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4x6 bandsaw $50

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Also I noticed that’s broken. It looks like it was a stud and nut, or possibly a bolt and jam nut, that broke off so instead of fixing it nicely they just jammed the leftover back in as a bolt
 
Here’s a couple of pictures of mine. This one shows the roller on the top of the blade.
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This one shows the vertical adjustment bolt. It’s a pain to adjust because as soon as you loosen it the blade swings it to the one extreme. And then you have to guess how much to adjust it.
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The vertical square helps to adjust the blade guide to 90 degrees. Odd don’t have the rollers on top at the back of the blade.what keeps it from sliding up and away from the material.
 
Mine looks like johnwa's machine with the tri-cluster of bearings.

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I see now how to adjust the blade in the vertical.

Thanks, this thread has taught me something I didn't know before.
 
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Janger said:
The vertical square helps to adjust the blade guide to 90 degrees. Odd don’t have the rollers on top at the back of the blade.what keeps it from sliding up and away from the material.
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Nothing. Today, the blade would catch and jump up if it tried to take too much of a bite

I’m thinking this is a pretty low quality band saw, even at this level
 
It’s hard to tell if your guides are original or not. It does look like 2 of the bearings have rims on them that may serve the same purpose as the 3rd roller on mine.

Is the broken turn buckle meant to tension the belt?
That could explain the jumping.
 
Mine looks similar. The eccentric is machined into the axle. Its very subtle. As the axle is rotated within the casting, it displaces the bearing in & out relative to the blade. Its a fussy trial & error thing to set up because the nut is supposed to lock it into position, but of course can also rotate the stud. I'll have to look at mine closer. I thought it had a slot or hex in one end to retain it. (Or maybe I'm getting mixed up with inner brain that visualized it SHOULD have such a feature).

I give my bearing cluster area a blitz with WD-40 & brush the chip mung away every so often. The WD coating seams to resist buildup a bit, otherwise your bearings get caked & starts rolling swarf onto the blade. The bearings have shields & probably grease in there. Probably not optimal but they are probably dirt cheap to replace. My saw has these cheesy little wire brush heads that also plug up but are very good at keeping the blade clean around the sheaves. I found some cheap wire brush handles that I am going to cut the head off & retrofit one day. There isnt a great way to mount them so I may have to come up with a 3DP part to fit the casting.
 
Johnwa said:
It’s hard to tell if your guides are original or not. It does look like 2 of the bearings have rims on them that may serve the same purpose as the 3rd roller on mine.

Is the broken turn buckle meant to tension the belt?
That could explain the jumping.
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Yes, each pair of guides has one with a shoulder, and one smooth

Yes, the turnbuckle serves as a tensioner for the belt. I picked up a new turnbuckle and fixed that part of it today, although it may need some fine tuning
 
kevin.decelles said:
I looked around for gear oil that was not API spec 5 but did not have any luck. My searches all came back with the elusive mobile 600w or steam engine cylinder oil which is not easily found in Canada. Any sites selling were by 5 gallon pails

The 600w is a brand, not a viscosity

Drive be nuts. If you find something let me know as I’m interested




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Old post, I know, but, last time I was looking for brass friendly gear oil, I was told to use outboard motor leg gear oil....
 
140mower said:
I was looking for brass friendly gear oil,
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I worried about this for my lathes - all of them have brass bushings in the headstock. I called 5 oil companies and harassed them until I could talk to a lubrication specialist in every company (it took *months*).

They all said the same thing. You best anti-wear and highest lubricity is found in hydraulic gear oils. they are built to take the abuse and protect far better than heavy gear oil. they all said to a one: "don't worry about the weight - use 32 if your shop is cold or iso68 iif you have a high temperature shop. this equates to 5w oil in the is032 case or 15w for the iso 68.

Do NOT use any hypoid gear oil or any oil that has sulfated anti-wear additives. this will strip the zinc out of the brass bushings and they will crumble into bits.
 
Dabbler said:
I worried about this for my lathes - all of them have brass bushings in the headstock. I called 5 oil companies and harassed them until I could talk to a lubrication specialist in every company (it took *months*).

They all said the same thing. You best anti-wear and highest lubricity is found in hydraulic gear oils. they are built to take the abuse and protect far better than heavy gear oil. they all said to a one: "don't worry about the weight - use 32 if your shop is cold or iso68 iif you have a high temperature shop. this equates to 5w oil in the is032 case or 15w for the iso 68.

Do NOT use any hypoid gear oil or any oil that has sulfated anti-wear additives. this will strip the zinc out of the brass bushings and they will crumble into bits.
Click to expand...
Oil is such a disputed subject, and I don’t know why

There is a fairly well known person who advocates adding 89W90 into your oil changes on big rigs, in the engine, to get additives back in that oil companies stripped out

One litre of 80W90 mixed with 20 litres of 15W40 can’t cause any harm, in my opinion. It’s too late for me to do the math but it’s a low percentage
 
In a machine tool you never want detergent in your oil. You only use a detergent oil when you have a pressurized circulating oil system with a filter. (and sometimes not even then)
 
Chicken lights said:
Oil is such a disputed subject, and I don’t know why

There is a fairly well known person who advocates adding 89W90 into your oil changes on big rigs, in the engine, to get additives back in that oil companies stripped out

One litre of 80W90 mixed with 20 litres of 15W40 can’t cause any harm, in my opinion. It’s too late for me to do the math but it’s a low percentage
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I never did it but I know fellows that added 2 litres of ATF to every 40 ltr 15-40 oilchange....seems everybody has an old-wives recipe for everything.
I do agree with Dabbler on hyd oil ...pour a gallon of that down any old cow and stand away tp the side...way way to the side, never front or back!!
 
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