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Collet Chuck information

YYCHM

(Craig)
Premium Member
I am looking to add a D1-3 ER32 collet chuck to my SM 10" Utilathe. I already have a full set of metric collets for my and an chuck for my wood lathe. Because I use these collets almost exclusively in my pen making, I would like to have a dedicated D1-3 chuck.

Here is one solution for you.

https://usa.banggood.com/C20-ER32-5...MImabs5fCG8gIV9yCtBh0xdAWzEAQYAyABEgIkx_D_BwE

https://www.amazon.ca/Utoolmart-Clamping-0-015mm-Precision-Collect/dp/B07XL7ZL6J

https://www.amazon.ca/HHIP-3901-504...ocphy=9001310&hvtargid=pla-571077736015&psc=1
 
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PeterT

Ultra Member
Premium Member
Ah good link - a direct mound D1-3 to ER40. I think he was looking for ER32 though, maybe its available?
The only downside to these direct mount is if the have any runout from factory, you are stuck, no micro adjustments. But if a bolt-up loosens over time you have to recalibrate, Choose your poison. Depends how accurate you want to be & how much work you want to put into an assembly.
 

YYCHM

(Craig)
Premium Member
Ah good link - a direct mound D1-3 to ER40. I think he was looking for ER32 though, maybe its available?
The only downside to these direct mount is if the have any runout from factory, you are stuck, no micro adjustments. But if a bolt-up loosens over time you have to recalibrate, Choose your poison. Depends how accurate you want to be & how much work you want to put into an assembly.

Try to find a D1-3 ER32 chuck. I couldn't.
 
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darrin1200

Darrin
Try to find a D1-3 ER32 chuck. I couldn't.

Thanks for the links Craig. I couldn’t find one either. While I wouldn’t mind upgrading to Er40, the cost is deterring me right now. I already have a full set of ER32 collets.

Ah good link - a direct mound D1-3 to ER40. I think he was looking for ER32 though, maybe its available?
The only downside to these direct mount is if the have any runout from factory, you are stuck, no micro adjustments. But if a bolt-up loosens over time you have to recalibrate, Choose your poison. Depends how accurate you want to be & how much work you want to put into an assembly.

You make a good point Peter. I am probably better off fitting the chuck to backplate myself.
I am assuming, that I would mount the backplate on my lathe, then turn the face down to a snug fit in the chucks recess. Then mark and drill the holes for the cap screws. That way, I should just about eliminate the chance of excess runout.
 

YYCHM

(Craig)
Premium Member
Thanks for the links Craig. I couldn’t find one either. While I wouldn’t mind upgrading to Er40, the cost is deterring me right now. I already have a full set of ER32 collets.

How often would you need your 4J v.s. the ER32? An inexpensive option is to simply dial in that straight arbor ER32 in your 4J and leave it that way.

This would probably mount to the D1-3 chuck mounting plate you found.

https://www.amazon.ca/ER32-125mm-ER...+er32+collet+chuck&qid=1627574167&sr=8-6&th=1

Try searching for 125mm ER32 collet chuck.....
 
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darrin1200

Darrin
@YYCHM
Craig, I currently have a straight Er32 chuck mounted in my 4J. That’s why I would like a dedicated chuck, to free up my 4J.

That linked chuck may work. The picture is to small on my phone to read the measurements, but I will check again at home and compare it to the accusize chuck plate.
 

Brent H

Ultra Member
D882BB41-D4D6-405B-A472-2C7AD3AF9C35.png
A8D2FEAE-F8EC-44B7-AA76-B9BEE7793553.png
Those are the two plates I used to make up the collet chuck I have. As I mentioned in our PM, I needed to drill the holes to match after machining the face plate to the collet plate. Carefully check the bolt pattern layout as one of the threaded holes in the collet plate was off from 120° by a bit.
 

PeterT

Ultra Member
Premium Member
I am assuming, that I would mount the backplate on my lathe, then turn the face down to a snug fit in the chucks recess. Then mark and drill the holes for the cap screws. That way, I should just about eliminate the chance of excess runout.

In a perfect world, yes. In a real world of compensating for quality issues at this price point, maybe not. There are people who did exactly as you've outlined only to discover that the chuck runout was not exactly concentric with the backplate recess circle (factory issue). So machining the backplate boss perfect can still result in some runout. You could certainly start that way & hope you got a Friday chuck, not a Monday chuck & you're home free. But if you discovered 0.003" runout with the mounted assembly, then only option is take that amount off the backplate boss, dial it in & basically adjust/tighten the bolts so it stays put. Some people find this holds up over time & others claim it needs an occasional tweak. If you don't care about this kind of runout for your work right now, may not be worth the effort.

There are chuck systems that have adjustable set screws to dial in concentricity but its kind of a dedicated chuck + backplate system, both the chuck & backplate are specific to this. Bison calls theirs Set-Tru, Gator calls theirs Tech-True, both I think are adaptations of the original Buck chuck expired patent... but I digress

One thing I was wondering to myself is make it a bit loose as described, then on the final bolt up, use a slow cure metal grouting epoxy in the annular gap once dialed in perfect. Then theoretically the chuck can't slide & migrate off path. I just don't know if this would ever come apart so bit of risk there.
 
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darrin1200

Darrin
In a perfect world, yes. In a real world of compensating for quality issues at this price point, maybe not. There are people who did exactly as you've outlined only to discover that the chuck side runout was not exactly concentric with the backplate recess (factory issue). So machining the backplate boss perfect can still result in some runout. You could certainly start that way & hope you got a Friday chuck, not a Monday chuck & you're home free. But if you discovered 0.003" runout with the mounted assembly, then only option is take that amount off the backplate boss, dial it in & basically adjust/tighten the bolts so it stays put. Some people find this holds up over time & others claim it needs an occasional tweak. If you don't care about this kind of runout for your work right now, may not be worth the effort.

There are chuck systems that have adjustable set screws to dial in concentricity but its kind of a dedicated chuck + backplate system, both the chuck & backplate are specific to this. Bison calls theirs Set-Tru, Gator calls theirs Tech-True, both I think are adaptations of the original Buck chuck expired patent... but I digress

One thing I was wondering to myself is make it a bit loose as described, then on the final bolt up, use a slow cure metal grouting epoxy in the annular gap once dialed in perfect. Then theoretically the chuck can't slide & migrate off path. I just don't know if this would ever come apart so bit of risk there.


I think I have decided to go in the direction Brent suggests, but I am considering the $112 Accusize chuck over the $68 Amazon chuck for the reason you describe. Accusize says it's concetricity is within .0002". Maybe worth the extra $42.
 

John Conroy

member
Premium Member
A few years back I ordered an ER-32 to R8 collet chuck with a full set of collets from Accusize. The promised max runout of .0002" was off by a factor of 10. It measured .002". When I complained they didn't want to replace it, they asked that it be returned for a refund. I got the impression they thought I was too fussy. I am OK with buying stuff like BXA tool holders for my lathe from them but I wouldn't hold my breath on the accuracy claims of precision components.
 
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