Tool Vevor Drill Bit Sharpener Improved

[TorontoBuilder]

Absolutely no rush whatsoever.

I'll still post them by the end of the day today.

I did notice an issue I had was that I tried to cheat and use 5mm roll pins for my upright guide rails. That was a mistake since they're too misshapen for that purpose. To test it well you really need 5mm ground pins

 

[Susquatch]

To test it well you really need 5mm ground pins

Any idea what size reamer to use to cut both free and tight pressed in holes in the base and the holder?

 

[TorontoBuilder]

Any idea what size reamer to use to cut both free and tight pressed in holes in the base and the holder?

I've tweaked the stl files a bit but I hope not too much.

One thing that can be problematic is trying to open a bore in soft plastic. The spiral flute pulls drill off center. Straight fluted reamers work okay. I'd use a 5mm reamer if you have one.

One other thing is how the parts are printed. My friend used general supports everywhere, and they clogged the bore and were a PIA to clean out. The better option is to bridge the 5mm hole and not use a support that needs to be cleaned out.

 

[Susquatch]

Straight fluted reamers work okay. I'd use a 5mm reamer if you have one.

I guess I wasn't clear. I wasn't really asking about spiral or straight. You need the block to float (slide) on the pins and you need the pins to stick in the steel frame. So two different reamers will be required. Wondering what the plan is for that? I may need to source the reamers as I don't have any metric at all (that I know of right off the cuff).

Where are you sourcing the pins? Need to make sure I get the right ones.

 

[TorontoBuilder]

@TorontoBuilder have the STLs changed since I printed them?

@DavidR8 and everyone else, please find the latest update for the MR-13 Duo conversion project here.

I adjusted hole sizes because they holes have printed a smidge under sized on multiple printers. I also lowered the overall height of the motor mount, the A tooling insert, and the A tool holder to allow the split pointing cut to sit lower (3mm IIRC). I hope this is enough, but if not I'll make a major revision to the design, because the split point cut is the whole point.

I added 3 mm threaded insert fitted from inside of the cut out. This may be tricky but will allow the best tightening to retain the insert in proper position.

The cover fastening hole has been adjusted to suit 5mm inserts found on amazon rather than more expensive inserts

 

[David]

@TorontoBuilder Do you have a recommended infill percentage?

 

[TorontoBuilder]

@TorontoBuilder Do you have a recommended infill percentage?

The parts I tried were printed with the default cura infill settings, which isn't that much. But I dont know exactly what because I didn't print them. They were super light so I think 10% and only 2 walls.

IF I was printing a final version for actual long term use I'd go with a cubic infill of between 35-45% and 6 walls where threads or inserts will go.

I'm hopeful that this will be the last iteration...

 

[David]

Test post to see if stl file attachment worked.

 

[TorontoBuilder]

Test post to see if stl file attachment worked.

Great thanks @DavidR8 for making this an acceptable file format to upload.

 

[David]

Just four prints required right?

 

[TorontoBuilder]

Just four prints required right?

@DavidR8 yep, just four required, the rear motor support is optional and is unchanged from the initial versions.

 

[David]

@DavidR8 yep, just four required, the rear motor support is optional and is unchanged from the initial versions.

Perfect. I printed all new ones for @YotaBota today.

 

[TorontoBuilder]

Perfect. I printed all new ones for @YotaBota today.

when will he be coming over with his grinder?

 

[David]

when will he be coming over with his grinder?

As soon as I recover from my cold.

 

[YotaBota]

My hazmat suit is at the cleaners so this might take a while. lol

 

[Tom O]

I can hear it now “ Da, Da, Daaaa, Da Da! Boom Boom Boom Boom!