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Working on my South Bend 9C

Test shims did help with adjusting clamp tension without binding. Still about the same lateral spindle play.

Gotta assume that both the spindle and headstock bearing surface are worn. But I'll probably try to find time to swap in the other spindle in the hopes I can split the difference.
 
Nope. The purported replacement is not compatible and will not fit (smaller diameter, amongst other dimensions). So I'll just try to properly shim the headstock properly and hope it's acceptable.
 

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Like Alice said, this is getting curiouser & curiouser.
Is the one on the right brand spanking new?
Has the headstock been bored out?
 

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Brand new? I don't know. It was billed as such but I'm not sure I trust that given the other discoveries I've made.

It's not terribly close, it's almost definitely from a differently specced machine, or a different generation/production era. Diameter, length, features all all different.

Unfortunately I suspect I'm hitting the limit of refinement (pending the reassembly with new shims). I fear it's approaching lemon status, at least for my intended use...
 
Golem Pens said:
Unfortunately I suspect I'm hitting the limit of refinement (pending the reassembly with new shims). I fear it's approaching lemon status, at least for my intended use...
Click to expand...

I think you are giving up too soon. There are a lot of ways to significantly improve runout without resorting to expensive new parts.

I believe that @140mower had it right when he said you need to step back and start mapping out what it does and where what it does comes from so you can develop a realistic improvement plan. In my view you are nowhere near that just yet. Have some faith. We are here to help.
 
I like your current plan.
PBR beer can is .003, i don’t know about others, lotsa shim material out there.
Adjust & just use it for a while, my guess is you’re tired of working on it.
Good luck & don’t give up.
 
Susquatch said:
Map the system first, then we can all drown you in ideas.
Click to expand...
Help direct me a bit there if possible.

1) I've got it all torn down.
2) I'm pretty sure that wear in the headstock and/or spindle is my main immediate concern.
3) I am planning to reassemble with appropriate shims and re-check to see how good I can get that initial set up.
4) Based on those results, determine if there's more to be done at this stage, or if it's time to assess the next link in the chain.
 
Golem Pens said:
Help direct me a bit there if possible.

1) I've got it all torn down.
2) I'm pretty sure that wear in the headstock and/or spindle is my main immediate concern.
3) I am planning to reassemble with appropriate shims and re-check to see how good I can get that initial set up.
4) Based on those results, determine if there's more to be done at this stage, or if it's time to assess the next link in the chain.
Click to expand...
From here, put it all back together again.......... use just the tiniest bit of oil when you put it back together, taking care to keep the shim area clean and dry. Oil takes up space just like a shim, but will squeeze out with time. Brass shim stock is pretty cheap and you can get a variety pack of thicknesses on Amazon etc.... feeler gauges can be used to suss out which shims you need, but don't use as shims (or maybe that's just me). Your dial indicator will work, but pick-up an adjustable magnetic base to go with it. You're going to be putting your probe into a variety of directions and locations.
Patience young grasshopper, the braintrust here will get you back smiling soon enough.
 
Hi Michael,

Whilst you have got it apart can you photograph the inside of the bearing and cap, particularly the front edge. Thanks.
 
Hi Michael,

Thank you for this picture. I had expected to see a Bronze or Babbitt coated surface in there. I was sure that there should be bearing shells. I suspect that is why the new spindle seems to be the wrong size. That surface is extremely rough far more that I would expect for a bearing surface. Also I see what looks like a keyway in the top, also suggesting that there should be a bearing shell in there.

???
 
No, on older/smaller models, some simply used "bearings" (I'd call them races) bored directly into the cast iron headstock. The corresponding spindles are hardened and "superfinished" spindle.

Oh and the "keyway" you see at the top is for the felt wick.

The models that use bronze bearings have a removable cap, unlike the lunch bolt version here. I suspect that the "new" spindle is from a newer 9" model than my machine.

The "bearing" surface and spindle are smooth to the touch. I haven't tried to assess wear on those (not really sure how - some kind of circular/ac sweep with an indicator?)
 
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Thank you Michael,

I understand better now.
A thought pops into my head, if you measure the spindle diameter and the housing diameter is there a bearing race size that would fit ?
 
My sb9 has the cast iron bearings, and runs like a champ. I just made a part (to try Santa's qctp) and I was able to adjust the diameter by 1.5 thous using the compound on the last pass.
 
Out of curiosity, if you do the deflection test I'd be interested in the results!
Garyt said:
My sb9 has the cast iron bearings, and runs like a champ. I just made a part (to try Santa's qctp) and I was able to adjust the diameter by 1.5 thous using the compound on the last pass.
Click to expand...
 

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