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Daily Shop Improvement
- Thread starter Janger
- Start date
Jeeze John...…. Pics man Pics.... I can't fathom how you managed to create a largish open space in the middle of all that stuff with out moving stuff out of there
AND come to think about it now.... did you guys stuff that shaper in there
Craig
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Knocked off another to-do item today...….
I can't use this slot in my bandsaw vice jaw since installing the extended jaws so I made up a filler piece to prevent the slot from being used. Also, I installed my extended jaws just a little too close to the blade (as in touching) so I milled 0.1" off the nose of both.
Hope everyone is staying healthy and sane.
Craig
I can't use this slot in my bandsaw vice jaw since installing the extended jaws so I made up a filler piece to prevent the slot from being used. Also, I installed my extended jaws just a little too close to the blade (as in touching) so I milled 0.1" off the nose of both.
Hope everyone is staying healthy and sane.
Craig
Dabbler
ersatz engineer
John is very skilled. I provided some grunt. We made another shelf and moved a bunch of stuff onto it. We also moved a few carts around and nested them into nooks and crannies.
I'm sitting at 1/8" now, but I trimmed off a little more than I intended to LOL. 1/16" would have been ideal I think.
Spacer was more for convenience that safety and I just discovered that it falls right through the table slot if you turn the jaw 90 deg. Ohhhh Well.
Fabricator I am not.
Craig
The fix for this is too easy so hopefully you can follow my thinking. Make a thin plate that will fasten to the left side of your washer and bolt. Looking down it should fit across and rest on the flat edges of the rear jaw washer and bolt opening. Won't fall through no mater what angle its in. Then fasten the thin plate on the spacer with one or two smallish cap screw. I see no reason why that wouldn't solve the problem and whenever you want to remove the spacer simply lift up on the thin plate. Bill
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Chicken lights
Forum Pony Express Driver
Went from a 1/4hp 6” grinder to a 1/2hp 8” grinder. The wire wheel on the 6” was worn down to a nub, so, time to make the swap.
DPittman
Ultra Member
I've got a very similar 8" grinder mine says "craftsman" on it but I suspect it came out of the same factory. With mine it is important not to do any grinding until the motor hits full speed. It seems that the starter? Of the motor will keep kicking out before the motor hits top speed if you start grinding before it hits top speed freely on its own. I like the grinder and it has been good. Its done lots of grinding in the 25+- years or so that I've owned it.
Chicken lights
Forum Pony Express Driver
That was a garage sale find some 8-10 years ago, if memory serves me (which, frequently my memory lets me down)
Here's a grinder question for you guys.
When torqueing the nut on a wheel how tight is tight enough? I discovered that the nuts on each wheel aren't opposing threads, so holding one while tightening the other doesn't accomplish anything. If you hold the wheel and tighten the nut eventually the shaft just spins in the wheel. I can only assume that's tight enough..... but?
Craig
When torqueing the nut on a wheel how tight is tight enough? I discovered that the nuts on each wheel aren't opposing threads, so holding one while tightening the other doesn't accomplish anything. If you hold the wheel and tighten the nut eventually the shaft just spins in the wheel. I can only assume that's tight enough..... but?
Craig
DPittman
Ultra Member
I believe its like tightening the nut on a tablesaw....no need to reef on it, all forces from running it only try to tighten it up further and not to loosen.
I had the same issue with my PA 3/4 HP model w/ 8" wheels. I run a stone on one side and a wire brush the other. I wrap a piece of rubber around the remaining 1/4" of thread I can see on one shaft, then vice grip it. Then I can tighten the other side. The problem stumped me for a while too as there is no spring loaded shaft stop like on a grinder. Surprisingly, you don't really have to torque the heck out of it. Never put a torque wrench on it, but it can't be more than 35 lbs. I'm guessing.
JohnnyTK
Active Member
Working on getting the last wall insulated and then drywall up on walls. Ceiling is going to have to wait until I can get a roofer in as I think the roofer did not put any paper under the top course of shingles as it was leaking straight across the roof line. One wall has OSB board on it and I want to TIG in here, so not sure if I will remove and replace with some drywall. I really just want to get the stuff unpacked and being used.
Another option is concrete backer board on top of it. Just make sure to mud the seams.
Did the nasty deed today...I actually cleaned up my off-cut rack. Longer tubing hung from ceiling or kept in shed, which just leaves my 300 or 400 hundred lbs. scrap bucket left to clean up. I'll bet I have 150 lbs of scrap ready to go to the yard in the back of my truck already.
I honestly didn't think I'd ever be motivated enough to tidy up this rack. On the other side I keep my sheet stock. It looks, well, kind of organized I think.
Where are you guys taking scrap now????
I honestly didn't think I'd ever be motivated enough to tidy up this rack. On the other side I keep my sheet stock. It looks, well, kind of organized I think.
Where are you guys taking scrap now????
JohnnyTK
Active Member
Have 21 feet of wall to do, but think I will do the welding area around the table with that. Might just pull the OSB down. I use to mig in my old place but that was much larger and had s steel clad walls, no mig in this one at it is attached to the house and has other stuff stored on the opposite side. So plan to learn TIG.
Is there a start thread for this? What are you finishing?