Spring 2024 meetup in Calgary - date Saturday, April 20/2024. discussion Please RSVP Here to confirm and get your invitation and the location details. RSVP NOW so organizers can plan to get sufficient food etc. One week to go! More info and agenda
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Spring meet up in Ontario, April 6/2024. NEW LOCATION See Post #31 Discussion AND THE
NEW LOCATION
BTW........ The only slight disadvantage with prismatic jaws like ours is you have to be a bit more creative with a top (jaw) mount stop. The Kurt style rectangular jaws are much easier in this regard. But I can show you mine if you want ideas
OK, cancel the question on the stop. I found several references to them on line. They are used to facilitate indexing parts for repeat operations on identical parts. I can see that being useful. Perhaps even on my vice Clamps! By all means, let me know how you did it!
Still no idea what prismatic Jaws are though.......
The jaws on your vise are spring loaded and when the vise is tightened they pull down so the work piece is pulled down as well keeping it tight against parallels for example.
The jaws on your vise are spring loaded and when the vise is tightened they pull down so the work piece is pulled down as well keeping it tight against parallels for example.
I saw the springs when I took it apart. But it had been torqued right down with no spring action left. So I didn't realize that they are supposed to be a bit loose!
Another piece of knowledge.
I should probably try to get new Jaws for the GS.
The top edge is deformed. See photo.
What isn't obvious in the photo is the deformation is kitty corner. Front right edge, and rear left edge.
At first I thought something had been snagged so hard that it bent the edges. But on closer inspection, it turns out that the rest of the edge has been machined off.
I'll prolly machine everything flat, but it may be that new Jaws are in order......
Done..... I glued a wood rib that fit the T-Slot down the center to hold them in place. The question is.... If I paint them will they warp? Plastic panel would be a better choice, I guess.
It doesn't take long for oil & chips & tools to grot up the cardboard. It was never really intended to be a long term solution. It started out as a template to test & eventually cut MDF or hardboard one day but I'm just lazy (and I have a lot of cardboard!). My clamps require notches which is not as clean as just a single lug. I also like to have the table end pockets exposed although my newest habit is using small plastic trays to keep the job drills & taps & whatever all in one spot, so maybe just cover the whole table. Not quite sure what you meant by ribs but if you mean like a wood key glued on the underside that engaged the T-slot, that would help the wood from warping & also keep it positioned. I've also seen some nice covers made from of rubbery sheet, like 1/4" neoprene or similar. That might be nice too although I suspect sharp swarf might stick in there.
It doesn't take long for oil & chips & tools to grot up the cardboard. It was never really intended to be a long term solution. It started out as a template to test & eventually cut MDF or hardboard one day but I'm just lazy (and I have a lot of cardboard!). My clamps require notches which is not as clean as just a single lug. I also like to have the table end pockets exposed although my newest habit is using small plastic trays to keep the job drills & taps & whatever all in one spot, so maybe just cover the whole table. Not quite sure what you meant by ribs but if you mean like a wood key glued on the underside that engaged the T-slot, that would help the wood from warping & also keep it positioned. I've also seen some nice covers made from of rubbery sheet, like 1/4" neoprene or similar. That might be nice too although I suspect sharp swarf might stick in there.
I LOVE IT!!!! I could have used one of those a million times. In fact I could use that right now making a motor adapter for my Hartford. That adapter may be the death of me....
I've found and visited both web sites. Neither one shows my model. The base on mine is 13.5" long, the Jaws are 5" Wide, and the screw is M18-4 (which makes it a type 2 - whatever that means). I've not seen any Jaws that look like mine with a top lip. I suppose the lip could be the result of a sleeping operator and a mill gone wild. But what is left of it looks too perfect to be an accident.......
Anyway, originally I wanted clamps and jaws for it. Right now I'll settle for jaws and even that might die if they cost too much.