BaitMaster
Ultra Member
Also attached a picture of my pin of shame.
Ive built a few small things with her. Overall, very pleased.
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BaitMaster’s (Work) Bench
- Thread starter BaitMaster
- Start date
Also attached a picture of my pin of shame.
Ive built a few small things with her. Overall, very pleased.
BaitMaster
Ultra Member
Almost?
Likely too clean.
BaitMaster
Ultra Member
Come on there’s swarf in the chip pan if you look close!
What I was thinking, too. Need a few nicks, scratches, etc.
BaitMaster
Ultra Member
Spotless!
I have an older version, but it is missing the traveling motor control. Does the lever on the saddle do exactly the same as the fwd and rev buttons, and return to center when you let go? Is forward up or down?
BaitMaster
Ultra Member
The carriage motor control is the same as a Rev/fwd button. “Down” is forward, “up” is reverse.
They latch in each position.
The carriage mounted motor control is basically standard practice on larger lathes….
It takes some getting used to coming from my utilathe.
On mine, they are not the same. The headstock switches define the direction of the leadscrew as it relates to the spindle but do not change the spindle. Only the lever on the carriage sets the spindle direction. Either counterclockwise with lever down or clockwise with lever up.
Essentially, the carriage lever controls the motor direction, and the headstock throws an idler gear to set the leadscrew direction.
BaitMaster
Ultra Member
He got me for a couple extra bucks for this but I didn’t really care about it. Mostly wanted the other stuff he threw in….
I feel like I don’t know enough about machining to have one of these… I don’t know if it’s a good one or not.
Doesn’t have any documents so I know that much.
The height gauge is a Mitu….. so I know that’s decent.
BaitMaster
Ultra Member
Obviously, this one is cast iron. I’ve heard granite is better but hey, this one’s mine lol.
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Looks more like flaking than scraping. But I'm no expert on either one.
I figure you easily got your money's worth with the Mitutoyo Height Gauge.
The block might be better used in the garden or as a stepping stone at the back door.
If I were you, I'd just go get a basic busy bee block to learn on. They will do most of what you would want to do for a while. You are still loads of money in the bank!
I figure you easily got your money's worth with the Mitutoyo Height Gauge.
The block might be better used in the garden or as a stepping stone at the back door.
If I were you, I'd just go get a basic busy bee block to learn on. They will do most of what you would want to do for a while. You are still loads of money in the bank!
BaitMaster
Ultra Member
Update on the crash/ pin of shame:
So I was using my lathe today to make a few parts.
I was cranking the carriage hand wheel by hand, and all of a sudden there was a tough spot.
Now I immediately began investigating since that was not good.
I found that suddenly it was tough then loose then tough then loose. So I start looking at the gear and rack….
Now the previous owner had used grease for certain things where it should have been oil, one was the rack.
I looked at the drive gear behind the carriage and found grease mixed with swarf. So every revolution of the gear a piece of swarf was forced under the rack!!!
This was the first time I noticed this while hand feeding… and it didn’t happen every time even close before… but the stars were aligned.
I should have checked before.
I almost guarantee that’s what it was. A long piece of swarf, sucked into the rack, creating a bunch of load on the lead screw, causing it to be hard to disengage the half nut….
Pretty sure at least, makes alot more sense to me.
So I was using my lathe today to make a few parts.
I was cranking the carriage hand wheel by hand, and all of a sudden there was a tough spot.
Now I immediately began investigating since that was not good.
I found that suddenly it was tough then loose then tough then loose. So I start looking at the gear and rack….
Now the previous owner had used grease for certain things where it should have been oil, one was the rack.
I looked at the drive gear behind the carriage and found grease mixed with swarf. So every revolution of the gear a piece of swarf was forced under the rack!!!
This was the first time I noticed this while hand feeding… and it didn’t happen every time even close before… but the stars were aligned.
I should have checked before.
I almost guarantee that’s what it was. A long piece of swarf, sucked into the rack, creating a bunch of load on the lead screw, causing it to be hard to disengage the half nut….
Pretty sure at least, makes alot more sense to me.
Thanks for explaining the action of the lever @BaitMaster ! Does the "latch"ing happen because the switch is on the circular part of the switch cam? My 13x40 is about a 2000 and appears to have once had one. I'm guessing it was damaged in transport and removed. The stop button feels a long way away, even with a 1' workpiece, so I'd like to find or recreate the system.
On a side note, the previous owner fitted a brake (solenoid actuated hydraulic bicycle disk brake) that works when you hit the stop button.
I am nursing a really bad cold so my brain is slow, and my thinking is affected by the cold meds and oxygen deprivation.
With that overall caveat, I'm not so sure of all that. Please allow me to think out loud.
When you broke your pin, you were threading and using the half nut to engage the feed process, right?
See, I already forgot why I think that matters......
Basically, I'm trying to figure out why any pre-condition (swarf, turning the carriage wheel, etc,) should make it difficult to disengage the half nut. How does the difficulty arise?
Ya, swarf or even cutting load can make it difficult to progress (advance the carriage), load the gear train, etc. But loading the system shouldn't make it hard to disengage the drive. If anything, it should make it easier.
Sorry, lost my train of thought again. Can someone with a clear mind jump in here and help out?
Anyway, nice find. Clean out the swarf and grease, oil properly, and carry on.
BaitMaster
Ultra Member
If I add resistance to the carriage hand wheel the half nut gets very difficult to release. Less since I adjusted the gib and oiled the dovetails, but still noticeably.
That seems odd to me. I don't think mine is like that. Now you have me wondering what the norm's are and why yours might be like that.
No way I could ever get to the shop today though.
historicalarms
Ultra Member
If you look on the bottom photo in post #221 you can see the forward-off-reverse mechanism plainly, it is the bottom rod of the three. The operating handle is mounted on the far right-bottom of the apron and the switch you wanting is inside the small square box at fare left of that rod where it enters the transmission gear box. if your lathe doesnt have all that still on it, it should have.
That switch is the one and only breakdown my lathe has had in its 20 yrs and that was in the first month of use. It is a multi layer plastic affair ( 4 layers I think) that I think if some of the 3D printer guys had a model to copy could be easily done. I had to get the venders i bought the machine from to rob a new switch off another floor model to get me back going again, 3 months later that floor model was still in the shop waiting for that switch. Probably the same switch is used today in all the Taiwanese machines so should be available.