Vise Clamps

[Susquatch]

Anybody know where to get decent Clamps for a vice like this.



The vice came with one of my used mills but I don't have anything to clamp it down with.

I'm thinking I need something like this but they are expensive for what you get.



Or, I could make something similar. But that adds up too.

I also have a pair of nice machinists vises that I got at an auction. The photo is misleading - the one in front is half the size of the one behind it.



I need Clamps for them too. I think whatever works for the GS will work for the big one. But I think I will need a dowel clamp for the little one.

Anybody know a source in Canada for Clamps like that?

 

[Tom Kitta]

I made my own. Nice little project. Of course I made them "over size" so the ones on your picture look like toy clamps.

 

[Susquatch]

I made my own. Nice little project. Of course I made them "over size" so the ones on your picture look like toy clamps.

Yes, that was my first thought too. Then I thought, how long will it take? How much will the raw material cost? How long will it take to get what I need? Will I be able to make them if I don't have a clamping system that works now? (the chicken and egg deal). Hence a search for ready made parts. I found some in the USA as per the photo, but then I have customs to deal with.

 

[YYCHM]

Yes, that was my first thought too. Then I thought, how long will it take? How much will the raw material cost? How long will it take to get what I need? Will I be able to make them if I don't have a clamping system that works now? (the chicken and egg deal). Hence a search for ready made parts. I found some in the USA as per the photo, but then I have customs to deal with.

You can probably clamp your vise down using nothing more than washers and your T-Nuts. Alternatively round stock drilled through then milled with a flat leaving a flange to catch the vise slot. Making the clamps will be dead simple. Just a L bracket with a hole drilled through. Mill the L onto a long piece of square stock, drill N holes and then cut N brackets on the band saw. Assuming your mill slots take 1/2" T-Nuts some 1" or 1-1/2 square stock should suffice.

 

[Chip Maker]

I'm not sure if you checked out the Sowa website or not. https://www.sowatool.com/Product/9/330/1603

 

[Susquatch]

You can probably clamp your vise down using nothing more than washers and your T-Nuts. Alternatively round stock drilled through then milled with a flat leaving a flange to catch the vise slot. Making the clamps will be dead simple. Just a L bracket with a hole drilled through. Mill the L onto a long piece of square stock, drill N holes and then cut N brackets on the band saw. Assuming your mill slots take 1/2" T-Nuts some 1" or 1-1/2 square stock should suffice.

I've done the quickie washers and nuts drill before with BAD results. Not really inclined to ever do that again.

I have two mills but no bandsaw....... I'm not happy about that, but it is what it is. Please don't beat me up.

I could always use an angle grinder with a thin blade.

But I like your idea of how to make a quickie clamp out of round stock. I still have my mill/drill for light jobs like that.

My mill tables both have 5/8's slots. The mill/drill is 1/2.

But I get your drift. Make do with something while I make what I really need.

 

[Janger]

A clamp kit would work too. And be useful later.

https://www.busybeetools.com/products/clamping-kit-3-8in-52-pcs.html

 

[Janger]

I'm not sure if you checked out the Sowa website or not. https://www.sowatool.com/Product/9/330/1603

Make those - that’s a good idea. They are pretty pricey to buy.

 

[PeterT]

My Bison vise is quite similar but they don't make this model anymore. The clamps came with. I could measure/CAD for you. I definitely recommend 3 per side like this in the T slots, lots of gription without excessive gronk. Sorry 1-Holer Kurt Klub members HaHa. The bolt is quite close to the rail & the underside has a small step, good features for a clamp. I looked in Sowa catalog for the similar Taiwan GS mill vise but didn't see it. They must be out there.

 

[PeterT]

BTW, this initial square setup gets me within 0.001" runout on 5" vise jaw every single time. Good enough for blacksmith work. I still run the DTI down the jaw for sanity check but that's probably more related to shifting the vise just by alternate tightening. I often wondered about spherical washers or whatever they are called so torque friction is not translated but that's getting a bit anal about a vise. The other nice thing about this clamping arrangement is you can park & clamp the vise at at pretty much any angle which gives a lot of added functionality.


The only slight disadvantage with prismatic jaws like ours is you have to be a bit more creative with a top (jaw) mount stop. The Kurt style rectangular jaws are much easier in this regard. But I can show you mine if you want ideas

 

[Janger]

I made these. Might give you an idea.

 

[YYCHM]

I made these. Might give you an idea.

Why the pronounced C shape John?

 

[YYCHM]

@PeterT What's your mill table cover made of?



It's time I made something like that.

 

[Janger]

Why the pronounced C shape John?

kurt style vise with a big lip. I’ve since then gone to a pallet style hold down plate.

 

[Susquatch]

A clamp kit would work too. And be useful later.

https://www.busybeetools.com/products/clamping-kit-3-8in-52-pcs.html

I have a clamp kit like that. I couldn't see a good way to make it work for my application. The 5/8 kit parts are all too big to fit in the vice groove. But as per @YYCHM I will cobble something up that will work temporarily while I make something better. Even some 1/4" plate on a stack of washers would work for now.

 

[Susquatch]

My Bison vise is quite similar but they don't make this model anymore. The clamps came with. I could measure/CAD for you. I definitely recommend 3 per side like this in the T slots, lots of gription without excessive gronk. Sorry 1-Holer Kurt Klub members HaHa. The bolt is quite close to the rail & the underside has a small step, good features for a clamp. I looked in Sowa catalog for the similar Taiwan GS mill vise but didn't see it. They must be out there.

Yes, these are similar to what I have in my mind's eye. Please don't go to any trouble to draw them up. I'm sure I can figure it out.

I do have one question though, how wide are they? They have to straddle the T-slot and still be stable so width is important. Yours work so it's a good place to start.

 

[Janger]

I have a clamp kit like that. I couldn't see a good way to make it work for my application. The 5/8 kit parts are all too big to fit in the vice groove. But as per @YYCHM I will cobble something up that will work temporarily while I make something better. Even some 1/4" plate on a stack of washers would work for now.

I guess mill down the 5/8 parts to fit the groove.

 

[PeterT]

@PeterT What's your mill table cover made of?
It's time I made something like that.

The finest grade of shipping box cardboard! LoL. Once they get ratty I will probably make some out of 1/8 or 1/4 masonite (hardboard).

 

[PeterT]

I do have one question though, how wide are they? They have to straddle the T-slot and still be stable so width is important. Yours work so it's a good place to start.

Dang just came in from the shop. I can measure tomorrow but guessing 30mm wide since they are metric. So 1.25 or even wider like 1.5" just to straddle over the T-slot with a bit more span. The hex SHCS are counterbored which is kind of nice. Protruding heads might get in the way of moveable jaw sliding over but pretty simple stuff however you want to adapt.

I've been meaning to come up with something similar for my rotary table, but it has has clamp pockets in non-T-slot aligning orientations different on one side than the other, so will need a different trick. For now I use standard fixture clamps but its a lot of brickabrack on the table.

 

[Susquatch]

Dang just came in from the shop. I can measure tomorrow but guessing 30mm wide since they are metric. So 1.25 or even wider like 1.5" just to straddle over the T-slot with a bit more span. The hex SHCS are counterbored which is kind of nice. Protruding heads might get in the way of moveable jaw sliding over but pretty simple stuff however you want to adapt.

I've been meaning to come up with something similar for my rotary table, but it has has clamp pockets in non-T-slot aligning orientations different on one side than the other, so will need a different trick. For now I use standard fixture clamps but its a lot of brickabrack on the table.

Thanks @PeterT. Looks like a plan including the recessed heads.

Are the screws half inch to fit regular T nuts?

Ps - I'm so jealous of that beautiful table top.