Here is a website with some prices for Gerardi vises / components (hope you are sitting down):
https://kar.ca/catalogsearch/result/index/?limit=45&q=Gerardi
https://kar.ca/catalogsearch/result/index/?limit=45&q=Gerardi
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Vise Clamps
- Thread starter Susquatch
- Start date
Ya, VERY pricey!
As a bonus though, I see GS sells a stop for their vice. If everything in the photo works the way I think it does, there is a threaded hole in the side of the front jaw assembly that the system attaches to. Mine has both those holes.
Hopefully @PeterT has the threaded hole too. If not, it might be easy for him to make one...... The stop shouldn't be hard to make either.
I got my GS clamped down temporarily using my clamp kit. If the GS Clamps are too expensive, I'm planning to get some 1x2 bar to make proper hold-down clamps for my GS.
The clamps and a neutral shift location for the back gear selector will be my first projects.
Very cool.
As a bonus though, I see GS sells a stop for their vice. If everything in the photo works the way I think it does, there is a threaded hole in the side of the front jaw assembly that the system attaches to. Mine has both those holes.
Hopefully @PeterT has the threaded hole too. If not, it might be easy for him to make one...... The stop shouldn't be hard to make either.
I got my GS clamped down temporarily using my clamp kit. If the GS Clamps are too expensive, I'm planning to get some 1x2 bar to make proper hold-down clamps for my GS.
The clamps and a neutral shift location for the back gear selector will be my first projects.
Very cool.
Yes I have a threaded hole on either the side of my fixed jaw block & did make a stop arm mounted to that. Can't seem to find my pics for some reason.
Also these Asian T-slot styles have gotten relatively inexpensive. The body parts are aluminum with steel pins & axles, but they grip OK for the intended purpose. They are pretty quick to set up & maybe a bit more useful like when work sticks out further from the vise jaw,
Also these Asian T-slot styles have gotten relatively inexpensive. The body parts are aluminum with steel pins & axles, but they grip OK for the intended purpose. They are pretty quick to set up & maybe a bit more useful like when work sticks out further from the vise jaw,
Attachments
Speaking as the voice of total inexperience, I don't really see why aluminium shouldn't work just fine. It's not a clamp - just a location stop.
I agree, it looks pretty darn useful.
You want a vise stop to repeat. Ideally with a deviation of <0.001”. So that is why a simple tool like this needs to be very beefy.
It’s like indicator stands - the thicker the bars and heavier the joints, the more accurate and repeatable they are.
I use a makeshift one using a BP 1/2” strap clamp rod through a 1.25“ heavy wall square tube ( as a way to get the height I need) with a 1.5” by 0.750” hold down bar on top. It is very solid. Not as universal as what Peter posted a picture of, but this thing does not move once attached to the table.
It’s like indicator stands - the thicker the bars and heavier the joints, the more accurate and repeatable they are.
I use a makeshift one using a BP 1/2” strap clamp rod through a 1.25“ heavy wall square tube ( as a way to get the height I need) with a 1.5” by 0.750” hold down bar on top. It is very solid. Not as universal as what Peter posted a picture of, but this thing does not move once attached to the table.
Very good points. Whenever possible, orient the stop in its most rigid, stable orientation. Choke up on the rod extension etc. Make sure the part & he rod end are clean, burr free. Avoid slapping the part to the stop. I think some of the systems out there are good in that they can orient the rod in various 3D positions, but the downside is more joints & clamps & degrees of freedom, the less stable it is. A thou is actually quite easy to deviate with just minor push pressure. There is a reason why some of those T-slot systems look stout. Especially on the big big vises like Kurt style - the rod my be 4-6" from the table. The jaw vise stops are better that way if they can be used.
I understand what you guys are saying. You are both right and I accept what you say totally.
My earlier comments were probably rooted in my lack of experience and knowledge which limit me to make very imprecise parts for the next while. Heck, I didn't even know what a vice stop was till a few posts ago!
So any and all excuses aside, I recognize that it doesn't hurt to start with stuff that is better than I need... Hopefully, I'll be needing it before I know it!
Chip Maker
Super User
Actually that's a Sowa made vise hence GS. They bought Gerrradi's patent I believe, Here's a link you should find your model on. The vise clamp link I sent earlier were Sowa's clamps for their vises.
https://www.sowatool.com/Product/9/330/1561
Thank you @Chip Maker, I think you are right. Mine appears to be the #2 model in their list of "Plain Base Modular Vises". That's the right length, jaw width, jaw depth, etc. Only that silly lip at the top of my jaw edges is different - and I'm not really sure that it really is different or got machined that way by a previous owner.
It seems funny to retain the GS Logo after buying patent rights though.....
Going from this webpage, it looks like I might be able to get replacement jaws for $80 each, and a whole new moveable module with a new jaw for
$231 - (thats the one with the chunk out of it).
Chip Maker
Super User
The GS stands for Gerrardi Sowa. Original Gerrardi's only had a G.
I've always wondered what GS was about because its a pretty broad range of tooling.
https://www.sowatool.com/Search?query=GS
Not that it matters, just curious. I have a few mill related GS tools & they are excellent quality. Apparently made in Asia but to high QC standards.
https://www.sowatool.com/Search?query=GS
Not that it matters, just curious. I have a few mill related GS tools & they are excellent quality. Apparently made in Asia but to high QC standards.
The models they sell in Italy have the GS. I had wondered what the S stood for until I saw the company name. GERARDI SPA.
We may never know the truth.
Btw, the hold-down Clamps on the Soya web site are a big question mark for me. It looks like they don't include the T-Nut or the screw. That's not the end of the world but it also looks like they are designed to use metric screws and nuts that are not included.
The Soya Clamps are decent but I found some inexpensive Clamps at Glacern with both screws and nuts. They are a bit too big but their Rep tells me that that they can be easily machined to fit.
I may buy the Glacerns to get me going, but I'm also pretty set in my mind to make my own Clamps with recessed screw heads and regular T-Nut.
Any of you guys know the correct procedure to setup those prismatic jaws? I'm guessing they shouldn't be screwed down, just brought close against the spring tension so they actually do pull the work down when tightened. But how much?
In the absence of better advice, I'm thinking I'll tighten them till they touch then back off the screws a half turn.
In the absence of better advice, I'm thinking I'll tighten them till they touch then back off the screws a half turn.
I checked my Bison vise manual. I didn't think it had any springs & it doesn't. So the Gerrardi are different in their own way apparently.
What might be helpful is this video. Set up a DTI & dial the way he does on vise jaws. You should be able to quantify the adjustment by comparing. Or failing that at least you'll know how your vise stacks up.
What might be helpful is this video. Set up a DTI & dial the way he does on vise jaws. You should be able to quantify the adjustment by comparing. Or failing that at least you'll know how your vise stacks up.
Here are links for the Gerardi vise. Great info.
http://www.gerardispa.com/products/workholding/precision-modular-vises/standard
And the manual (click on the “STD“ Download icon to get the manual).
http://www.gerardispa.com/documents/instruction-books
http://www.gerardispa.com/products/workholding/precision-modular-vises/standard
And the manual (click on the “STD“ Download icon to get the manual).
http://www.gerardispa.com/documents/instruction-books
You NAILED it @RobinHood!!
I'm a computer Geek, I looked for it extensively, and I missed it. Just goes to show that one mind is clearly inferior to two.
The instructions were pretty much as I guessed they would be. I had guessed backing off a half turn, they specify a quarter.
The manual is a bit difficult to read, but there are lots of tips and suggestions in it for using the vice.
Very Happy!!!
THANK YOU SIR !!!
Gunna order new jaws.
Good stuff @PeterT! @RobinHood found the manual for it and that answered my question.
But I am a milling newbie so I appreciated the additional info in your video. I'm a sponge right now. I'm soaking up every piece of knowledge I can.
Thank you!
I didn't look at the manuals, but when you think you have it sorted out, I'm kind of intrigued of your conclusion of why the springs. Obviously its to allow some tiny initial float, but which surfaces & why. Is it more about clamping or more about compensating for jaw swaps etc.
I'm not absolutely certain I understand your question. But I have looked at the design every which way of Sunday. I believe I know why the springs are there.
Their primary purpose is to push the Jaws away from the angled surfaces when the vise is released. Otherwise they would stay put and there would be no ability to pull the load down into the vise as it closes.
Their secondary purpose is to provide a smooth loaded closing movement to avoid having the Jaws jump around as they are closed.
I don't think they have any role in jaw swaps. In fact GS sells quick change jaws that have no springs at all.
The springs push UP on the Jaws. Therefore, they stay engaged on the sloped vertical jaw holder surface and float away from the jaw base. That way, the Jaws pull the part down tightly into the vise as the vise is tightened.
I have noticed that using parallels behind work on my lathe chuck results in a good seat, but the parallels are easily removed after the Jaws are tightened. The same thing happens on my mill/drill vise. I am anxious to see what happens on the GS.......
Does that answer your question?