Marc Moreau
Marc Moreau
Can't see the pictures ?
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9" SM Utilathe Restoration
- Thread starter YYCHM
- Start date
So when the brass sleeve I was making grabbed the drill bit the chuck taper slipped.
The taper galled and chewed up the tail stock spindle bore AGAIN. I guess new chuck tapers are in order.
I reamed out the spindle damage and trimmed it back again.
Having reamed, cut, and turned that spindle twice now I'm convinced that it's made of cast iron. The swarf produced sure looks like what you get when drilling cast iron.
Are these things typically made of cast iron? Seems kind of soft for this kind of application.
The taper galled and chewed up the tail stock spindle bore AGAIN. I guess new chuck tapers are in order.
I reamed out the spindle damage and trimmed it back again.
Having reamed, cut, and turned that spindle twice now I'm convinced that it's made of cast iron. The swarf produced sure looks like what you get when drilling cast iron.
Are these things typically made of cast iron? Seems kind of soft for this kind of application.
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Dabbler
ersatz engineer
Tom Kitta
Ultra Member
https://handycrowd.com/drilling-brass-the-easy-and-safe-way/
Here they have more pics of what Dabbler is explaining. Even has a video.
Here they have more pics of what Dabbler is explaining. Even has a video.
Johnwa
Ultra Member
Tom Kitta
Ultra Member
It is not so much the actual length that has to be precise but the angle for proper engagement with width smaller then max (or it sticks out) and equal or bigger then the min (or it will just not engage).
It happens that some Chinese stuff is not up to spec on the angles and concentricity.
It happens that some Chinese stuff is not up to spec on the angles and concentricity.
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Marc Moreau
Marc Moreau
No perfect nice pictures Thank You
trlvn
Ultra Member
I did a little searching and found some stuff like this:
https://www.banggood.com/MACHIFIT-M...-Cutter-Arbor-p-1596336.html?cur_warehouse=CN
It says the outside diameter is 22 mm (0.87 inches) and seems to be referred to as MS-22. I take it that there are other sizes? I couldn't find anything like a specification of the MS tapers or a chart with common sizes. Anybody?
The measurements that YYC quoted (0.66" to 0.59") equate to 16.75mm and 14.99mm. Does that mean he has an "MS-16.75" taper? That doesn't exactly roll off the tongue!
Craig T
Worked on that replacement tailstock spindle Brent H sent me today.
Can't believe I managed to mill the 1/8" slot in it without toasting the end mill.
Was a lot of passes at 0.005 per pass and a very slow feed rate. I'm running a mini-mill and I really don't think I could have accomplished it without a DRO.
Ended up the center hole in this brass sleeve I salvaged from the propane valve wasn't quite concentric with the OD.
I should have realized that would happen. Live and Learn
So the threaded sleeve I press fit to the spindle is a wee bit off, but, it doesn't appear to affect function.
I might re-do this part should I ever come across a suitable piece of brass. A better approach would have been to fit a solid plug to the spindle and then drill it with the spindle cucked in the lathe.
So now I have a nice new 4140 tailstock spindle that fits the tailstock better than the original by a long shot.
THANKS Brent!!!!
Can't believe I managed to mill the 1/8" slot in it without toasting the end mill.
Was a lot of passes at 0.005 per pass and a very slow feed rate. I'm running a mini-mill and I really don't think I could have accomplished it without a DRO.
Ended up the center hole in this brass sleeve I salvaged from the propane valve wasn't quite concentric with the OD.
I should have realized that would happen. Live and Learn
So the threaded sleeve I press fit to the spindle is a wee bit off, but, it doesn't appear to affect function.
I might re-do this part should I ever come across a suitable piece of brass. A better approach would have been to fit a solid plug to the spindle and then drill it with the spindle cucked in the lathe.
So now I have a nice new 4140 tailstock spindle that fits the tailstock better than the original by a long shot.
THANKS Brent!!!!
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Brent H
Ultra Member
Cool beans brother!
Glad it worked out! You may need to add a tap of the mallet to set the taper so things don't spin - the harder material seems to need a bit of a tap - so great you could turn that project into a winner! After I made it a bit small for my tail stock it was sort of in limbo.
Once I see how milling in the indexing goes I will send you some pics! Starting on parts and pieces for the steady and follow rest.......
Woo hoo!
Glad it worked out! You may need to add a tap of the mallet to set the taper so things don't spin - the harder material seems to need a bit of a tap - so great you could turn that project into a winner! After I made it a bit small for my tail stock it was sort of in limbo.
Once I see how milling in the indexing goes I will send you some pics! Starting on parts and pieces for the steady and follow rest.......
Woo hoo!
This headstock drive pulley keeps migrating away from the headstock. I diligently check the pulley lock screws to make sure they are tight, but it still moves. Today I found the pulley had migrated a good 1/4" (away from the headstock) from what I consider to be where it should be. Is this the drive belt system's way of telling me that it's out of alignment and where it settles is where it should be?
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"a set for a screw"? What is that?
"noise when out of alignment" Not really, seems to run smoother when in the position I think it should be in.
How does the pulley bore compare in size to the shaft? The set screw may be lifting the pulley off the shaft (because its bore is too large) and then you have the pulley ”walking” on the shaft. Joe Pie talks about that phenomenon wrt parts walking right out of a chuck. You can actually try this yourself: lightly clamp a tapered part into the 3J and wiggle it in a circular motion; you can get it to come right out of the chuck without ever undoing it.
Remedy of a oversized / tapered pulley bore would be to sleeve it for a tight sliding fit.
I believe what Bofobo means is a dimple (or small flat) in the shaft that the point of the set screw can sit in. It stops axial movement and also makes it easy to take the pulley off because there is not raised burr.
Remedy of a oversized / tapered pulley bore would be to sleeve it for a tight sliding fit.
I believe what Bofobo means is a dimple (or small flat) in the shaft that the point of the set screw can sit in. It stops axial movement and also makes it easy to take the pulley off because there is not raised burr.