I want to see a head to head between Milwaukee, Dewalt, and Fein. As well, corded vs battery.
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Tools you waited too long to acquire
- Thread starter slow-poke
- Start date
140mower
Don
I'm starting to feel like a helix wrapped around a cylinder..... Said repetitive action could influence the above......
I’ve been wanting a good straight edge for a long time. Well for no particular reason i got one yesterday. I’ve seen nice aluminum ones (24”) in the $50 to $90 range. But the descriptions did not show if they came in a proper protective box.
I decided on the Accusize steel model.
It looks really nice. It has a proper box plus a reusable plastic strip that fits over the ground surface. (The wood box also came in a cardboard box + bubble wrap and that was all in an Amazon shipping box). It’s rated at 0.001” over the 24”.
(Darn - I was going to attach a picture here but i get the message ‘the file is too large for the system to handle’ - so I’ve attached the Amazon link below.)
I’ve heard that these instruments should be stored hanging vertically using the hole provided. But for my small work space i plan to keep it safely in the foam lined wood box.
FWIW: I thought this would be a good opportunity to directly buy from Accusize and try out the Forum’s new 10% discount. The discount would almost pay for the shipping so I was about to go that route.
BUT - the price was exactly the same ($88.00) from Accusize and
Amazon. Except Amazon offered a 10% discount code plus free shipping. I was sort of disappointed because i wanted to try the Forum discount, but i got it from Amazon.
BTW - the straight edge looks great, no disappointment there!
(Yes @Susquatch I will let Allen know).
I decided on the Accusize steel model.
It looks really nice. It has a proper box plus a reusable plastic strip that fits over the ground surface. (The wood box also came in a cardboard box + bubble wrap and that was all in an Amazon shipping box). It’s rated at 0.001” over the 24”.
(Darn - I was going to attach a picture here but i get the message ‘the file is too large for the system to handle’ - so I’ve attached the Amazon link below.)
I’ve heard that these instruments should be stored hanging vertically using the hole provided. But for my small work space i plan to keep it safely in the foam lined wood box.
FWIW: I thought this would be a good opportunity to directly buy from Accusize and try out the Forum’s new 10% discount. The discount would almost pay for the shipping so I was about to go that route.
BUT - the price was exactly the same ($88.00) from Accusize and
Amazon. Except Amazon offered a 10% discount code plus free shipping. I was sort of disappointed because i wanted to try the Forum discount, but i got it from Amazon.
BTW - the straight edge looks great, no disappointment there!
(Yes @Susquatch I will let Allen know).
I have a tool addiction, no cure in sight. My hobby is restoring old motorcycles, all of which are Italian, Moto Guzzi, Ducati, Benelli, Aermacchi, Moto Morini, Motobi….
I did some work on a friends 1973 Moto Guzzi V7 Sport, new cylinders, pistons, refurbished heads, then last week
I retorqued the heads and set the valves and in return my friend gave me this very useful set of pliers he got from Japan. The shape of the jaws are so useful for gripping a stud, dowel etc, I have used these many times in the last week alone, I can’t imagine being without them now
I did some work on a friends 1973 Moto Guzzi V7 Sport, new cylinders, pistons, refurbished heads, then last week
I retorqued the heads and set the valves and in return my friend gave me this very useful set of pliers he got from Japan. The shape of the jaws are so useful for gripping a stud, dowel etc, I have used these many times in the last week alone, I can’t imagine being without them now
ChazzC
Ultra Member
I have a tool addiction, no cure in sight. My hobby is restoring old motorcycles, all of which are Italian, Moto Guzzi, Ducati, Benelli, Aermacchi, Moto Morini, Motobi….
I did some work on a friends 1973 Moto Guzzi V7 Sport, new cylinders, pistons, refurbished heads, then last week
I retorqued the heads and set the valves and in return my friend gave me this very useful set of pliers he got from Japan. The shape of the jaws are so useful for gripping a stud, dowel etc, I have used these many times in the last week alone, I can’t imagine being without them now
I have a collection of Engineer Pliers: great quality, unique tools (there are some similar pliers out there, but IMO not as good).
The right ‘tool’ can make the job so much easier.
Reduces frustration and helps you do more.
I guess that is why we spend a lot of money on it !!
ChazzC
Ultra Member
Yes! A couple of years ago I used the baby set of nut grabber pliers to back out a itsy bitsy screw in a laptop that had the (probably) JIS cross-point head destroyed. Would have been virtually impossible to do anything else.
I am always looking at tooling that will expand the scope of machining I can do with my Desktop 3/4 hp mini-mill. When I worked for Ex-Cell-O Canada in the 1980s we had access to #602 Mills as well as large Cincinnati units and lathes.
I finally bought an adjustable Boring Head for my mini-mill which allows me to Bore up to 1.5” Diameter holes. So far I am getting a feel for the tool with 6061-T6 Aluminum.
Works great to produce Location and Slip Fits.
Attachments
slow-poke
Ultra Member
I'm curious (I don't have an adjustable boring bar), how easy or difficult is it to setup say to 0.001" accuracy?
I cheat and just mill a circle of any diameter using a standard end mill (CNC). For smaller holes I use an annular cutter.
Easy as pie !!
The toolhead has a tight dovetail with a graduated dial (.01mm) and socket hex for an Allen wrench to move along the radius and then lock into place with (3) set screws.
The carbide cutter bars can be mounted & locked in three positions in the R8 toolhead.
Mine came with (9) steel bars with welded carbide tips (various lengths).
I am going to look for bars that have indexable inserts (who knows how long the tips will last).
Work pretty nicely so far.
The toolhead has a tight dovetail with a graduated dial (.01mm) and socket hex for an Allen wrench to move along the radius and then lock into place with (3) set screws.
The carbide cutter bars can be mounted & locked in three positions in the R8 toolhead.
Mine came with (9) steel bars with welded carbide tips (various lengths).
I am going to look for bars that have indexable inserts (who knows how long the tips will last).
Work pretty nicely so far.
I have the same boring head, use it all the time. I stick with the brazed carbide cutters, I found they last as long as the indexable carbide and having the different lengths and tip dimensions works well for my applications. Most often I use it to make valve and actuator brackets. which sounds simple but the brackets are made of rectangular tubing or bent sheet metal, are never square, made of 304 stainless, and flex all over the place. No problem dealing in to a thou if needed, just take it slow and let the tool do the work.
what's that used for?
Annular cutters are faster by a, wide margin. But can't be expected to hold a thou.
@LenVW 's is metric but imperial are available to do 0.001 as well. They work really well.
I have several sizes of imperial boring heads. I share his wish for indexable carbide though. Affordable sets seem to be rare.
I have often rough cut with an annular cutter and then fine tuned with a boring head. If nothing else, an annular cutter will leave you with a nice piece of stock for other projects. A boring head just leaves you with chips.
Here's a typical high-pressure butterfly valve assembly, used in mineral process plants and refineries. The valve (grey lump at the bottom) has a male keyed round shaft. Then there's a coupling to change to a larger diameter shaft to match the rack&pinion pneumatic cylinder that opens and closes the valve. Two brackets, one to change the valve mounting pad to a square bolt pattern, then another one to clear the bottom of the pneumatic cylinder. Then another bracket up at the top to mount a modulating electropneumatic positioner that senses valve position and uses this data to regulate the valve position 0-100% open. Another bracket to mount the stainless steel air filter/regulator and pressure gauge. All of them custom, because no two valve manufacturers use the same dimensions. Sometimes two valves from the same manufacturer, in the same pipe size, will be different.
@whydontu .… those valves are exactly the ones we used on ‘flare gas recovery systems‘ that we built at SIHI Engineered Systems for refinery operations across NA.
SIHI developed Liquid Ring Vacuum Pumps for industrial processes with 1500 hp Vacuum Pumps and Separators with complete circulation piping systems with all the required gate valving required.
We sent a dozen of these process skids to sites all over the USA.
I ordered a pair too! They seem very well made.
Interesting equipment @whydontu. Is that a 6" valve? Does it fail shut - I mean if instrument air fails does it close using springs or something? I don't see a control for the air - is that on the other side? I see the air can push on the back of the cylinder - how does it move the other direction?
Is it completely sensored and operated remotely by a PLC somewhere else or is there an electronic control on this unit where a plc tells it to open to position? Ethernet? Modbus? something like that?
How much would something like that cost?
Probably a 6”. Set up as fail close, using a spring-return pneumatic cylinder. The air control is the blue enclosure at the top of the assembly. The control accepts a 4 to 20 mA signal from a PLC and modulates the air supply to the air side of the pneumatic cylinder. There’s a mechanical linkage to the valve stem, providing a feedback to the control box to maintain valve position in proportion to the 4-20 mA signal. Sometimes the controller will also supply a 4-20 mA feedback to the PLC to provide closed-loop operation. Occasionally these assemblies will also use more sophisticated communication, MODBUS, PROFIBUS, HART, or other protocols. The industrial valve world is 20 years behind most industries in automation, mostly because valves usually don’t move very often, they move slowly, and aren’t very glamorous so engineers focus on other parts of the plant and leave us lowly valve folks to our own devices. This assembly is about $5-8K depending on the valve materials.
I’ve had a “file sander” or sometimes called a “finger sander” for several decades. It is not something that gets a lot of use but it is awesome when the need arrives.
In pic below, the B&D is mine and the new WEN is a present for my son.
The WEN is a very solid nice tool and a better built tool than my old B&D (even though the B&D was from a time when B&D still made good tools).
$79 on Amazon, yes it’s corded but the M18 Milwaukee or the battery DeWalt tools are over $200 bare tool.
In pic below, the B&D is mine and the new WEN is a present for my son.
The WEN is a very solid nice tool and a better built tool than my old B&D (even though the B&D was from a time when B&D still made good tools).
$79 on Amazon, yes it’s corded but the M18 Milwaukee or the battery DeWalt tools are over $200 bare tool.