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DavidR8's shop shenanigans

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They pressed out the bearing the wrong direction and blew out one side of the casting

So what's the plan here? You gunna give it a decent chance to live again or part it out? Hopefully the former......
 
When we talked by phone I mistakenly identified the wrong casting. I don't have a computer in the garage... My mstake. My lathe also has a 1 piece casting to hold the pulleys.

The lathe has a few weaknesses, but it can do great work and if used within it's capabilities, will do great work for many years... I know of one that has been pretty heavily used for over 40 years, and still going strong, and holding accuracy...
 
There is no broken head casting. The broken piece is the counter shaft support bracket.

Well then that's awesome! I'm always thrill to discover I read something like that wrong!

When you said they pressed it out the wrong way and blew out the casting, my mind saw a broken gear box housing.

Nice lathe! Are you and @Rauce blood brothers?
 
Well then that's awesome! I'm always thrill to discover I read something like that wrong!

When you said they pressed it out the wrong way and blew out the casting, my mind saw a broken gear box housing.

Nice lathe! Are you and @Rauce blood brothers?
Thanks John!
By the way, the fellow who I met with was named John.
 
I’m
When we talked by phone I mistakenly identified the wrong casting. I don't have a computer in the garage... My mstake. My lathe also has a 1 piece casting to hold the pulleys.

The lathe has a few weaknesses, but it can do great work and if used within it's capabilities, will do great work for many years... I know of one that has been pretty heavily used for over 40 years, and still going strong, and holding accuracy...
I’m very stoked about it. It’s the lathe I’ve been looking for.
 
Remember, for the most part castings are used because they are cheaper than a weldment.

So draw up the casting in ATOM 3D expanded by about 5% and shrink the holes by 10%. Then 3D print it. Dip in plaster and use lost PLA to create an aluminum bronze version (scrap copper and aluminum as ingot material). Then machine the mounting holes etc.

Or glue the original casting back together with some epoxy. Use it as a pattern filling in areas that need to be bored to size after casting.
 
Remember, for the most part castings are used because they are cheaper than a weldment.

So draw up the casting in ATOM 3D expanded by about 5% and shrink the holes by 10%. Then 3D print it. Dip in plaster and use lost PLA to create an aluminum bronze version (scrap copper and aluminum as ingot material). Then machine the mounting holes etc.

Or glue the original casting back together with some epoxy. Use it as a pattern filling in areas that need to be bored to size after casting.
If only I knew someone with a foundry…
 
Br
Remember, for the most part castings are used because they are cheaper than a weldment.

So draw up the casting in ATOM 3D expanded by about 5% and shrink the holes by 10%. Then 3D print it. Dip in plaster and use lost PLA to create an aluminum bronze version (scrap copper and aluminum as ingot material). Then machine the mounting holes etc.

Or glue the original casting back together with some epoxy. Use it as a pattern filling in areas that need to be bored to size after casting.
Braze it!
 
If only I knew someone with a foundry…

I have no access to casting either and even if I did I wouldn't trust any casting I made for that job. A good casting is like black magic.

So I'd make it from steel. Even some plates welded together and then machined afterward would be easier for me than a casting.

You could make a model to work toward by gluing the current parts together first. A welded and machined steel part would be better than anything anyone could cast anyway.
 
I think that's why I mentioned Weldment as the first option. At least that's what I meant. But for production of course castings are cheaper.
As for trusting a casting @Susquatch I think it all depends... My Gingery Lathe is doing fine. All the CNC conversion stuff on my mill is castings. I think if you had a foundry you'd find your castings would be great.

But since @David_R8 has a mill now I'd go the weldment direction for this.
 
My tentative plan at this point is to plasma cut three pieces of 1/2” plate; two for the arms that have the bores for the counter shaft and pivot and one piece to connect them together.
Notionally planning to drill and bore the holes for the counter shaft, the pivot and a pair of holes for dowel pins to maintain orientation all in one operation so they are lined up.
 
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