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You guys are a bad influence

YYCHobbyMachinist said:
Nice! What do you figure that stand weighs?

What? Don't have a retired power cord you could donate to the project? Like the one I have that the wife ran over 4 times with the electric lawn mower LOL. I'd be itching to get her rotating.

Craig
Click to expand...
Gotta be in the 2-300 pound range. For the base. 2 full grown men struggle to lift it.

I got nothing at the shop to sacrifice for a power cord
 
Anyone know how to wire up a Leeson 1/2 hp motor? A buddy dropped off a 3 wire extension cord for me to use. There’s a wiring diagram on the plate of sorts, but it’s greek to me
 
ADFA9546-BB6D-4F1F-A21E-12E0C73F9A2D.jpeg

T1 is crimped together
T2 and T3 are maretted together.
T4, 5 and 8 are all single wires
P1 and P2 go to the thermal reset switch
 
I have a Leeson 3/4 HP on my PHS. I'll pull the wiring box cover off and see If I can make sense of things. My motor plate has the same pin out info as yours.

Are you trying wire 110 or 220 in?

I'm running 110 and as far as I can tell.

Ground just gets grounded to the box.

Line (W) joins with T2, T4, and T5

Line (B) joins with P1 as it comes off the reset button. T1 and P2 are also attached to the reset button (not sure what's going on here).

P2, T8, and T3 are joined together.

So the plate info makes sense for 110.

When I took the cover plate off the box one of those twist on wire joining thingies rolled out of the box onto the floor LOL.
 
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Chicken lights said:
That sort of worked. I had to spin the pulley by hand to get it to spin. Then after 30 seconds of running it tripped the motors breaker and quit.
Click to expand...

Where's @Johnwa when you need him?

How many and what wires are connected to your reset switch/breaker? You're wiring for 110 correct?

No smoke I hope.....

Craig
 
Chicken lights said:
Yes, 110v. I followed what you posted.
I’m pretty sure I’ll need a switch of some kind.

I think 3 wires go to the reset breaker
Click to expand...

There's a start/stop switch on your stand?

3 wires are what I saw connected to my reset breaker. P1, P2, and T1.
 
I pulled the cover off my start capacitor. The lines supplying it are labeled T5 and T6.

You're having to jump start the motor manually sounds like the start capacitor isn't in the loop.

Where did this motor come from?

Craig
 
@Chicken lights - should wire up like this for 110v:

7ECD38A8-C1FC-4ED3-9A39-3E12D8011936.jpeg

@YYCHobbyMachinist - motor was on my Utilathe when purchased. - Inpit original 3 phase back on. Motor might have been set up for 220 so Dave you need to make sure things are wired correctly for 110v.
You can put the black on the P1 and the white on the T2, T4, T5 if you want the hot on the overload.
 
Chicken lights said:
View attachment 8622
T1 is crimped together
T2 and T3 are maretted together.
T4, 5 and 8 are all single wires
P1 and P2 go to the thermal reset switch
Click to expand...
@Brent H has given you the correct wiring to get the motor running counter clockwise. It appears this motor was being used with a reversing switch previously, probably on 220 volt supply. Note that the motor will run the other direction by interchanging which group of wires T5 and T8 are connected to. A drum switch is commonly used to control forward/reverse operation.

Re switching, a simple light switch is 'OK' for a 1/2 HP motor. Motors are different from a light circuit as there is a big inrush of current as the motor comes up to full RPM. If you have a heavy piece of stock chucked up, that inrush may last a pretty long time and will eventually burn out the contacts on a light switch. A "motor rated" switch is just that--the contacts are much beefier. Busy Bee sells a couple of options for less than $20 each. I like the one with the emergency-off paddle. OTOH, you may want to be able to run the lathe in reverse. Unfortunately, I don't know of a source for a drum switch for less than about $80 USD.

HTH

Craig
(BTW, I am not an electrician and I'm just barely smart enough to know not to lick the bare wires coming out of the wall socket!)
 
Any luck getting her turning?

Is that start/stop switch on the cabinet mechanical? IE when you push one in the other pops out (with no power applied).
 
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Hey @YYCHobbyMachinist the start/stop is intermittent contact and there is a relay box inside the cabinet. Push start and the relay is to energize. I think the overload and such are in there as well.

For @Chicken lights, you could wire up so that the motor overload is not in the picture and the relay cabinet overload is the overload.

I cannot really say how well the buttons or relay (motor starter) cabinet is as it was outside......
 
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