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Tool Vevor mag drill 1100w

Tool
Janger said:
Recessed magnets on both sides. But protruding magnets might be better Peter good idea.
Click to expand...

How do you do a protruding magnet? And isn't the weight of the parts in the tray more than the magnets can handle?

I didn't realize that printing could leave a hollow part so empty without support. Very cool.

I like the custom Allen Keys. Where do you get those in individual sizes?

Can that handle 2" deep or even 3" annular cutters?
 
Susquatch said:
How do you do a protruding magnet? And isn't the weight of the parts in the tray more than the magnets can handle?

I didn't realize that printing could leave a hollow part so empty without support. Very cool.

I like the custom Allen Keys. Where do you get those in individual sizes?

Can that handle 2" deep or even 3" annular cutters?
Click to expand...
Protruding magnet - I might pile two magnets together, glued, and glue them into the hole. The magnets won't hold the tray of parts to the next tray, it's just trying to keep them aligned. I put hand holds on the bottom of the trays. The allen key handles are from printables and I stuffed the provided keys into them. It's a little wonky as the allen keys are not straight. I'll have to bend them to 90 degrees. The lid clears 2.5" cutters. You could scale it in the slicer for 3" cutters. If there is interest I'll post the .stl files.
 
this might seem like a dumb queston but if you use the reservoir, what are you using for fluid? Cutting oil? Coolant?
 
Janger said:
If there is interest I'll post the .stl files.
Click to expand...

Please.

A 3D printer is just a few weeks away. I just have to figure out how to ship it here without it arriving at the door. Bamboo won't let me specify a shipper.

Truth is that I use annular cutters for other things. So won't put them in with the other mag drill stuff. Probably their own tray instead.
 
dialedin said:
this might seem like a dumb queston but if you use the reservoir, what are you using for fluid? Cutting oil? Coolant?
Click to expand...
I used some of the Lennox "Band-Aide" coolant I have - ratio of a big gloop:to the rest water 1:10 1:20 ish? I'm sure any water based coolant would be fine. I don't remember paying that much... The fancy blasser coolant I use in my mill though is $350/pail. omg. that's like $18/litre. This stuff is still $12/litre.

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@dialedin I use 1:50 PrincesAuto soluable oil, but i mix it 1:10... It is more freeze resistant, and rusts my equipment less.... I really want to switch entirely to light cutting oil one day, but that's project 4,193....
 
The PA stuff is $20 for one litre and $45 for 4 litres. $11.25 a litre. I think 1 litre might last a long time.
 
Joni (Dabbler) said:
@dialedin I use 1:50 PrincesAuto soluable oil, but i mix it 1:10... It is more freeze resistant, and rusts my equipment less.... I really want to switch entirely to light cutting oil one day, but that's project 4,193....
Click to expand...
I was checking out their website and the only one i could really find had alot of negative review for the smell. I guess that one can get just rancid. Also rusting was a also major negative, but I suppose that will be the case with water soluable.

I might check out that Lennox band aid stuff, I have a feeling that I will be having a horizontal band saw joining the shop crew this week...
 
On the OP Topic..... I can add a few more observations since I originally bought my Vevor Mag Drill.

1. I inadvertently left the power on overnight with the drill sitting on 1/4" plate. When I went in the next morning my shop smelled. It turned out to be the Vevor. I was chatting with @Joni (Dabbler) and she suggested it might be due to using the magnet on thin plate. Apparently when the magnetic coupling is reduced, the energy loss becomes very significant. I'll test it on thicker plates and we will see.

2. The other annoying thing is the speed control. While it is variable speed, it isn't perfect. When you load it up, the speed drops off but then over about 5 seconds speeds back up. Similarly, when you unload it, the speed will increase and then slow back down to the set point.

It isnt a show stopper, but it's annoying and noticeable. I find myself wondering if a better design might fix it.
 
As I've been printing these trays and trying to figure out what to do with them I realized - JOHN! - it's a tool box! So I'm going to make the tool box frame out of some plywood. Lid needs hinges. Need a handle on top, and a latch to hold the lid down and keep the drawers in. Still mulling how to do that...
 

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dialedin said:
I was checking out their website and the only one i could really find had alot of negative review for the smell. I guess that one can get just rancid. Also rusting was a also major negative, but I suppose that will be the case with water soluable.

I might check out that Lennox band aid stuff, I have a feeling that I will be having a horizontal band saw joining the shop crew this week...
Click to expand...
So....Colin... new band saw? Pics?
 
@dialedin the PA brand is an organic oil - old school. the old school stuff develops staff infection, gets smelly, etc over time. that's because it is improperly used. you only make up what you need, and use it up. replace unused mixture after 3 months. since I use less water in the emulsion, it lasts longer, about 6 months. a jug lasts about 5 years for me. if you need to be lazy, you buy synthetic soluable oil, which lasts a couple years before replacing. you only need to top up your sump when the water evaporates off, or more oil is needed. you pay a LOT more for synthetic oil, but it doesn't smell
 
Janger said:
So....Colin... new band saw? Pics?
Click to expand...
They're in the kijiji haul section...

Joni (Dabbler) said:
@dialedin the PA brand is an organic oil - old school. the old school stuff develops staff infection, gets smelly, etc over time. that's because it is improperly used. you only make up what you need, and use it up. replace unused mixture after 3 months. since I use less water in the emulsion, it lasts longer, about 6 months. a jug lasts about 5 years for me. if you need to be lazy, you buy synthetic soluable oil, which lasts a couple years before replacing. you only need to top up your sump when the water evaporates off, or more oil is needed. you pay a LOT more for synthetic oil, but it doesn't smell
Click to expand...

I feel like synthetic soluable might be the way i need to go. I wouldnt do a terribly huge amount of cutting, so a few years would be more ideal rather than having to change it frequently for relatively little usage. Do i need to be worried about rusting leaving it in there that long?
 
**The thing I didn't say is that i only use soluable oil in a ZEP sprayer, so I only mix up small batches; for instance 300l at a time, because the PA is 29$ per gallon (22$ on sale), as opposed to 75$ per gallon for synthetic...
 
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