No down spouts either.
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DavidR8's shop shenanigans
- Thread starter DavidR8
- Start date
It does here. That rule is usually about storm water control so I'd guess it's the same there. Roof area matters.
No idea really. But I paced it out this afternoon and it won't be any closer to the road than the front of the neighbour's house.
When I lived in Calgary all overhangs including eaves and cantilevers counted.
BMW Rider
Super User
Not sure if the rules have changed since 2013 when I added onto my garage, but at that time the ground footprint was what was measured. The footprint was the actual foundation coverage not including overhangs. The exception is the veranda on the front of our house which has foundation support brackets to carry the support columns and the overhang roof. It's measured in to the edge of the actual deck area.
FWIW, I was still way below the lot coverage numbers but ran into issues with the development permit due to the footprint comparison between the house and proposed garage sizes. The house being a two-story, has a much smaller footprint than its total square footage. In the end I had to appeal the decision and ended up with a smaller addition than I had wanted initially. The concern they noted was that the garage would look too large on the lot by comparison to the house - it does not, they are far enough apart that there is plenty of open area to make a visual break. I regained some of the square footage with a garden shed to the side of the garage to house all the yard tools. No restriction on that so long as it's under 100 sq ft and non permanent foundation.
Hey John, I think part of the confusion stems from the fact that there are usually three different things covered by bylaws in most jurisdictions. This is my understanding.
One area of regulation is the size of the building structure. The norm used to be 110 ft2 for sheds without a building permit. That is changing. The latest federal guidelines are 166 ft2 which allows a 50% bigger shed. Most jurisdictions are in the process of adopting the federal guidelines. These guidelines apply to the outside perimeter of the structure which includes posts. They don't usually apply to the roof or eves or canopies.
The second is appearance and proximity to the lot lines. These bi-laws are designed to prevent individuals from building things that intrude on the rights of their neighbours.
The third is drainage. I believe that's the one you are referring to when you mention 45%. These bi-laws are intended to prevent construction of structures that overload the storm water drainage system. In this case, it's the entire footprint of the roof and eves troughs that matter. Since a roof is not permeable like soil or grass, they can much more easily overload the municipal drainage system. So the typical municipality limits the area that can be covered by roofs and sometimes even by sidewalks and parking lots. Flood sensitive areas often have more stringent restrictions.
Bottom line is that you have to check all three areas of regulation not just one or the other.
I hope that helps.
Dabbler
ersatz engineer
When I was contracting, it was the footprint of the building only (in Calgary).
You will have to work closely with the Planning department in any event, and they will scrutinize your drawings thoroughly. They are all nice guys until they are convinced you are doing something shady. There are also 2 firms in Calgary that deal with the process of getting through all the red tape.
Caveat: I've never used them. One of my neighbours has, and I'm very uneasy about recommending them.
If you have a general contractor, he will take care of all this, for his fee, of course.
Second modifier: Variances can be had for a reasonable fee, but the process takes about 6 months longer. They will assess the neighbourhood context and put forward the variance to council. Almost every teardown/rebuild in my neighborhood has had at least one variance...
Dabbler
ersatz engineer
it is necessarily complex everywhere. But you have it far worse than we do. It only gets complicated here if you 100% self build without a GC.
Great thoughts everyone thank you.
I want this addition to be economical. Only build 3 walls and a roof. I’m not sure about a car/vehicle door. Maybe not. And the floor. Can I not pour concrete and do something else? Packed sand and gravel and then a layer of sidewalk pavers? The big concrete ones? Or even the brick kind? I understand I probably can’t roll any machines around. This would be work space for projects and the equipment would largely stay in the original garage. What about using wood? Tongue and groove one inch plywood or OSB? Anybody done this?
I want this addition to be economical. Only build 3 walls and a roof. I’m not sure about a car/vehicle door. Maybe not. And the floor. Can I not pour concrete and do something else? Packed sand and gravel and then a layer of sidewalk pavers? The big concrete ones? Or even the brick kind? I understand I probably can’t roll any machines around. This would be work space for projects and the equipment would largely stay in the original garage. What about using wood? Tongue and groove one inch plywood or OSB? Anybody done this?
Mine would be heated and I would have a pad poured. In for a penny, in for a pound
Chicken lights
Forum Pony Express Driver
I built a storage shed at my last place. Put gravel down on the grass, then framed floor rafters out of 2x6 right onto the gravel. Plywood on top of that for a floor. Stick framed the walls with just a simple one slope roof, then plywood sheeting for walls and roof, I don’t even remember if I shingled it. I might’ve. Never did have a real door, the piece of plywood I cut out for the door frame opening, I just screwed that to 2x4’s scabbed to the door frame. It did me fine for 4-5 years, nothing rotted or fell apart. Nothing OSB or pressure treated. I guess it depends on how long you want to use it for, it was the cheapest way to get 120 sq ft of inside storage at the time for me
I received some parts necessary to finish up the wiring on the K40 rebuild. Some JST plugs and terminal thingys, shielded single pair stranded cable and a PA-09 crimper.
Pulled off the old wiring using my fancy new soldering iron, put on new cables, ran them into the enclosure (such as it is) and did the plug terminations. I had not put on JST plugs before so did a few practice one first. Definitely a bit of a trick to it.
Got them on and plugged into the board. Plugged in the mains power, 24v supply and connected the USB to the computer. It is set to auto-home at the start and the carriage promptly crashed into the end of the gantry.
Did some diagnostics in the console and discovered that I'd plugged the limit switches into the wrong sockets. Swapped them and presto, perfect homing cycle.
Next step is to connect the cooling water up, fit the mirrors and get everything aligned.
Oh and I assembled the hacksaw blade bed. No pics of that tonight but will shoot one tomorrow.
Pulled off the old wiring using my fancy new soldering iron, put on new cables, ran them into the enclosure (such as it is) and did the plug terminations. I had not put on JST plugs before so did a few practice one first. Definitely a bit of a trick to it.
Got them on and plugged into the board. Plugged in the mains power, 24v supply and connected the USB to the computer. It is set to auto-home at the start and the carriage promptly crashed into the end of the gantry.
Did some diagnostics in the console and discovered that I'd plugged the limit switches into the wrong sockets. Swapped them and presto, perfect homing cycle.
Next step is to connect the cooling water up, fit the mirrors and get everything aligned.
Oh and I assembled the hacksaw blade bed. No pics of that tonight but will shoot one tomorrow.
These are the ones I bought. Fit perfectly.
This is a diagram from the manual for my board
That's great you found supply. Just as background (I am no expert) JST stands for Japan Solderless Terminal. And behind that are multitudes of types & subtypes with specific dimensions & other standards. So when you hear someone say 'use a JST' that's like saying 'use a nut'. More data required. Where things got all twisted up at least in RC/hobby stuff I'm more familiar with is offshore suppliers made knock-offs that deviated from the standards. Sometimes it was QC & sometimes seems like they just don't care. Could be materials or pin diameters, housing dimensions, associated wire gauge.... Because they are often unmarked or marks don't correspond to more established standards you don't really know what you're getting other than an eyeball test. So then it became a game of buy the deviant because it better fit my existing deviant.