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3D Printer Happened

Susquatch said:
Another quick question. Now that I know that those tubes are just filament guides, is there a reason I can't remove the manual spool holder?

View attachment 83798

I can't really imagine needing it and it looks like a Susquatch trap. It gives me the heevie jeevies. I'm gunna get it caught in something and either break it or break something else.
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Thats an external spool holder. Some filaments will not work reliably in the AMS because they are stiff and can break with the AMS' tight tube curvatures. NYLON-CF for example or many of the exotic (expensive) engineering plastics. So with the brittle filament spool hanging on that holder the filament has no tight curves to worry about and is much less likely to break inside the machine.

On the H2C there is also another external feed port specifically for TPU/TPE because it is too flexible and soft to be used in the AMS.

Because you have an AMS, it is possible to use a different filament to support the model. Those curved corners on the DessicantTray are intentional, but can cause print bed adhesion issues. To fix that (if it is a problem) you can select a filament just for the support to remove the overhangs. When preparinig the model, you will find a tab called SUPPORT where the filament and other support details and styles can be set. Bed adhesion problems are easily avoided if you use a proper bed adhesive suited for your materials. There are different adhesives for LSE plastics such as PA6 or PA12. Magigoo is useful for PLA/PETG/ABS/ASA and other non-LSE plastics.

🙂
 
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Susquatch said:
That's a real risk....

I was working on an impliment hookup a while back and my wife happened to be there. It wouldn't quite go so I wound up and stomped on it. My wife just about fainted. She had never seen me get violent before.

I bought a spare with the printer. I'll check it out first.
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Trying to hook up an implement can bring that out that rage in anyone.....
 
So why did you buy a spare wife when you got the printer? And you’re going to check her out.
Perhaps a get well soon wish is in order now.
Sorry Sus, that was post #100.
 
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Bandit said:
So why did you buy a spare wife when you got the printer? And you’re going to check her out.
Perhaps a get well soon wish is in order now.
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I think autocorrect got you. I can't figure out what you meant to say.

But ya, even suggesting a replacement wife would get me killed.
 
I had an older Ford 400, the 3point arms had a kind of locking dog disconnect on ends that allowed the ball ends to move in and out, up and down. Once on the equipment pins, back up a bit, the ends slid into place and locked, good to go. Now the 3rd link could still be a major bear on a ridged hook up.
 
Bandit said:
I had an older Ford 400, the 3point arms had a kind of locking dog disconnect on ends that allowed the ball ends to move in and out, up and down. Once on the equipment pins, back up a bit, the ends slid into place and locked, good to go. Now the 3rd link could still be a major bear on a ridged hook up.
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I had a quick attach like you describe on my Deere loader tractor for a while. It was ok but never as good as a proper 3pt connection. Then one day it froze in place on the pin. I couldn't get it apart with anything I owned. So I disassembled everything as best I could and took it to an outfit with a big 20" diameter hydraulic press. No idea how many tons, but obviously lots! When it let go, it released with a bang so loud that everyone in the place crapped themselves. I never used it again - too gunshy.
 
Susquatch said:
Yup, you nailed it. The magnets are incredibly strong but a gentle squatch squeeze released it. Happy Happy here. Should solve most of my release problems.
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Just be sure to keep it really really clean. Greasy paw prints will F you up. You may end up using various release agents or adhesive agents depending on what filament you are using. Soap and water is preferred to alcohol for cleaning but eventually everyone seems to settle in to something that works for them depending on what they are printing.
And you may have this figured out already but most plates can be used on both sides. They are generally marked showing what filament they are suited for.
 
^exactly what he said^ Some guys swear by IPA for a quick wipe, but its actually not endorsed by Bambu AFAIK. This actually makes sense to me. IPA breaks down oils, but also evaporates quickly, so the question is are you absorbing into the paper towel (removing it) or are you just smearing it around & redistributing the same schmutz? If the print sticks you dclare success either way. When more fiddly parts fail, then one questions the methods. Everyone has their recipe. I use bulk buy lens cleaner spritz & Kim Wipe. Its very close to the same application & pretty cheap. Lately I have been thinking about recentering my parts just to get it off the same default center.

And referring back to my prior post, if you slice a print defining textured plate & then decide, No I'll just flip the plate & print the same part file for the smooth surface, it doesnt quite work that simple (or at least as well). The slicer setup is defining properties specific to the surface. I'm not sure what all but I imagine Z-offset, temps, first layer specific parameters, start/end cooling... Bambu has done all the hard work, all you have to remember is pick the corresponding plate from menu.
 
PeterT said:
The slicer setup is defining properties specific to the surface. I'm not sure what all but I imagine Z-offset, temps, first layer specific parameters, start/end cooling... Bambu has done all the hard work, all you have to remember is pick the corresponding plate from menu.
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Not to pick nits but Bambu is mostly just using the hard work of the open source community that developed Slic3r.
 
FYI, it will be a while before I can use the 3D printer again. We had a bad storm go through and everyone in the area is out of power.

Good time for reading.

I think my next print will be a salt and pepper shaker tray. I'm guessing I need some Fusion help to do that. But maybe it can be scaled right on the Bambu Print Screen.....


Next is maybe 5C and/or R8 Collet tray to go in a drawer? I prolly need 30 (TBD) of each.

Same question as above - can scaling and expanding be done at the printer menu or is Fusion required?
 
Susquatch said:
FYI, it will be a while before I can use the 3D printer again. We had a bad storm go through and everyone in the area is out of power.

Good time for reading.

I think my next print will be a salt and pepper shaker tray. I'm guessing I need some Fusion help to do that. But maybe it can be scaled right on the Bambu Print Screen.....


Next is maybe 5C and/or R8 Collet tray to go in a drawer? I prolly need 30 (TBD) of each.

Same question as above - can scaling and expanding be done at the printer menu or is Fusion required?
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Scaling can be done on the slicer at the computer before sending to the printer. Bambu slicer, and most others as well, will let you scale in all directions equally, X,Y and Z, by percentages if you want to make the whole thing 10 or 26% bigger. You can also scale an individual axis and leave the others the same. Turn a perfect circle into an oval, for instance, by scaling just one axis. Pretty sure none of this can be done in the phone app or on the printer screen.
You can do it in Fusion to depending on the file format but Fusion is a deep, dark hole that I don't go into.
 
Susquatch said:
YouTube....... Yuk.

What happened to plug and play for old guys....... I just want it to work. Download a model, press print, come back in an hour or two to get your model.

Benchy worked like that. Everything else should too.
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So much for plug and play. That part is to draw you into something you never expected. You so far have not eased my fears. I have a flip phone, do you need a smart phone to operate this printer?

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
 
TonyK said:
So much for plug and play. That part is to draw you into something you never expected. You so far have not eased my fears. I have a flip phone, do you need a smart phone to operate this printer?

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
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My impression so far is that it works best with a computer.

However, I hardly ever use a computer these days. I find my smartphone to be 10x more convenient. For a small example, my Bambu is out in the barn. My computer is in the house. But my smartphone is ALWAYS with me.

I'm not suggesting that a smartphone is better than a computer. I'm only saying that FOR ME, a smartphone is more convenient.
 
Susquatch said:
My impression so far is that it works best with a computer.

However, I hardly ever use a computer these days. I find my smartphone to be 10x more convenient. For a small example, my Bambu is out in the barn. My computer is in the house. But my smartphone is ALWAYS with me.

I'm not suggesting that a smartphone is better than a computer. I'm only saying that FOR ME, a smartphone is more convenient.
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I can never understand why someone has a 70" big screen TV and watches a movie on a 3" smart phone screen.

For that reason and others, I do not see a benefit from a smart phone. Lap top, PC yes and when I was in school typing with 1 finger brought about a crack across the back with a yard stick from the master. Not typing will all fingers was sin. I suppose going to a Catholic School had something to do with this reply.

As for 3D printing, the great question is how do I take an idea that I can see being machined from a block of aluminum and now make that happen on a 3D printer? CAD? And if so, how complicated is that program for that to happen?

As I read through the post, many that have a great amount of knowledge on the subject jump in and comment with terms that I now have to Google to figure out what they are talking about. Somehow I missed what Benchy is, google stated that it was tug boat. How did a table with 4 legs turn into a Tug Boat? Then there a lot of terms that I just don't know the meaning. Like anything else, for me to learn I have to have a want. To get past the want and to build I need to understand the method, so far that is murky.

Keep posting, I will keep following and your efforts will explain the whole process, well that is what I am hoping.

Keep at it as I shall keep reading.

Thanks.

TonyK.

Grimby Ontario Canada.
 
This is what I like about this forum, I am learning things, while I don’t have a Bamboooo printer some of these things brought up here are going to help me with my what seems to be a dinosaur printer. At the very least there will be some answers to my questions, while I must admit a few of shortened terms have me head shaking and scratching, I know that I can ask what that means and get an answer and not be considered an idjet.
So for myself and some others in the same boat, rowing on the same side, THANK YOU..!!
 
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