Want to borrow T-nuts that would fit a Bridgeport Table

[Susquatch]

Google is always listening.... She knows I was writing about Bolts...... So this article popped up in my google feed this morning.

I like the article a lot. It is an easy read and infinitely better than a YouTube video. It covers many of the things I tried to describe above in an excellent way - much better than I did and much more general and useful than my simplified focus on T-Nuts and T-Slots. I especially like the way he uses springs as analogies for threaded connections. Of course, it doesn't address the issue of Cast Iron T-slot fragility, but in my opinion, it's still a highly recommended read for anyone using bolts and nuts. I'm going to repeat this post in the reference section of the forum.

https://www.theautopian.com/a-suspension-engineer-breaks-down-the-physics-behind-how-a-bolt-works-how-torque-specs-are-determined-how-much-of-your-ratcheting-agony-goes-into-fighting-friction/

At the end of his article he suggests additional reading. "An Introduction to the Design & Behavior of Bolted Joints" by John Bickford. I have this book in my Library. It is excellent, but prolly a bit more than most would need. But if you really want to to know more about Bolted Connections, this is the book to get.

Bickford also has another book called "A handbook of Bolts and Bolted Joints." I've seen it but don't have my own copy. It's more of an applications book than a reference text book. He also has one on Gasketed Connections.

I think the main take away is that there is a lot more to a Bolted Connection than just a Threaded Bolt & Hole.

 

[Xyphota]

Made it this far before realizing I dont have a drill chuck large enough for 1/2”-13 pilot hole.

Does anybody have preferences on gun-blueing products? Id hopefully find something local and in not too large a container.

 

[YYCHM]

Made it this far before realizing I dont have a drill chuck large enough for 1/2”-13 pilot hole.

Does anybody have preferences on gun-blueing products? Id hopefully find something local and in not too large a container.

Looks Good!

Just leave em raw. Nothing rusts in Calgary except for stuff exposed to road salt.

If you really want them darker. Hit them with a propane or map-gas torch.

You might want to consider knocking all the edge burrs off as well.

 

[Six O Two]

Made it this far before realizing I dont have a drill chuck large enough for 1/2”-13 pilot hole.

Does anybody have preferences on gun-blueing products? Id hopefully find something local and in not too large a container.

Cabela's sells Birchwood Casey Super Blue for $15. I bought some recently, but haven't had a chance to try it out.

Birchwood Casey Super Blue | Cabela's Canada

Concentrated double strength cold blue/black. Use on difficult to blue steel. Deep penetrating, no rust or lap marks. 3 oz. Shipping Restriction - this item is a dangerous good and must be shipped via ground transportation to a physical address (Cannot ship to a PO Box or Rural Route). An...

www.cabelas.ca

As @YYCHM mentions - you could instead use a propane torch to heat them up and then rub oil on them for a dark finish.

As for the drill, you should easily be able to find a 3/8" shank 27/64" drill bit just about anywhere.

Vermont American 27/64" x 3/8" Reduced Shank HSS Drill Bit

Specifications Product: HSS drill bits Manufacturer: Vermont American Model: 10483 Diameter: 27/64" Shank diameter: 3/8" Overall length: 5-3/8" Flute length: 3-15/16"

www.kmstools.com

 

[Susquatch]

Does anybody have preferences on gun-blueing products? Id hopefully find something local and in not too large a container.

As @Six O Two says, cold blue or black by Birchwood casey works ok. You can even get it at Canadian Tire or a local outdoor sports place or Amazon. Lots of applications till its black. Then rinse with water and then oil.

 

[trlvn]

I can't compare it to any others, but I've been really pleased with Jax:

JAX Iron, Steel and Nickel Blackener - JAX Chemical Company

Produces an antique metallic black finish on iron, steel and nickel.

jaxchemical.com

It applies a nice even flat black finish to steel _very_ fast and with just a couple of coats. Not toxic, no smell. In the following, the collar on the right has Jax applied:

I bought a pint ($26) from Sculpture Supply Canada in Toronto which is hands-down the coolest store I've ever been in. I think they would ship the Jax products.

Craig

 

[historicalarms]

A comment on the gun blue or black formula's, I have use bottles of the stuff over the years ( I keep 5 or 6 different manufacturers offerings on hand) and to say one manufacturer's offering is "better than the rest" probably would be a lie. The fact is that one formula will work better than others on a given metal alloy but not worth a sh!t on any other. The only way to tell witch is the best for your metal is a test spot...on someones pride & joy hunting rifle or grampa's heirloom this make a difference & is worth the test but for the usage wanted in this particular thread its not that important if the formula gives a grey-blue-black finish...or a mottled patchwork combination it will still retard oxidization of the metal.
It used to be easy to keep a selection at hand all the time but new cross-border shipping regs in the last 15 yrs on caustic chemicals has limited the supply and availability up here somewhat.

 

[PeterT]

If there is a jewelry supplier near you, they typically carry the line. In Calgary we have Kens Gems. There are other online places but stick to Canada for shipping. There are a whole host of sister formulations to put patina or whatever treatment on various other alloys, the blackening is just one of them. The most expensive $/ml seem to be the little touchup volumes found in firearm / outdoor shops. Also if you do a search on our forum, lots has been written already including trials & tribulations of sealing. My experience is same as above, they all seem to work the same regardless of brand (or not work if its an uncooperative alloy or surface condition). It doesn't last forever in a rough & tumble machining environment, the coating is quite thin. But it does look nice when it works.

 

[Susquatch]

The fact is that one formula will work better than others on a given metal alloy but not worth a sh!t on any other.

Amen Bro!

Nobody has mentioned hot bluing which is a more durable option but not for the faint of heart!

Some day I am gunna try Ceracoating.

 

[Dabbler]

@Susquatch Our little shooting group tried cerakote. Not impressed.

Here's the story: we bought several colour samples at over 100$ per 2 oz bottle, 3 months life span. we followed all the rules meticulously, and even tried a few variants of our own, including sand blast and chemical etching to prep the samples. applied as directed. all the samples easily flaked off. even light scratches turned up shiny.

So we told cerakote our result, and they sent us 3 coupons done in their lab that they boasted would be 'virtually indestructible'... the first sample flaked off with a light skuffing with a wire brush. the others were similar. I have a cerakoted action - you've seen it - and the sides of the action have skuffed off due to insertion into the stock perhaps 10 times. Our verdict: mechanical scratching and salt water test were both failures.

I hope that by now that they have improved the formula. I hope so. but after well over 1000$ of testing, never again for me.

 

[YYCHM]

http://www.pjsproducts.com/radocy.htm

Parkerizing would give a nice tough finish but it's a little more work than cold bluing.

 

[Susquatch]

Our little shooting group tried cerakote. Not impressed.

That's too bad, but for now you are saving me some wasted time.

Parkerizing would give a nice tough finish but it's a little more work than cold bluing.

Ive always been impressed with the performance of parkerizing. But I have no idea how hard it is to do. You are right, it needs to be on my list!

 

[YYCHM]

Ive always been impressed with the performance of parkerizing. But I have no idea how hard it is to do. You are right, it needs to be on my list!

It's not hard for doing for small parts. You can do it on your kitchen stove, but I wouldn't recommend doing that. A hot plate in the shop would probably suffice.

 

[Susquatch]

A hot plate in the shop would probably suffice.

I dunno about that. I think I'm safer doing it here in the house. If it requires a hot plate or a stove, then my wife is liable to think I'm cooking out there and then extend that into some claim that cooking is her domain and therefore she has a right to part occupation of my shop. She could give the Russians lessons on claiming territory!

I'd rather try to stake a claim to part occupation of her kitchen as part of my shop. That could be really dangerous too, but still less scary than her painting my shop pink and starting to bake lasagna out there.

Maybe neutral territory is better. Can parkerizing be done in the back field on a barbeque? Or how about on the asphalt driveway in the sun?

 

[YYCHM]

I dunno about that. I think I'm safer doing it here in the house. If it requires a hot plate or a stove, then my wife is liable to think I'm cooking out there and then extend that into some claim that cooking is her domain and therefore she has a right to part occupation of my shop. She could give the Russians lessons on claiming territory!

I'd rather try to stake a claim to part occupation of her kitchen as part of my shop. That could be really dangerous too, but still less scary than her painting my shop pink and starting to bake lasagna out there.

Maybe neutral territory is better. Can parkerizing be done in the back field on a barbeque? Or how about on the asphalt driveway in the sun?

I did it in our camper with all the windows, vents and doors open. Parkerizing is mild compared to some other stinky things I did out there. BBQ would work. You just need to bring the solution and parts to a mild boil.

 

[a smile]

Worried that your screw will follow the rotation, it is recommended to use a flat pad with a larger diameter, solder to the screw and then mill out two straight edges to limit the rotation