I spent today puttering on the new lathe. I don't plan to ever use flood coolant so I stripped the plumbing and pump out of the base to make room for storage.
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The bracket for the lamp and coolant nozzle looked like it was installed by a blind person. The mounting holes were drilled in the wrong locations and the whole thing was an eyesore and in the way if using the taper attachment. I reloacted the lamp and got rid of the bracket to clean things up. I'll have to just put screws in the extra holes where the bracket was. The cables for the dro scales were a mess also so I'm working on a solution to clean that up too. I'll post some pics of the finished product later.
I disassembled both chucks and cleaned out all the grit and lubed them up with machine oil. These are both very nicely made chucks and operate realy smoothly once cleaned
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I discovered today that the spindle wouldn't run in reverse. It turned out that the screws holding the switch had come loose so it was an easy fix. The mounting post for the qctp was a joke with a thin round disc slid into the compound. I made the first chips by installing the 4 way tool post turning the shinny little disc off and then welded the qctp post to the base from the 4 way. It turned out well. Pics later.
Nice posts John. On my modern 14x40 the taper adjustment angle screw is also intertwined with the locking mechanism. It's a poor design and prevents you from adjusting the angle to a fine level of precision. That is why I ended up using that plastic dial indicator holder on the compound instead. Is your taper adjustment on the new lathe better?
Oh that looks good! I will have to study that a bit closer when I have time to see if that can be done to my little lathe which has always had a piss-poor carriage lock. Thanks for sharing your experience.There are a few more detail items I feel need to be improved before I consider this lathe ready to go to work. The carriage lock was very sloppy, a 10mm bolt through an almost 11mm hole drilled in the carriage and threaded into an L shaped block that had about .040" clearance to the side of the machine way. You can see the 10mm socket head bolt at the bottom of this pic.View attachment 4623
I took a page from PeterT's list of improvements on his lathe for the fix. I used a new 27/64" (.421) to clean up the hole to a consistant diameter for it's entire depth. I machined a stud .421" in diameter to be a sliding fit into the hole and added M10 threads to both ends. Then I flipped over the L shaped block and drilled and tapped it M10 (in the proper location unlike how it was done before) and added a hardened washer and stainless acorn nut to the top for a very snug fitting lock with no slop.
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A pretty simple fix but its nice that the carriage doesn't move when the lock is applied anymore.
More to come on the rest of the upgrades later.