circuit. They are not there to provide a convenient connection point. But yes, I know people do that and I know that electricians do it too.

I also hate twist on connectors and almost exclusively use brass Marr connectors with screw on insulators.

Yes, this can result in a packed receptacle box, but that's why the sell deep ones and shallow ones. The boxes are actually rated for the number of connections and wires inside them. Again, I think that has been forgotten with the passing of time.

It's been 30 years since I was involved with the code though so maybe things have changed.
 
May as well throw my two cents in here. I agree with the others about the push-in connections on the back and don't use them.
I have used both methods and I think it is more important to ensure that the connection is tight. Using to second connection point on the plug allows you to visually inspect the connection. It also keeps the box from being crowded with wire and wire nuts. If a wire nut is used then make sure that the wire end is stripped to the proper length, the wires are twisted together with a pair of pliers and then install the wire nut to secure the wire ends. Use the method you are most comfortable with. Just make sure all insulation is stripped on the wires at the termination point and the connections are tight and you will not have any issues.
 
Thank you guys.

I agree will all of you about the push in connections. I am not a fan of those.
I reached out to the Calgary electrical inspectors and this was their response.

"When installing more than one wire on a receptacle it is advised to use the pigtail method."
A little confusing but I think you can't go wrong with the pigtail method.


There are pros and cons to each method that I can see. Happy to use either method, but more happy to pass the inspection on the first try.

Looks like I might get to work on this today. Up early, temperatures looking good and no tasks (yet) to interfere will my plans.

Hope everyone has a great Friday.
 
Hacker said:
May as well throw my two cents in here. I agree with the others about the push-in connections on the back and don't use them.
I have used both methods and I think it is more important to ensure that the connection is tight. Using to second connection point on the plug allows you to visually inspect the connection. It also keeps the box from being crowded with wire and wire nuts. If a wire nut is used then make sure that the wire end is stripped to the proper length, the wires are twisted together with a pair of pliers and then install the wire nut to secure the wire ends. Use the method you are most comfortable with. Just make sure all insulation is stripped on the wires at the termination point and the connections are tight and you will not have any issues.
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With wire nuts, I usually strip the wires a bit longer than needed, twist the ends tight with the linesman pliers, then snip the end. Gives a nice clean spiral of the wires and is easier than trying to fight to get them aligned.

Same technique doing an RJ45 before pushing it in the plug, go long and snip level.
 
Susquatch said:
I hate those pushin connections for the same reason.
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I had a house that had Al and it was done on all the outlets by the builder and passed inspection. I found out when a wire broke and it arced whenever my wife flip a particular switch. Replaced all the outlets correctly in the house (we where the 4th or 5th owners).

The latest trend is now using copper clad Aluminum for wiring in the USA (one of my suppliers is the manufacturer), not sure if its coming here or approved here yet but I can see it coming with the price of copper.
 
I think if you're doing your own electrical, like I did, that it would be prudent to have the Electrical Safety Code book, and follow it. If you're doing a whole workshop, get a permit, do your own work, and get it inspected. God forbid if there's a fire, what could happen, and wondering if the home insurance would cover it. You and your family's safety is of the utmost importance. My house has 100amp service, and routed 60amps to the garage/shop.
 

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thestelster said:
I think if you're doing your own electrical, like I did, that it would be prudent to have the Electrical Safety Code book, and follow it. If you're doing a whole workshop, get a permit, do your own work, and get it inspected. God forbid if there's a fire, what could happen, and wondering if the home insurance would cover it. You and your family's safety is of the utmost importance. My house has 100amp service, and routed 60amps to the garage/shop.
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It's good that you posted the code itself as well as the simplified versions. The code is the Bible (this one for Ontario) and the simplified ones are easier to read but not the Bible. I wish the actual code was not so expensive. In my opinion, it should be free.

Always best to do what the inspector says.
 
It is helpful to have the code, with bookmarks on anything you might have questions about. I've asked the inspector, and he's showed me the relevant section (and somtimes it isn't where you think it should be).

The inspector has the local authority to ask for something that is 'higher' than code, or clarify an out-of-code situation. One time I wired 12 gauge on a 15A circuit, and he clarified the situation for me - it all ended well, but I made some low$ changes to make him happy. (and they made me happy too)
 
Susquatch said:
It's good that you posted the code itself as well as the simplified versions. The code is the Bible (this one for Ontario) and the simplified ones are easier to read but not the Bible. I wish the actual code was not so expensive. In my opinion, it should be free.

Always best to do what the inspector says.
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Agreed, any government enforced regulation should be freely available to all people to read.
 
If you go to the ESA (Electrical Safety Authority) website, the people who do the inspections and where you get permits in Ontario, they have a FAQ section, with Technical/Code questions. Extremely helpful. I bought an older edition of the code book, for fairly cheap on Kijiji, and was able to access all the changes made to the newest version of the code.
 
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