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9" SM Utilathe Restoration
- Thread starter YYCHM
- Start date
Marc Moreau
Marc Moreau
I don't have thoses pulley mine on top have 2 and on the motor I have only a single.
The pulley set screw engages the shaft key. That shaft measures 0.625" (5/8"), the pully bore measures 0.626". It fits rather well. I just realized that the key has broken into two pieces. Could that have something to do with this?
@Brent H to the rescue..... he sent me a key with all the misc parts from the parts machine we canalized. Will see if this rectifies the issue.
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For sure. Depending where the setscrew was pushing on the key...
0.626 is a nice sliding fit - you should be good to go with the new key.
The set screw is located at the second sheave from the outboard side. Where it sets on the key is the mark nearest the break in the key. Obviously the key got switched 180 deg at some point in time hence the two contact marks. I applied Loctite to the screw when I replaced the key thanks.
Craig
Brent H
Ultra Member
@Marc Moreau - you should have a double pulley on the motor which will give you all the speeds properly. I had to make a new one for my lathe. It was a good project (see my 10" Utilathe restoration) . You could probably make one out of steel verses the cast iron one I made. I have the original broken one if you require measurements to make one?
@YYCHobbyMachinist : glad you have the spare key! when your pulley is on take a straight edge and verify that the upper and lower pulleys are in the same plane so the belt is riding nice and straight and not trying to pull in any direction.
@YYCHobbyMachinist : glad you have the spare key! when your pulley is on take a straight edge and verify that the upper and lower pulleys are in the same plane so the belt is riding nice and straight and not trying to pull in any direction.
Marc Moreau
Marc Moreau
Yes you could send the measurement ,are they hard to find ? I never did a job like that ?
Marc Moreau
Marc Moreau
Marc Moreau
Marc Moreau
I forget to tell I had cut the end of the motor shaft. The shaft was in contact when I was closing the cover.
Today I setup to turn between centers as I wanted to check my tailstock alignment.
First pass kind of says it all. Something is out, I'm turning a taper.
Over 5 1/2" there is a 0.024" discrepancy in the diameter of my test piece. 0.727" dia near the headstock to 0.703" dia at the tailstock.
Soo now, how do I go about figuring out in which plane(s) the tailstock is out? Do I need to purchase a test bar?
Craig
First pass kind of says it all. Something is out, I'm turning a taper.
Over 5 1/2" there is a 0.024" discrepancy in the diameter of my test piece. 0.727" dia near the headstock to 0.703" dia at the tailstock.
Soo now, how do I go about figuring out in which plane(s) the tailstock is out? Do I need to purchase a test bar?
Craig
Hi Craig, it seems that your tailstock is too far towards the operator. You need to move it away from you. I would start with about 12 thou ( use a dial indicator on the TS quill). Take another cut. Measure. Adjust TS by half the error until all taper is gone.
Well there you go. There is a witness mark on the tailstock casting that currently indicates exactly what you describe. I'll move her over and try again.
Thanks!
Craig
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Once you get the tail stock dialed in you will enjoy another bonus - much improved drilling accuracy when using the tail stock chuck which is misaligned by the same amount. If you have been seeing drill wobble or even breaking smallish drills & center drills, this is why. TS alignment is important.
That's exactly why I decided to check it! Was having all kinds of drill bit wobble.
Yes good job. Now that you know the drill, if you ever wanted to make a useful tool from basically scrap, I'm pretty confident the way I described a homebrew in post#6 would be perfectly acceptable.
https://canadianhobbymetalworkers.com/threads/edge-technology-alignment-bar.1963/#post-21275
With that tool you don't have to go through turning & cutting & measuring diameters. Just set it between centers, get a dial reading on the headstock disc, compare to tailstock disk., move the TS so it agrees. Its that simple. You can physically watch the dial displace to the target reading as you tweak the tailstock over & tighten it down (which is another source of error). Your TS may drift out of position over time, or if you ever consciously move it to cut tapers, its good to have quick & accurate way to restore co-axial alignment. As mentioned in that post, the longer you make your tool, the more inherently accurate it is all other things equal.
https://canadianhobbymetalworkers.com/threads/edge-technology-alignment-bar.1963/#post-21275
With that tool you don't have to go through turning & cutting & measuring diameters. Just set it between centers, get a dial reading on the headstock disc, compare to tailstock disk., move the TS so it agrees. Its that simple. You can physically watch the dial displace to the target reading as you tweak the tailstock over & tighten it down (which is another source of error). Your TS may drift out of position over time, or if you ever consciously move it to cut tapers, its good to have quick & accurate way to restore co-axial alignment. As mentioned in that post, the longer you make your tool, the more inherently accurate it is all other things equal.