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Dividing head restoration

Wooooo Hooooo!

You win!

The rest is easy. Anything else that resists can be overcome with a drill and a few custom parts!
 
Thanks everyone for your encouragement! I washed out all the rusty goo with kerosene and an old toothbrush. Believe it or not the rust really isn't that deep. I managed to remove most if not all of the internal nuts and bolts. All rotational axis now turn freely! Not all parts are completely dissassembled but I'm wondering at this point if that will really be necessary. A lot more cleaning and lubrication will be next.
 
historicalarms said:
I'm kind'a with the "continue the tear down crowd"....man...your gonna have a rotary table that is the envy of every person in that crowd when your done.
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Well, maybe not quite a rotary table, but every bit as useful and every bit as envied!

I still think that he should scrap it at SSSS (Susquatch Scrap Sales Solutions) . Especially now that all the dissimilar metals have been separated out...... (Insert evil grin here.......)
 
Susquatch said:
Well, maybe not quite a rotary table, but every bit as useful and every bit as envied!

I still think that he should scrap it at SSSS (Susquatch Scrap Sales Solutions) . Especially now that all the dissimilar metals have been separated out...... (Insert evil grin here.......)
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Right now it very much looks like a pile of scrap parts! I've just spent the better part of my day trying to get every last piece apart. I've made a lot of progress but their are still a couple of key pieces that are eluding my efforts. I think its going to be a long time before it's "the envy of every person in the crowd". Buying it at the auction was a big gamble and a leap of faith. If I'd known then what I know now I may not have taken the gamble!

DH parts2.JPG


DH parts1.JPG
 
Canadium said:
I think its going to be a long time before it's "the envy of every person in the crowd".
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It's not even back together yet and it's already the envy of at least one person in the crowd! And I'd bet quite a few others feel the same way I do......;)

I like @Dabbler 's sentiments. That universal dividing head of yours will be the subject of many fine stories to come!

Well scored and well done!
 
For those interested I have a son with learning difficulties that can remove any bolt. Just to be clear I said remove....one way or another......as his shop teach found out on a brand new engine he was building.......

BTW righty tighty and left loosy has no mean he keeps turning till it comes off.
 
Degen said:
For those interested I have a son with learning difficulties that can remove any bolt. Just to be clear I said remove....one way or another......as his shop teach found out on a brand new engine he was building.......

BTW righty tighty and left loosy has no mean he keeps turning till it comes off.
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I think my wife has the same determination.
 
I'm having a @#&! of a time with the worm gear assembly on my DH. Some time ago I thought I had freed up all the axis of rotation. I was wrong! The worm gear assembly should rotate as a whole (which it does) but the worm gear should also rotate inside the assembly on a couple of brass bushings (which it doesn't). I have to take the assembly apart. As far as I can tell in order to do this I have to remove a taper pin first. However the back side of this pin is not easily accessible because it faces the worm gear shaft. The pin extends slightly out into a slot in the brass bushing. I managed to push the pin out a mm or 2 till flush with the inner bore but that was not enough to free it entirely. The pin does not stick out enough on the outer surface for me to grab onto it and pull it the rest of the way. Any suggestions on how to solve this problem???

DSC_0013 (3).JPG
 
Canadium said:
I'm having a @#&! of a time with the worm gear assembly on my DH. Some time ago I thought I had freed up all the axis of rotation. I was wrong! The worm gear assembly should rotate as a whole (which it does) but the worm gear should also rotate inside the assembly on a couple of brass bushings (which it doesn't). I have to take the assembly apart. As far as I can tell in order to do this I have to remove a taper pin first. However the back side of this pin is not easily accessible because it faces the worm gear shaft. The pin extends slightly out into a slot in the brass bushing. I managed to push the pin out a mm or 2 till flush with the inner bore but that was not enough to free it entirely. The pin does not stick out enough on the outer surface for me to grab onto it and pull it the rest of the way. Any suggestions on how to solve this problem???

View attachment 24292
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I have no idea what I'm looking at there. Could you take a few more photos of this pin?
 
Great progress! Once I pushed the pin out a few more thou it was no longer locking the brass bushing and worm gear in place. Now mostly disassembled!

Sorry I wasn't able to make this problem more clear. My old software I used for adding labels to pictures no longer works on the new windows and I haven't yet found a suitable replacement. In the pic in my previous post you can just barely see the pin sticking out a mm on the upper right hand side of the cylinder that holds the worm gear. At the top of the cylinder you can see the worm gear shaft protruding. The brass bushing is slightly recessed into the inner bore and you can see a couple of slots in the brass transecting the gear shaft. Probably clear as mud?

worm gear2.JPG
 
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