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What to look for in a Welder?

Last shop I had, I had a few sheets of metal roofing left over from a project, brought them into the shop and lined the wall behind my welding bench to about 5 ft. high. Still meaning to do that to the new one here.
 
kevin.decelles said:
And plan for the worst (fire/burn). Did a 30 second weld last night, walked to a machine to test fit my piece, turned around and my work-bench 4' away from the welder was on fire. I had (past tense) a blue shop towel under a crank-shaft for a tractor. Spark ignited it and the residual oil from the crankshaft that had soaked into the towel fueled it.

All is well, was able to snuff it without extinguisher, but real example of how fast it can get away from ya. Fire extinguishers are a must, as is a bucket of sand, first-aid-kit.
Click to expand...

Don’t forget about the grinder sparks as a source of fire its best to stick around for a 1/2 hour after welding/grinding.
 
1. Lincoln 140MP
2. I like the fact that it’s a multi process
3. I wish it was a 220v mp machine

If you are welding inside, no matter the process, I’d recommend some sort of exhaust fan, along with your other safety gear.
 
looking for info - i have an old forney ac stick welder, and an acetlene torch - I am looking for help making some weiner roasting sticks for gifts, i use 3/16 cold rolled rod for the stick and 1/8 stainless steel for the forks, in past i have tried and had some success and lots of failure using bronse torch, and more of same using various ac rods 7014, 6011 . I usually end up burning completely through the stainless steel. I am looking for suggestions of ac rods and ampes to use. I am open to any and all help I do NOT have mig or tig and have no room in workshop for them
 
Brent H said:
Hey Ken,

I used to have some really good luck with a rod "Certainuim" I think it was - Purple flux coating and 1/16" diameter - worked well on the small stuff and multiple metals.

https://www.lawsonproducts.com/Certanium/707-Dissimilar-Steel-Stick-Rod-Electrode-116/P12655.lp

Not sure of a Canadian supplier - probably available at air liquide

Dissimilar metal electrode
Click to expand...
thanks - I checked the link and i see i can buy in usa, i will look for it here- i will call liquide and few others
good info - wife may think it is bit expensive for wiener roasting sticks- but then it is for killing time thks
 
ken holliday said:
thanks - I checked the link and i see i can buy in usa, i will look for it here- i will call liquide and few others
good info - wife may think it is bit expensive for wiener roasting sticks- but then it is for killing time thks
Click to expand...
Also check Canadaweldingsupply.ca
 
Millar 252 no longer available new
stich timers, spot timers
I suppose the programmable features is the short answer
 
#1 252 is a mig machine
spool gun ready plug and play I see another listed by another member
#3 Spot timer is 1 of the features which can be programed to suit the jobs needs - pre flow of gas post flow burn time to suit the wire size your using matl. thickness etc. as it sounds you burn thru 1 layer and fuse it to the base layer you need a different nozzle that's notch so when you hold i against the 2 layers as a vented stand off for the tip
#2 Stich timer; after setting the machine voltage-wire speed to suit material you can also set pre flow- post flow of the gas your using - burn time- dwell time period between next burn I use these 2 programs for body work I like it, does what I need it to coffee can to !"
search it out for more info at Millars site
#4 Hiding in the woods shhh
 
Swharfin' said:
#1 252 is a mig machine
spool gun ready plug and play I see another listed by another member
#3 Spot timer is 1 of the features which can be programed to suit the jobs needs - pre flow of gas post flow burn time to suit the wire size your using matl. thickness etc. as it sounds you burn thru 1 layer and fuse it to the base layer you need a different nozzle that's notch so when you hold i against the 2 layers as a vented stand off for the tip
#2 Stich timer; after setting the machine voltage-wire speed to suit material you can also set pre flow- post flow of the gas your using - burn time- dwell time period between next burn I use these 2 programs for body work I like it, does what I need it to coffee can to !"
search it out for more info at Millars site
#4 Hiding in the woods shhh
Click to expand...


ok undertood - sort of - I have no mig or tig or experience, never used one or even watched, they are a whole new world and hard on this old brain - hiding in woods is ok, hope you watch for predatory cougars - good luck
are the woods in Sask or alta or USA or ?
 
Alberta Canada
I'm not a welder either I get by burning wire and rods .... so far.
A pre- employment course can be found at most community colleges or such institutions and are a great investment for all trades
Most of the things if learned were from someone who didn't have a clue about the topic ... me.
The only Dumb question is one that doesn't have a voice.
 
i have a really old Forney ac arc welder, used to be on a farm- got it cheap at Forney - they had taken it on trade. I have had it for 50 years, built a lot with it - never use the carbon rods for heat as i also picked up an acetele outfit at a pawn shop in Minot - 40 years ago, i got small tanks and get refills as needed. I bought a recip hack saw - home built, and used for some years, came with 1/2 horse electric motor and i added old vehicle shock absorber to saw thus preventing severe crash when it cuts through - I can no longer use it as my mobility is such i cant stand- It is wrapped in plastic, sits outside at the family farm waiting for nephew or ? to want it - free to them. I now
kevin.decelles said:
And plan for the worst (fire/burn). Did a 30 second weld last night, walked to a machine to test fit my piece, turned around and my work-bench 4' away from the welder was on fire. I had (past tense) a blue shop towel under a crank-shaft for a tractor. Spark ignited it and the residual oil from the crankshaft that had soaked into the towel fueled it.

All is well, was able to snuff it without extinguisher, but real example of how fast it can get away from ya. Fire extinguishers are a must, as is a bucket of sand, first-aid-kit.
Click to expand...

use 14 inch chop saw - Princess auto, 4.5 inch side grinder (Milwaukee) , cordless 18v sawzall, cordless 18v Milwaukee hack saw , and my free 9 inch Utilathe which i inherited.

I never had instruction in any of them, just learn by mistakes, advise from others
I often wish for a mig to do very light work, Things i have built - snowmobile trailer, double, tilt and swivel, plus it has extra strong axle and springs, so serves as utility trailer, has hauled, antique car, moved kids to University, 2 elk and 4 muke deer in one very successful hunt, rocks, gravel and much more. It is in need of some repair soon as steel framework is rusting through but is good for anything family or i need it for. Latest project has me learning how to stick weld stainless steel rod 1/8 inch to 3/16 cold rolled mild rod. Instruction and experimentation with nephew who is an extremely quailfied welder ( pressure, plus under water, plus heavy equipment, plus learning tool and die trade-
 
I have had my Campbell Hausfeld 110v 130 amp mig for 23 years now and have put likely around 100 rolls of 2lb wire through it. Now it is in its 3rd whip, but the machine keeps ticking. I love it for its portability and simplicity. I ran gas on it for a few years but have learned to love it as a flux core machine.

I also have a 200 amp ac/dc tig/stick. I love tig, it also gives me the same control I felt with oxy/fuel. It is an expensive process so I don't use it a ton (in saskatoon it costs 110 + tax for 80cuft of argon!), and its 200 amp stick capabilities are nice for the odd job. I even hooked up the Hausfeld whip to this thing once and did some spray type welding - would not recommend it.

I miss having gas, but, it is more the heat I miss than its welding/brazing ability.

bottom line:
buy a machine that fits your interests. Machining big stuff that is often welded together? go big stick. Welding multiple types of metals and alloys where precision is key? go tig. Like cars or general fab/maintenance? go flux mig. In a production setting where time wasted on post-weld clean up ain't worth it? go gas shielded mig.


Happy sparks!
 
@painly - a very nice analysis.

The only real reason I still use gas shielded MIG for my primary welding is that it is so very forgiving. A lot of pros choose gas shielded flux core for the ease and quality of the result...
 
ken holliday said:
looking for info - i have an old forney ac stick welder, and an acetlene torch - I am looking for help making some weiner roasting sticks for gifts, i use 3/16 cold rolled rod for the stick and 1/8 stainless steel for the forks, in past i have tried and had some success and lots of failure using bronse torch, and more of same using various ac rods 7014, 6011 . I usually end up burning completely through the stainless steel. I am looking for suggestions of ac rods and ampes to use. I am open to any and all help I do NOT have mig or tig and have no room in workshop for them
Click to expand...


update - my help came from nephew welder, pro. he showed me how, used 50 amp, 1/8 inch rod, brown flix, - he supplied sticks that he uses at work for repairs to stainless steel mills ( he is maintanance) i now have done a few myself, he demoed about 20 for me

all done!!
 
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