Meh. My ex went grey in her 20's, dyed it religiously, until one of her co-workers casually mentioned that her silver roots were amazing, and that she would die to have those...
It's apparently, a matter of perspective and feedback. Who knew? LOL!
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Cheap Bstrd Thread
- Thread starter Janger
- Start date
It's apparently, a matter of perspective and feedback. Who knew? LOL!
I got one of those multi-punch things for a buck at a flea market, to punch holes in small steam engine paper gaskets. Not worth even a buck: another CB fail.
I guess my multi hole punch pliers were a good deal, I have had them over 50 years. No idea what I paid for them, but they were new. Punched many a hole, in leather, gasket paper, rubber, and light gauge plastic. So what’s this about putting more holes in a belt, generally the leather shrinks (LOL) and ain’t no place for more holes! May need to get one of them there belts that can add more pieces too.
Wife somewhat worried about her hair, then when she lost it all and it later came back, not so much.
Wife somewhat worried about her hair, then when she lost it all and it later came back, not so much.
Elektrishun
Ultra Member
You likely got your money's worth, at a buck...
How hard did you actually look at it before you paid that? Gotta figure, based on your results, not very long. Broken, damaged, or otherwise not-usable tools, usually sell pretty cheap!
Just sayin'. Maybe it was you, not the tool you bought.
Well, no. Whether it was the punch thing or me, I didn't get the anticipated results, so the buck was indeed wasted.
Gonna still go with that it was on you, not the tool.
A buck doesn't buy much education, but you probably got more than you paid out of that buck! LOL!
Elektrishun
Ultra Member
Today I replaced the LED backlights for a 5-6 year old Roku TV. Bought the 4 strips through AliExpress. Tried to find a more local source but the model of lights for my TV were always out of stock.
This was my first attempt at such a repair. Pretty straight forward in the troubleshooting and repair steps. There is only one step I would do differently next time - cut through the reflective paper vs removing it to get the LEDs.
Now, I will remount it to the wall, reconnect the set top box, and see if the picture quality is acceptable.
This was my first attempt at such a repair. Pretty straight forward in the troubleshooting and repair steps. There is only one step I would do differently next time - cut through the reflective paper vs removing it to get the LEDs.
Now, I will remount it to the wall, reconnect the set top box, and see if the picture quality is acceptable.
Elektrishun
Ultra Member
Picture is acceptable.
There is a little dark shading that can be noticed at the edges in a couple spots. The imperfect reflective paper removal/re-install is likely the cause. But not enough of an issue to distract from the image.
IMO $40 repair is a success.
There is a little dark shading that can be noticed at the edges in a couple spots. The imperfect reflective paper removal/re-install is likely the cause. But not enough of an issue to distract from the image.
IMO $40 repair is a success.
Elektrishun
Ultra Member
After several years of the computer sitting idle I finally decided to do something with my 2010 iMac. This is a fantastic piece of hardware that recently I thought of getting rid of because it was so limited in it's capabilities. Thanks Apple. Today after installing Lubuntu (lightweight version of Ubuntu) new life has been given to this computer. Looks good, runs very snappy like the old Mac OS days, and I have a software OS that is supported.
There was a few hurdles, as always, but a little perseverance and a lot of patience got it done.
Cost = free
Elektrishun
Ultra Member
Recently purchased 2 Fluke 8050A bench top Digital Multimeters for $50. Was shown that they power "ON" but displays would fade out quickly. Read online that this is a common failure for these meters. After a quick inspection I purchased enough electrolytic capacitors to replace all for both meters = $20 (got a few more than needed). Chose one of the meters, replaced all the capacitors, turned it "ON", and same issue with display. Both meters have the rechargeable battery option but this one's batteries and battery holders were missing. Without batteries they won't work. More research and I found options for modifying the circuit board so that it can run off AC power only. Either that or find batteries. I decided to stay in character and go the cheap route. Followed this gentleman's version of the circuit mod but with a little more finesse (he even admits his mod was a little rough looking):
It works! Followed the Fluke manual and did some basic voltage checks at various test points. All were very close to spec. I will continue to do some not very scientific tests to see how it compares to my other meters.
Working vintage meter = $35.
Now, I will see what I can do with meter #2.
It works! Followed the Fluke manual and did some basic voltage checks at various test points. All were very close to spec. I will continue to do some not very scientific tests to see how it compares to my other meters.
Working vintage meter = $35.
Now, I will see what I can do with meter #2.
skippyelwell
Ultra Member
You could fix it as well then sell it to me for $35😉 After all, I'm a cheap bastard too, so that kind of makes us like brothers.
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Elektrishun
Ultra Member
Sell it to you?
If you're a true cheap b*st*rd you should've asked to "borrow" it and then asked whether or not an extension cord will reach from my place to yours.😀
Elektrishun
Ultra Member
Microwave repair, not mine, commercial model. Worth about $1000 brand new with taxes included. Disappointing flimsy construction. Very little information available.
Fuse was blowing RANDOMLY only when CLOSING the door. I used up 3 fuses before I figured out what the issue appears to be.
The manufacturer suggested repair was to replace the door switches, a now obsolete relay on the PCB, and the fuse🙄 (there is a decal on top of the microwave, beneath the outer metal cover, listing the parts to replace if the fuse blows when opening/closing the door). But why replace switches or anything else until you can verify that something has failed or is at least not operating consistently? After testing the switches numerous times in numerous ways there was no reason to replace them - they worked!
Looked at the sequence of operation for the switches and door alignment. Door was a little wiggly when I first got it. Maybe enough that occasionally the sequence of operation for the 3 switches was disrupted? These were not quick determinations. Research was done beforehand about how microwave Interlock and Monitor switches are supposed to work in a specific sequence (no service manual could be found so I used general information from others manufacturer's service manuals to help). Then a lot of time observing how this model's switches appeared to be working.
Tested and observed the door closing as slowly as I could and watched the switches operate while listening for the "clicks". As well, connected DMM's to each switch set to continuity but preferred using an analog meter because it gave a better visual for the response time. Then I adjusted the door latch tightness with the door closed. Left about a 1/32" gap.
I have been testing the microwave all day, running it at different settings, opening and closing the door, checking that it is heating (dish of water), and it keeps working!
Cost = $18.00 for 5 fuses
(I'm not the cheap b*st*rd in this case. The guy who will be paying me is.)
Fuse was blowing RANDOMLY only when CLOSING the door. I used up 3 fuses before I figured out what the issue appears to be.
The manufacturer suggested repair was to replace the door switches, a now obsolete relay on the PCB, and the fuse🙄 (there is a decal on top of the microwave, beneath the outer metal cover, listing the parts to replace if the fuse blows when opening/closing the door). But why replace switches or anything else until you can verify that something has failed or is at least not operating consistently? After testing the switches numerous times in numerous ways there was no reason to replace them - they worked!
Looked at the sequence of operation for the switches and door alignment. Door was a little wiggly when I first got it. Maybe enough that occasionally the sequence of operation for the 3 switches was disrupted? These were not quick determinations. Research was done beforehand about how microwave Interlock and Monitor switches are supposed to work in a specific sequence (no service manual could be found so I used general information from others manufacturer's service manuals to help). Then a lot of time observing how this model's switches appeared to be working.
Tested and observed the door closing as slowly as I could and watched the switches operate while listening for the "clicks". As well, connected DMM's to each switch set to continuity but preferred using an analog meter because it gave a better visual for the response time. Then I adjusted the door latch tightness with the door closed. Left about a 1/32" gap.
I have been testing the microwave all day, running it at different settings, opening and closing the door, checking that it is heating (dish of water), and it keeps working!
Cost = $18.00 for 5 fuses
(I'm not the cheap b*st*rd in this case. The guy who will be paying me is.)
If there ever was a red flag huh ?
Lightspeed Mike
Super User
My John Deere riding mower, the deck has 3 idler pulleys. I noticed that 2 of them the bearings weren't going to last another year. The pulleys are about $25 each from A-Z.
A close look shows that they are just 6203 bearings, common as dirt.
Drill out 8 rivets (on the milling machine, of course), replace with bearings from PA, 8 1/4" bolts and lock nuts. Good to go.
If I was really cheap, I should have waited until they were on sale again. But it was a matter of being nearby.
A close look shows that they are just 6203 bearings, common as dirt.
Drill out 8 rivets (on the milling machine, of course), replace with bearings from PA, 8 1/4" bolts and lock nuts. Good to go.
If I was really cheap, I should have waited until they were on sale again. But it was a matter of being nearby.
What size is your deck?
Lightspeed Mike
Super User
54"