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Tips/Techniques Which printer to buy advice needed

Tips/Techniques
GummyMonster said:
She bought hers off Amazon.ca
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If necessary, returns will be easier (probably) via amazon.ca I wouldn't like the up-charge, though. ( $1000USD doesn't equal $1500CAD).
But, 20 years ago I suppose it would have been $100,000 - if you could have gotten it at all. Amazing technology.
 
Hi
People have been discussing the merits of various printers. I’ve weighed in too. But @Susquatch you said somewhere I want a printer which prints great without any fussing by me. These pictures show some answers on what is possible today.

Zoom in and look. These are great prints in my judgement. The results in my eyes make the better and more expensive equipment worth it - to me.

these prints are from the mk4 prusa and it is kinda pricey. I used good filament from spool3d. $34ish a spool. The usual nozzle 0.4mm and default settings and hit print. 159 grams or 16% of a spool so $5. 4.5 hours.

This is black matt filament PETG. Which I really like.
 

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Janger said:
Hi
People have been discussing the merits of various printers. I’ve weighed in too. But @Susquatch you said somewhere I want a printer which prints great without any fussing by me. These pictures show some answers on what is possible today.

Zoom in and look. These are great prints in my judgement. The results in my eyes make the better and more expensive equipment worth it - to me.

these prints are from the mk4 prusa and it is kinda pricey. I used good filament from spool3d. $34ish a spool. The usual nozzle 0.4mm and default settings and hit print. 159 grams or 16% of a spool so $5. 4.5 hours.
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Those are excellent prints John.
 
Ok example 2. Sometimes I’m impatient so I have set up my old printer to print coarser and faster. The nozzle is 0.8mm CHT higher performance so I can run the printer faster and it lays down a much bigger bead which is also faster. For draft stuff this is fine.

For this print I took the burnisher prototype (see another thread) and printed the parts. This took 2hours. I can then take this to the shop and see if it think it will work before I make the metal components for real. Dave was posting about his similar use for his ball screw setup. Exactly. Super helpful. Easiest way to model and make a test part. Easier than wood, clay, etc. it’s not going to be right the first or even 5th time necessarily but I can print test, make revisions, and turnaround subsequent versions in hours. Amazing.
 

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I'm really new to 3D printing, purchased a used Prusa for dirt cheap and after some simple tweaking it's been working like a champ and the print quality is excellent.

I'm actually amazed at just how simple this has been so far, I expect major grief and in practice it just keeps printing and printing.
 
Janger said:
What is this John? reminds me of a mill power feed.
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That's the sad thing about 3D printing and short term memory. I don't remember why I made this or for what project. I think when I was working on my own design for a robot arm for tool changing. And it was an opportunity to play with CAD design of worm gears etc.

Or maybe I did find it online and I didn't draw it.

Sadly can't remember.

Edit: Found it! I did not do the design. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2686607
 
Okay, for those that want a printing appliance, Bambu is just releasing a new printer: The A1. A very fast bed slinging printer, similar to the MK4, but supposedly faster, with input shaping, pressure advance, An Ender/Prusa MK4 sized printer area, PEI plate, Touch screen, all for 399$US. It appears to have a great no tool nozzle, camera, and is upgradable to a 4 colour AMS.

You can avoid their cloud and use your local network.

This printer is set up with a maximum 100C bed temoerature, and a maximum extruder temperature at 300C.

CNC kitchen did a review of one at:

 
Susquatch said:
Are you in yet John?
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For me, no. Several reasons.

-I dislike the 'closed garden' in a market where most everything else is more open.
-I keep benefiting by waiting, because the technology is refining at a very fast pace.
-I keep to a budget for bigger things, so I'll have to actually sell one of my extra machines first.
-I'm starting up learning to work on very small things, such as watches
-For the moment I can get the few 3DP projects printed, so until I wear out my welcome, the pressure is off.
 
Dabbler said:
For me, no.
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Too many excuses.

That said, any one is good enough for me.

This after I found a spot to put it.......

Next Christmas is only a short year away.

Gotta be really careful with this one. I am virtually certain that when I show it to my bride she will immediately ask if I need help selling my machines now that I don't need them anymore!
 
Dabbler said:
Okay, for those that want a printing appliance, Bambu is just releasing a new printer: The A1.
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If one were to buy this printer (just sayin' :) ) what 'extras' should be ordered with it?
https://ca.store.bambulab.com/products/a1?variant=44732502638832
I know from experience that it's the 'add-ons' that drive up the cost quickly. e.g. the bargain lathe.. :)
Is the AMS very useful if only single colour prints are planned?
Without the AMS multi-spool holder, how is the spool held?
What filament PLA or PETG for a beginner?
Should extra nozzles be ordered?
etc...
I don't understand why I am tempted by this - it's not like I have ever said "No I don't want that part in metal- don't you have it in soft plastic?" :)
Next stop is thingiverse to see if there is actually $750 worth of things there that I want to make for myself.
The odds of me learning enough CAD to design parts are very slim.
 
VicHobbyGuy said:
If one were to buy this printer (just sayin' :) ) what 'extras' should be ordered with it?
https://ca.store.bambulab.com/products/a1?variant=44732502638832
I know from experience that it's the 'add-ons' that drive up the cost quickly. e.g. the bargain lathe.. :)
Is the AMS very useful if only single colour prints are planned?
Without the AMS multi-spool holder, how is the spool held?
What filament PLA or PETG for a beginner?
Should extra nozzles be ordered?
etc...
I don't understand why I am tempted by this - it's not like I have ever said "No I don't want that part in metal- don't you have it in soft plastic?" :)
Next stop is thingiverse to see if there is actually $750 worth of things there that I want to make for myself.
The odds of me learning enough CAD to design parts are very slim.
Click to expand...
As a next to rank beginner I'll chime in. :)
If no multi coloured prints are anticipated then no AMS is required as the included spool holder is used.
I would start with PLA as it's pretty forgiving.

Once you get a 3D printer a whole world of opportunities opens up.
 
I'll concur with @David_R8 that PLA is a good starting point. In the long run if you want to do fancier materials an enclosure is a requirement. I prefer the direct drive printers rather than the Bowden tube versions.
In the long run the multiple filament type machines are more for people that make 3D printing their main hobby (IMHO). Things just get more complicated.

I think most of us in the machining or electronics end will agree that the 3D printer is a great tool to add to the repertoire for making things but it's not the only way. Most of the casting patterns I've made with the 3D printer could also have been made from wood. And sometimes even that goes over the top where an alternative and simpler method could be used.

For example: With a 3D printer I'd likely have printed these patterns. And in reality if I had the CNC mill I'd likely have cut them out of plate aluminum or at least cast flat and round pieces and bolted them together. But this is where casting and also be that rabbit hole. Did I really need to cast motor mounts with included studs and as a split patter with the buttons on the bottom?

1702936333865.webp
 
VicHobbyGuy said:
I know from experience that it's the 'add-ons' that drive up the cost quickly. e.g. the bargain lathe.. :)
Is the AMS very useful if only single colour prints are planned?
Without the AMS multi-spool holder, how is the spool held?
Click to expand...
100% with @David_R8 PLA to start, and this printer does it very well. Use Banbu's PLA to start, until you get some hours under your belt.

1. You should concoct a way to dry filament. It never hurts, and for PLA and Nylon, it is very helpful.
2. Get all the nozzles. Bigger nozzles = faster printing with less crisp walls, etc. See what you like, as nozzles are inexpensive in any case.

-- that's all you need for your first Kg of projects, and then you will be giving me advice. I'm in 'deep research mode', and don't own a printer. I've watched @Janger as he got his first printer, and learned a lot from him since. But he's waaaay more experienced than I.
 
My experience has been:

I went with Prusa from day 1. My Mk3s+ has a year of print time on it, over 10km of filament gone through, and no major problems.

Runs for months on end. I bought the kit, so setup was a bit of a task, but the instructions are great, and haribo gummies are actually pretty tasty as well.

I can definitely recommend Prusa…..

I ordered the MK4 and my mk3 is already sold on a handshake to a friend when my other printer arrives.
 
I bought the BambuLab A1 printer and AMS - it arrived yesterday.
News flash! Don't believe what paid touts on YouTube tell you! :)
Definitely "not ready for prime time".
Bambu have a long long way to go if they think their products will make 3D printers into household appliances.
The A1 another one for my "What were they thinking???" file.
Apparently it is too much trouble for companies to recruit complete novices, sit them down with the product, and watch them follow the instructions and try to make the thing work.
I had the same experience last week following the 'Training' for the OnShape CAD software.

The A1 works- sort of- and is probably a good choice for the experienced 3D printer user.
 
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