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Working on my South Bend 9C

Model Citizen said:
Boom sticks & pond ducks.
Wandering thread?
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This all began way back when........ @Golem Pens first detected a significant amount of runout on one of his pens, that little wobble oh so many posts ago has become a serious whip now that we're so far from the initial source. So technically I think we are still on topic, and this is a good reminder how important a true running lathe is to keeping the universe in order..... 🙄
YotaBota said:
Nope, just a bit of crosswind. lol
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......... or this. ^ 😉
 
Hi Guys,

Even with a true running lathe, the problems start with changing the conditions during the turning of a part. The more of a job you can complete at one setting the less runout between parts will result.
Take the threading between internal and external on a single part. Once you alter the setup any
co-axialality disappears.
 
Yes, I'm aware. Which is why I aim to run the multi-step operation of tenon shaping > external die > internal bore > internal tap all in sequence without removing the piece from the chuck.

Not that there isn't a better method, or that there isn't something in my tools or set up that that isn't skewing things. But I AM trying to address the considerations of co-concentricity. Specific recommendations may be helpful.
 
My personal recommendation is to get one with a belt at least.

I’m considering selling my 6” wheeled bench grinder now that I have my 2x72 belt grinder.

The belt grinder is like, far and above superior to any bench grinder I’ve ever used in my life. Not even a fair comparison.

Some guys say a big 10” one is comparable power wise, but one thing that is on a different level is how easy it is to change grits, and get different belts and change them. Takes 2 sec.

Power wise the belt grinder still is above anything I’ve used or seen.
 
Finally getting the change gears mounted up so I can play around and ope, as I feared there isn't clearance between the motor pulley cover and the gear cover! Motor cover will have to come off to run gears
 
It's a problem with horizontal rear drives like that, because they take up so much space folks tend to squeeze them together too much.... If you can raise the drive up onto a pedestal about 12" or 300mm for you young whipper snippers, you should be able to get the clearance. This space conundrum is why I went overhead on the 13".....
 
Golem Pens said:
Yeah I simply don't have more horizontal space available. Wasn't an issue before I had the motor cover 😉

Hmmm I could get it up higher, though I would need a longer belt in that case.
Click to expand...
I think some wise man once said " for every action, there's a reaction "
Yes, you will likely need a new belt and all the fun that entails.... I am very happy with the serpentine belt that I cut to length and joined the ends together with a belt clipper...... when is the last time the wifes car got a new fan belt? Nudge nudge....
 
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