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Tool Post Grinder

I ordered this spindle motor from bangood today. Just need to find an ER11 1/4" collet to accomodate better grinding stones.

Gotta be better than a Dremel.....

m.banggood.com

[CA$96.84 32% OFF] Machifit ER11 Chuck CNC 500W Spindle Motor with 52mm Clamps and Power Supply Speed Governor Machine Tools & Accessories from Tools on banggood.com

Machifit ER11 Chuck CNC 500W Spindle Motor with 52mm Clamps and and Power Supply Speed Governor For CNC Machine, Air cooled 0.5kw Air cooled spindle ER11 chuck CNC 500W Spindle Motor + Power Supply
m.banggood.com m.banggood.com
 
Susquatch said:
Actually, I found an ER11 imperial collet set for $12 on bangood too. So I bought that just now. It's hard to imagine a full 15 pc collet set being any good, but at that price we will see.
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I'm going to watch how your project comes out. I am convinced more power is better here. I watched Cà Lem's build on youtube, he made a really fine spindle. We've elected to build Clough42's version. It is so well documented.
 
TorontoBuilder said:
I'm going to watch how your project comes out. I am convinced more power is better here. I watched Cà Lem's build on youtube, he made a really fine spindle. We've elected to build Clough42's version. It is so well documented.
Click to expand...
Very well documented, almost too well documented for me as I told myself I can't watch 24 episodes in their entirety! Of course if one was to be making the exact changes same project it would be well worth watching then.
 
Susquatch said:
I ordered this spindle motor from bangood today. Just need to find an ER11 1/4" collet to accomodate better grinding stones.
Click to expand...

Maybe a dumb question, and also a slight detour, but why not use a 6.5 mm collet ? I have various ER sets, all metric, and since they have a reasonable clamping range I have always found a metric size that works for an imperial shaft. Is this a bad compromise ?

Dave
 
DaveK said:
Maybe a dumb question, and also a slight detour, but why not use a 6.5 mm collet ? I have various ER sets, all metric, and since they have a reasonable clamping range I have always found a metric size that works for an imperial shaft. Is this a bad compromise ?

Dave
Click to expand...

Not a dumb question at all. I'll prolly get a metric set when the price is right.

But most of my existing stones have 1/4 inch or 1/8" shafts. So 1/4 & 1/8 are a must for now.
 
combustable herbage said:
I'll throw this one into the mix as well 220 volt, down the vevor rabbit hole today.

vevor.ca

VEVOR Spindle Motor 2.2KW Water Cooled CNC Spindle Motor 2HP ER20 CNC Milling Motor 8000-24000 R/min for PCB Milling Machine | VEVOR CA

Shop VEVOR Spindle Motor 2.2KW Water Cooled CNC Spindle Motor 2HP ER20 CNC Milling Motor 8000-24000 R/min for PCB Milling Machine at lowest price, 2-day delivery, 30-day returns. Shop now at VEVOR.
vevor.ca vevor.ca
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I like that fact they point out "German import bearing" and a cost per bearing (set?) of $150 while whole spindle is less then $150 ;)
 
Don't forget your pallet forks with your spindle motor, the shit they have is amazing.

vevor.ca

VEVOR 30\" Clamp on Pallet Forks, 1500 Lbs Tractor Bucket Forks with Adjustable Stabilizer Bar, Heavy Duty Pallet Forks for Tractor Attachments, Skid Steer, Loader Bucket, 43\" Total Length | VEVOR CA

VEVOR 30" Clamp on Pallet Forks, offering 1500 lbs loading capacity with high compatibility for all loader bucket skid steers. Adjustable width for secure loads, perfect for moving logs, lumber, hay bales, and more.
vevor.ca vevor.ca
 
I’m not sure I’d buy pallet forks made from steel with a tensile strength of 3 psi, if my last set of Chinese bolts are any indication
 
Tom Kitta said:
I like that fact they point out "German import bearing" and a cost per bearing (set?) of $150 while whole spindle is less then $150 ;)
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DPittman said:
Maybe what they mean is they spent $150 more for bearings for the entire production lot to "upgrade". Hee hee.
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Cheap bearings are made everywhere, even in Germany. Since there is only one 'precision' bearing, and all you need is an ABEC3 bearing, it can be done for 5$ and the rear bearing can be almost anything, say a 60 cent one. Yes these kind of bearings can be had from Germany for these prices. You can even get FAG bearings to do this even cheaper, made in Canada.
 
These are what I built. The first one I used was a Foredom Flex -Shaft unit with H25H hand piece. (That huge block of steel was for a job I had to do years ago, I had to bore an 1 1/4" hole 6" deep into a 2" diameter stainless bar.) The Foredom worked well enough but I wanted something a little better. Plus because it was on that block of steel, taking the tool post off, putting the block on was a bit of a pain, plus the foot speed control was a pain as well. The second one I made last year, which utilizes a Bosch Colt mini router. This has worked wonderfully well. Except that you can only go about 2" deep. Most of the time is fine (rifle bolt faces for instance), lathe jaws, but deeper would be a really nice. I will probably, eventually, rig up a unit using ER16 tool holder, and machine the shaft for bearings, etc, etc.
 

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I'm impressed you got the Foredom to do that kind of work. I don't have one myself but was eyeing one more for conventional work. Was yours the 1/6 or 1/3 HP model? From what I could discern of the handpieces, its a pair of regular roller bearings inside the housing? Do you recall what kind of DOC/pass were you doing? Did things get toasty? Did you set your compound at shallow angle & feed that way or how did you monitor bore diameter progression?

Themac's have long reach ID spindles but the TPG's are stupidly expensive. Used ones can be had but vary in price & quality. I still want to build a good spindle cartridge one day with AC bearings & incorporate some specific features.
 
PeterT said:
I'm impressed you got the Foredom to do that kind of work. I don't have one myself but was eyeing one more for conventional work. Was yours the 1/6 or 1/3 HP model? From what I could discern of the handpieces, its a pair of regular roller bearings inside the housing? Do you recall what kind of DOC/pass were you doing? Did things get toasty? Did you set your compound at shallow angle & feed that way or how did you monitor bore diameter progression?

Themac's have long reach ID spindles but the TPG's are stupidly expensive. Used ones can be had but vary in price & quality. I still want to build a good spindle cartridge one day with AC bearings & incorporate some specific features.
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Hi Peter: I have a Foredom with a number of hand pieces I would part with if you are interested. I am just outside Edmonton (Sherwood Park)
 
Hi PeterT, the hand piece that I have uses 2 sets of ball bearings. The motor drive unit is the HB, which is 1/3HP. In the picture of grinding the chuck jaws, I am using the Bosch Colt router which is 1HP. Depth of cut was .001" at a time, but I had to go in and out the length of the jaws with the power feed several times to spark out before I fed it in again. I just used the cross-slide. It didn't feel warm, but that's a huge piece of steel acting as a heat sink!
 

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I recently received the spindle motor I ordered to make a tool post grinder. As delivered with the standard mounting bracket, it sits just about perfect to be on my lathe centerline.

20220127_122940.jpg


Note that the vertical bar in the photo is my lathe tool centering fixture. To mount the spindle motor the best way, I think I need to make a special tool holder to mount to my tool post. I don't have a shaper so I'll either have to use my mill to make a special tool holder or find another way.

After looking at all the trouble @YYCHM is having to make the required dovetail, I am thinking I'll just buy a 60 degree dovetail end mill and make one on my mill.

Any better ideas?
 
Have a look at this link. A ton of information about making a tool post holder. Its on an Aloris.

Aloris dovetail dimensions

Hi all: Can anyone point me to a place where I can get the dimensions for the dovetail slot in BXA size tool holders? I bought an original Aloris post and now need an assortment of tool holders to match. Also, does anyone have any idea what the tolerance would be on the dovetail? Thanks Pete
www.practicalmachinist.com
 
Unless you plan to do grinding a LOT, I wouldn't bother mounting it via the quick change tool post. It looks like it would be easy to make a new tee-nut and bracket such that you would take the QCTP off and mount the tool post grinder in its place.

Craig
 
I like that unit looks to be the perfect size for your lathe and nice length it should clamp down fairly rigid.
I think the mill is your best route, but no guarantee's of success without the right setup but with the 60 degree dovetail you maybe have an easier time of getting the two surfaces correct,
 
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