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TIR drift of Set-Tru Chuck

Interestingly, neither my garage floor, nor my basement floor, ever showed any signs of movement in relation to the vertical portions of the foundations. I looked. Hard!

Had a supervisor that spent nearly $80K trying to 'fix' his house, rather than simply accepting that he was stuck with this annual cycle. In the end, he was very good for the contractors he hired, he spent all the money he should have gained in equity while he lived there, and when he moved out, the house still rose and fell as it had before...
Frost heave.....depending on location (temperature range), water table and ground conditions foundations can move a lot. There are solutions but they cost.

And this is why they are separate and float independently. Otherwise your floor would be turned to gravel.
 
Normalizing was a bad choice of word. How about 'stress relieving'?
My logic: set screw gets torqued in to dial TIR. Once the screw bottoms on backplate boss it goes into compression as its screwed in. More torque, more compression. The reaction forces are outward along set screw axis via the female threads, which are connected to the chuck body. So the chuck wall deforms elastically outward as shown by DTI on RR video. But the backplate boss is seeing the same set screw load. It is a plate of steel with a big hole in the center. It wants to contract inward but hole is entirely filled by a meaty spindle nose offering support. While its on the lathe. Now remove the chuck + backplate assembly. No more spindle in the hole, so no more support. Why wouldn't the backplate also be free to distort to some degree over time?

Hmm, I wonder if I could just measure this the exact same way? Off-lathe distortion wasn't of interest to Robin.
 
I will clarify a little on my low opinion of Precision Levels....
Frost heave.....


Focus Boys. Foooooh-cuuuuuss
 
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Sketch of what is my brain. What am I missing?

1694482844648.webp
 
Sketch of what is my brain. What am I missing?

In my opinion, the only thing you are missing is time. The distortion happens immediately, not over time. The stress and strain relationship has no time variable in it except on extremely fast scales (speed of sound in steel), and extremely long scales (thousands of years).

However, I have zero problem with a shift taking place when the chuck is removed, nor again when it is installed. These may not be mirror images due mostly to friction. Therefore, there may be some hysteresis in the distortion.

One thing you could test that I don't think you did, is to simply remove and reinstall several times in a row. It may well be that the changes you have noticed are not the result of time on the shelf but rather just simple remove and install hysteresis. When you do test, you will have to test several times not just once because the first cycle will have different pre-conditions than subsequent ones.

I am willing to bet money this time! A coffee on me at my local Tim's?
 
I will clarify a little on my low opinion of Precision Levels....
Frost heave.....


Focus Boys. Foooooh-cuuuuuss
Why? :P

Not just the frost. The clay mud dries, and wets out, over the course of the year, plus the freeze line being 7-plus feet deep does not help at all. Honestly, I am pretty sure my house moved MUCH more in the warm weather, than when frozen in!

As to the Precision levels, I think the concept applies just fine. It IS absolutely, possible to be measuring at a level of precision, that is so very far above your needs, and the end result is frustration and anger, rather than happiness and a feeling of accomplishment!

Target the level of precision that you expect, at the needs of what you do, and to hells with all the internet 'experts' that say that you must be a rube, if you don't own a bunch of high grade measuring equipment, that is well beyond your ACTUAL needs!
 
Sketch of what is my brain. What am I missing?

View attachment 38243
You missed whether you put a hot cuppa, on the headstock, as well as whether you placed your hand on the lathe while the measurements were taken. Depending on how the lathe is secured, and to what, also where you were standing, when the measurements were taken.

Only mostly, tongue in cheek, as I have seen instrumentation that could measure the little wee differences. On the other hand, if it made good parts, that were straight, square, and to size, adequate to the actual needs, it was actually all good, no matter what was measured at the 'fine' end of the scale!

Per my above, I am pretty happy with the idea that the adjustment for concentricity as we are discussing, should be a VERY low effort operation, as far as the loads being put on the adjuster screws goes.
 
Frost heave.....depending on location (temperature range), water table and ground conditions foundations can move a lot. There are solutions but they cost.

And this is why they are separate and float independently. Otherwise your floor would be turned to gravel.
Certainly. But I heard a great deal from my co-workers about how their houses floated up and down, and it was not the foundation concrete that bore the brunt, but the finish joinery, either drywall, or trim and paneling, that showed the motion.

Altogether, it really served to show that there are a lot more forces and reactions out there, than the average guy figures there are, and that the end results can be, well, unpredictable, though consistent through the years. (which is to say, guessing what MIGHT happen, is of less value than noting the circumstances, and noting the resultant effects)
 
In my opinion, the only thing you are missing is time. The distortion happens immediately, not over time.
Nope, we are still not connecting. Since this audience prefers frost heave & levels & sh*t flows downhill... :rolleyes: lets try this

The blue beam is riveted to the yellow beam on the ends (red). The yellow beam is fully attached on bottom surface to flat granite earth (grey). The blue beam has a threaded hole with jack screw (black). Lets say for argument the beams are same material & dimensions so my cartoon looks reasonable.
1694497093368.png

We jack on the bolt, blue beam deflects/distorts upward, yellow beam stays put.
1694497246513.png


Now we release the beam assembly, yellow no longer connected to granite earth. The jackscrew remains with same force & the distance between the beams at the jackscrew is the same. But at this 'time' the beams stress relieve themselves. Since they are pinned at the ends & have equal opposing force mid span, they now both take on a different shape. The blue beam has relaxed in curvature but the yellow beam has distorted. If I position the assembly back on flat earth, it no longer 'fits' because yellow is now curved.
1694497355919.png


So the analogy is: blue = chuck body. Yellow = backplate. Grey = spindle nose completely filling & supporting backplate center hole. Black = set screw. White in the middle is annular runout gap. The 3rd picture represents when the chuck is removed from spindle nose & the 'time' it distorts.

Now I could theoretically force the beams back as they were, conform the yellow to flat earth again & it would look like middle picture within elastic limits. But now the analogy is getting a bit weird because we are talking about a no longer round tapered socket (backplate) socket trying to fit a round tapered spindle nose, being sucked in by camlocks....
 
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Nope, we are still not connecting.

What you just described is almost EXACTLY what I suggested and was quite comfortable with. The only major difference is that you only focussed on distortion in the axial direction and I could easily see other forces experiencing similar changes.

Now I could theoretically force the beams back as they were, conform the yellow to flat earth again & it would look like middle picture within elastic limits. But now the analogy is getting a bit weird because we are talking about a no longer round tapered socket (backplate) socket trying to fit a round tapered spindle nose, being sucked in by camlocks....

Theoretically yes, but not in reality. As you describe, the no longer round socket and other dimensional changes will supply friction that did not exist during the the pre-balanced condition. These friction forces will generate hysteresis in the forces and resulting flecture of the parts. No matter how solidly you mount the backplate, this friction induced stress will result in distortion of the re-installed chuck that wasn't there when it was first installed with loose jack screws.

As I mentioned previously, you will have to mount the chuck several times to evaluate this because the first cycle is not the same as subsequent cycles.

In your second last description, you said:

Why wouldn't the backplate also be free to distort to some degree over time?

It was your comment, "over time" that I didn't agree with, not your overall theory. I frankly think your theory is bang on albeit only focussed on one variable when there are many. Hence my eager willingness to bet a coffee to be consumed in Chatham.

I also wish to acknowledge that @RobinHood pointed out this very issue in his very first post albeit not calling it hysteresis.

On the 5C chuck, was it removed and remounted to the spindle during the timeframe where it “drifted” out of concentricity? We know the 6J was removed.

If it was taken off and put back on the spindle, my bet is on the backing plate taper engaging too heavily before it is drawn completely onto the flange - thus distorting the plate (or, the taper may be too loose).

Then he proceeded to throw us all off by diving into cam-lock tightening sequence! LOL!

No matter how carefully you mount the chuck, it is near impossible to put the exact same force on the same cams in the same sequence from one time to the next.

I believe that different preconditions, that result in different friction, causing hysteresis, is the bigger culprit here.

I think it's also worth noting here that there are other forces that really do include such meager forces as @trevj suggests:

You missed whether you put a hot cuppa, on the headstock, as well as whether you placed your hand on the lathe while the measurements were taken. Depending on how the lathe is secured, and to what, also where you were standing, when the measurements were taken.

Only mostly, tongue in cheek, as I have seen instrumentation that could measure the little wee differences.

I won't refer to Gotteswinter's or Renzetti's rubber cuz it's not my saying, but will instead repeat my own version which I have said many many times on here - long before I first heard theirs. "Absolutely everything moves (no matter how big or strong) in response to applied forces (no matter how small) - it isn't if, it's only how much and does it matter."

In conclusion, I think we are done here Peter. Great job as usual.

I'd happily pay you to teach me to use Fusion as effortlessly as you do. I am soooooo jealous!
 
Certainly. But I heard a great deal from my co-workers about how their houses floated up and down, and it was not the foundation concrete that bore the brunt, but the finish joinery, either drywall, or trim and paneling, that showed the motion.

Altogether, it really served to show that there are a lot more forces and reactions out there, than the average guy figures there are, and that the end results can be, well, unpredictable, though consistent through the years. (which is to say, guessing what MIGHT happen, is of less value than noting the circumstances, and noting the resultant effects)
Its worth mentioning here that a house's "above ground" form will shift markedly from winter cold to summer heat. My house sits on powder dry sandy soil that drains moisture away easily ( There are never puddles laying around my house even after a 3" rain, ground water is just "gone" immediately) but the doors in the upstairs will shift from easily opened to sliding friction at every season change. Some really cold snaps will cause this house to change shape & Snap like a .22 was discharged inside.
 
How consistent is the temperature of your shop? When not in use my shop{garage} is 5C or so, when I am using it 18C , and in the summer it can be 30C+. Everything moves with temperature change, even steel or iron. I talked to a machine tool rebuilder about a friends Monarch 10EE that the bed was squiggling around on. He recommended beating it with a 2x4, and then retesting it. It seemed To work some and after 3 beatings it was turning as straight as we could measure.


Apparently this is common practice with machine tool scrapers to get their straight edges to stop moving around. I have always wanted to take one of Richard Kings classes, but they are way beyond my resources and he refuses to come to Canada due to all the paper work required. He teaches classes all over the world , but not here.
 
What am I missing?
Nothing. Between that post and your #70 post, I believe you are identifying what is happening perfectly…

So, the solution it seems is to slacken off the adjusting screws after the front locking screws hold the chuck body tight to the backing plate after TIR is reduced to the minimum. Confirm nothing has moved and things should stay in place even after removal off of and remounting back to the lathe spindle.
 
Its worth mentioning here that a house's "above ground" form will shift markedly from winter cold to summer heat. My house sits on powder dry sandy soil that drains moisture away easily ( There are never puddles laying around my house even after a 3" rain, ground water is just "gone" immediately) but the doors in the upstairs will shift from easily opened to sliding friction at every season change. Some really cold snaps will cause this house to change shape & Snap like a .22 was discharged inside.
Yeah, every wood structure changes with humidity and temperature, steel framing just swaps out humidity to temperature as the usual 'major' influence.

But it's not often that you can grab a tape and measure the difference in width of the hallway walls between floor and ceiling levels, in most areas. Up there, it was REALLY pronounced.

Before living there, I had never seen movement like that before. I had been told of it by co-workers, but seeing it was a bit of an eye opener. Once we realized that despite the cabinets pulling from the walls, at their tops, there really was not any damage being done, it went from worrying, to merely interesting.
 
When I build my first log home the biggest thing was compensating for wood expansion and contractions in DIA because of humidity. Later in the concrete foundation industry (residential homes) proper compensation for frost heave given soil conditions was the concern.

Concrete slabs (provided surrounding foundations eliminated frost) rarely moved unless hydraulic lift occurred (seen it happen twice after twenty years no problem on house).

Even though I understand the causes it amazes me when it happens.
 
4 pages of information and I still don't know if I should buy the plain back or set-tru version.

My advice is pretty simple really.

If you can afford it, buy the set-tru version. If not, the plain back would make 90% of us very happy.

If you do get the set-tru version, 90% of us will be jealous. But don't leave the grub screws tight as per @RobinHood's advice in post #73 above and it will serve you very well.
 
When I build my first log home the biggest thing was compensating for wood expansion and contractions in DIA because of humidity. Later in the concrete foundation industry (residential homes) proper compensation for frost heave given soil conditions was the concern.

Concrete slabs (provided surrounding foundations eliminated frost) rarely moved unless hydraulic lift occurred (seen it happen twice after twenty years no problem on house).

Even though I understand the causes it amazes me when it happens.
The Log Home industry has libraries full of methods to deal with the movement and settling of the Logs, and being able to stop windows from popping out, and doors to still keep opening and closing.
My advice is pretty simple really.

If you can afford it, buy the set-tru version. If not, the plain back would make 90% of us very happy.

If you do get the set-tru version, 90% of us will be jealous. But don't leave the grub screws tight as per @RobinHood's advice in post #73 above and it will serve you very well.
Agree entirely. If you can afford to, go as high up the food chain, as far as quality of original build (equals higher prices, unfortunately) as you can manage as well. In my opinion, most of the German, Swiss, and Japanese chucks are top tier. American made, and British, as well as Eastern European (Bison, eg: ) if in decent condition, not far behind. Taiwanese probably next, and probably about as much of a crapshoot buying Chinese or Indian made, though each of the items has to be judged on it's merits, at that last level. Keep in mind that each Chuck maker of the old-school lot, also had various Lines of product, ranging from Utilitarian, through Precision stuff.

Kinda false economy, dropping down several tiers of original build quality, and ending up having more headaches than joy, out of the new toys!
 
I'd happily pay you to teach me to use Fusion as effortlessly as you do. I am soooooo jealous!
Hopefully you aren't referring to the scribbles in post #64 & #69. That's just the 'Shapes' dropdown tool within Excel. Or as we like to say at work, crayons for accountants LOL. (The same annotation toolbar is in any MS product).
 
4 pages of information and I still don't know if I should buy the plain back or set-tru version.
Its need vs cost/affordability. Only you can answer. My Bison 6" 3J reversible is within 0.0015" TIR. Mostly I wanted a 6J for extra holding situations, so the sub-decision became do I go all in with Set-Tru version. I really like my ST 5C collet chuck for adjustability. The click button caught me at a weak moment. But as mentioned, cost has become stupid past couple years. Not sure I would make the same decision today over other toys. Maybe check around different names. PBA is supposedly good. Gator is dimensionally the same or at least they claimed interchangeability with Bison. Canadian Bison sellers are definitely more than USA sellers landed to your door with dinger fees.

And some guys have modified plain back chucks to be Set-Tru by buying an oversize backplate, machining the set adjuster screws boss, tapping holes etc. Renzetti went gung ho pimping his 8" but he is on a different level.
 
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