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4x6 bandsaw $50

Grizzly recommends a grease for their similar sized saw.
https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g0622_m.pdf

Mobilux EP 2 Moly

My busybee saw has a bronze worm wheel and uses oil.


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This one has oil in it. I looked through a couple of online manuals for saws that look very similar (BB has one). They state change oil periodically , but don't describe how or what oil to use.

I have some of this kicking around from the 80's?

OIL1.JPG


OIL2.JPG
 
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I have some of that to but less than 10years old Some of the additives in gear oil can dissolve copper alloys. My worm wheel is brass or bronze so I’m not sure whether this is safe or not.
 
My research says no - gl-5 is the devil per the internet




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I found a good thread on copper friendly lubes.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2554764

GL-4 appears to be the answer.

That is a good site , but yet confusing . There seems to be two lines of thought, you either believe the gl specification supersedes (ie gl-5 is ok for gl-4) or you don't.

I decided that I don't believe that so that is why I started hunting for gl-4 only

If you find some , again, I'm interested




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My bandsaw doesn’t cut horribly out of square but it definitely doesn’t cut straight up an down.
Is that adjustable?
 
The blade guides can usually be turned to keep the blade straight. Put a carpenters square on the table and use the vertical part to gauge the blade alignment.
 
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The guy I bought this from, said he loosened those two bolts, because he was trying to cut on an angle for some reason. So the first thing I did was loosened those, and tried to make it as straight as possible
 
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I never thought to check that- I was assuming it was as far as it would go. Use a square from that against the blade?
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I’m assuming all of that is just to tension the blade?
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Those four nuts are on the top side of the blade guides. Those are adjustable somehow?
 
The ones circled in red adjust the pressure of the guide rollers on the blade. On mine they are ex centric, you loosen the nut then turn the stud to change. The ones circled in green should allow the guides to be rotated to twist the blade. You can get close with a square against the blade, but to get exact it’s a bit of trial and error.
There should also be a roller riding on the back edge of the blade. I don’t see it in your picture.
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