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Shop Things to have in your dream shop!

Shop

Brent H

Ultra Member
Hey folks!

So I am working on plans for expanding the shop I will be moving to. Essentially there is an existing 24 x 40 shop that will become my cabinet/wood working shop. I am hoping to add on at least another 24 x 40 space for the metal working.

Large Tools: Bridgeport Mill, 2 x 10” Utilathes, Cincinati No 2 tool grinder/sharpener, horizontal band saw, 3 x 4 foot welding table

Possible additions of a surface grinder, large drill press, brake/shear

Some ideas: beam/trolly system, washroom, clean up sink, vent hood ……

Power will be 200 amp (not sure about 3 phase but I do not think it is in the area. Heat pump for heat, lots of lighting, storage …..

What do you folks like to have/ would like to have in your machining space…..??
 
Hey folks!

So I am working on plans for expanding the shop I will be moving to. Essentially there is an existing 24 x 40 shop that will become my cabinet/wood working shop. I am hoping to add on at least another 24 x 40 space for the metal working.

Large Tools: Bridgeport Mill, 2 x 10” Utilathes, Cincinati No 2 tool grinder/sharpener, horizontal band saw, 3 x 4 foot welding table

Possible additions of a surface grinder, large drill press, brake/shear

Some ideas: beam/trolly system, washroom, clean up sink, vent hood ……

Power will be 200 amp (not sure about 3 phase but I do not think it is in the area. Heat pump for heat, lots of lighting, storage …..

What do you folks like to have/ would like to have in your machining space…..??
A heated floor.......;)
 

David_R8

Scrapper of metal
Moderator
Premium Member
What is this 24x40 thing you speak of? I cannot imagine this rare beast! ;)
I echo Don's vote for heated floor. And lots of natural light.
 

ShawnR

Ultra Member
Premium Member
Central vac. Similar idea to a wood shop but maybe chip catchers at your metal machines. Dragging a shop vac through the chaos that seems to occur when I get a project going is a PITA. Would be nice just to have a hose to deal with at the equipment but I don't think the metal chips will flow through tubing like wood chips do. I figure a catch bin at the machines would suffice. Or plan B, mount a shop vac on the wall next to the mill and near the lathe?
 

Doggggboy

Super User
Definitely full length bridge crane that covers the majority of the floor. Would probably eliminate the need for a gantry crane or a engine hoist.
Multiple solid anchor points in the floor for a come along or winch to get unpowered or unliftable items into the shop.
Vent hood and spray booth .
Separate area for all the dirty, dusty crap like grinders.
Ethernet or wifi.
Metal storage rack.
Large covered concrete pad outside for the stuff that won't fit inside once you fill it up:)
Floor drains
Have I blown your budget yet?
 
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TorontoBuilder

Well-Known Member
A heated floor.......;)
+1

In fact a radient heated floor in a cold climate is a must in my opinion, augmented by a small HVAC system to provide circulation and ventilation air because if you have a tight shop as you should, machine tools tend to offgass vocs from the various fluids used to maintain them.

Depending on which cold climate you live in either ground source heat pump or cold climate type air source heat pump to water provide cheaper efficient heat source to provide the heat to the floor, and small air handler for such a system.

Then one area with a strong ventilation hood, multipurpose for any really vile thing you wish to do... that area needs a exhaust fan and a make up air unit with hepa filtration.. for me it would be a painting and pickle making area
 

Darren

Ultra Member
Premium Member
Some things i did that I like on my 36x50x14 shop:

I built my shop using attic trusses, which gives me a 12x50 storage room. Make sure to spec a 2x12 bottom cord. I'll be accessing the space via an elevator to save space.

My main 100amp electical panel is on the front wall beside the man door, and there are 3 other 60amp panels in the shop. This is to save on having to run every circuit back to the main. All panels are SQ D QOseries, so the breakers are all the same.

In floor heat. I have 62 yards of concrete. I put the pex in for infloor heat, but i'm still using a way too small homemade wood boiler. I burn all my scraps, cardboard, etc and it warms the floor up and the shop stays warm for days. I have a 75k btu propane suspended unit heater for main heat, controled by a wifi thermostat. I can turn the heat on remotely. Its the best. Heat is shut off when i'm not in there. Floor heat keeps it warm. I'm building a bigger wood boiler to reduce my propane usage.

You can't have too much insulation. Insulate under the slab too. I used R10 and wish I had gone R20, but it was a budgetary decision.

You probably don't need a 14' ceiling and I only do because of the hoists. I wouldn't go less than 12' though.

I put a channel floor drain in and plumbing for sink/shower/toilet in one corner.
 

Doggggboy

Super User
+1

In fact a radient heated floor in a cold climate is a must in my opinion, augmented by a small HVAC system to provide circulation and ventilation air because if you have a tight shop as you should, machine tools tend to offgass vocs from the various fluids used to maintain them.

Depending on which cold climate you live in either ground source heat pump or cold climate type air source heat pump to water provide cheaper efficient heat source to provide the heat to the floor, and small air handler for such a system.

Then one area with a strong ventilation hood, multipurpose for any really vile thing you wish to do... that area needs a exhaust fan and a make up air unit with hepa filtration.. for me it would be a painting and pickle making area
Pickle making?
I was confused for a minute and then remembered all the times I nearly choked to death as a milkman walking into peoples' houses during pickle making season.
Boiling vinegar is a particularly noxious thing.
 

TorontoBuilder

Well-Known Member
floor scale for weighing machines...

I have a long long list, but to keep it short, 60x38 shop divided in two by shipping area, mechanical room/elevator/bathrooms and stairs up to a full second floor with kitchenette, lounge, and art studio with paint booth
 

TorontoBuilder

Well-Known Member
Pickle making?
I was confused for a minute and then remembered all the times I nearly choked to death as a milkman walking into peoples' houses during pickle making season.
Boiling vinegar is a particularly noxious thing.
there are certain processes in print making that can by just as noxious too
 

TorontoBuilder

Well-Known Member
Some things i did that I like on my 36x50x14 shop:

I built my shop using attic trusses, which gives me a 12x50 storage room. Make sure to spec a 2x12 bottom cord. I'll be accessing the space via an elevator to save space.

My main 100amp electical panel is on the front wall beside the man door, and there are 3 other 60amp panels in the shop. This is to save on having to run every circuit back to the main. All panels are SQ D QOseries, so the breakers are all the same.

In floor heat. I have 62 yards of concrete. I put the pex in for infloor heat, but i'm still using a way too small homemade wood boiler. I burn all my scraps, cardboard, etc and it warms the floor up and the shop stays warm for days. I have a 75k btu propane suspended unit heater for main heat, controled by a wifi thermostat. I can turn the heat on remotely. Its the best. Heat is shut off when i'm not in there. Floor heat keeps it warm. I'm building a bigger wood boiler to reduce my propane usage.

You can't have too much insulation. Insulate under the slab too. I used R10 and wish I had gone R20, but it was a budgetary decision.

You probably don't need a 14' ceiling and I only do because of the hoists. I wouldn't go less than 12' though.

I put a channel floor drain in and plumbing for sink/shower/toilet in one corner.
as a housing consultant familiar with costs of construction, I'd advise against attic trusses desgined to provide storage space.

just add a whole second floor, It is not that much more cost to double your area. It also likely permits lowing the footprint of the shop you actually need and can end up costing the same as that complicated truss design that limits availabel loft space.

the real cost is the foundation...

That's why I often toy with the idea of stacking my wood shop over my metal shop and lowering the footprint...
 

Darren

Ultra Member
Premium Member
I was about 50k into the slab/foundation before I started building walls etc. And I did everything myself other than placing and finishing the concrete.
So I agree with you there.

Attic trusses were around 2k more than regular for my building. Went from 4/12 to 6/12, so overall building height only increased by 3'. I didn't want an entire second floor. Nor would I have been permitted for it.
 

Gearhead88

Super User
I can only dream of having a supersized deluxe shop , ............. sigh , I'm retired and I'm on a budget so I try to work with what I've got .

Expanding the existing garage wasn't an option , making better use of the available space was .

For a while , I wanted a shed to use for storage and to free up space in the 22' x 22' Garage I have so this year I went ahead with that plan and framed one , I never really had a plan or a drawing , just pictures I found cruising the net of various sheds. The biggest I could go without a permit was 10' x 10' . I did shop around to see what was commonly available at building supply stores and was not impressed with what is offered . A steel bolt together " garden shed" is not a good choice for me , they are flimsy and the door opening is sized for midgets , anything available in wood construction was cheaply built very expensive for what you get and generally a crappy product .

I live next to a park / school / soccer field / green space , the city planted poplar trees around the perimeter in the 70's . There's a large poplar next to my yard that has ruined the lawn , has damaged my sewer line and is a general pain in the butt , every spring it sheds an anormous amount of sticky seed casings that stick to everything and make a mess of my camper. I began my yard improvement project in the spring by removing what was left of my once nice lawn , digging for days , hacking and chopping away at the roots to prepare the yard . Like I said , I'm on a budget and pouring a slab wasn't in the plan , I went with patio slabs , I already had several .

I broke ground ( and some wind ) in March to prepare the site.

OOKP4450.JPG
This picture represents less that a quarter of the roots I exposed , dug up and removed .

A few months went by before I actually bought any lumber and began construction.

IMG_2121.JPG

The base platform was all 2" x 6" treated lumber , sitting on top of several cement slabs .


IMG_2125.JPG

ELVE1808.JPG

WKZH0155.JPG


IMG_2322.JPG

IMG_2326.JPG

IMG_2377.JPG

It's full now , freeing up quite a bit of space in my Garage / workshop.
 
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SomeGuy

Hobbyist
My dream shop definitely has a full bridge crane, at least 2T but probably 5T or more so I could easily lift pretty much anything that would ever be in there. I'd want divided sections for metal fab, machining, woodworking, electronics/repairs, wash bay, storage, parking (like a showroom), mechanical room, and automotive with multiple lifts. Heated and cooled of course, with full washroom facilities, and a kitchen/dining/hangout spot. With enough property around it, both paved and off road, to shake down anything I was building or toys I had to play with.

We're basically talking 100,000+ sq feet on 100+ acres :)

I'll have to suffice with my little 18x20+6x12 garage :(
 

TorontoBuilder

Well-Known Member
I was about 50k into the slab/foundation before I started building walls etc. And I did everything myself other than placing and finishing the concrete.
So I agree with you there.

Attic trusses were around 2k more than regular for my building. Went from 4/12 to 6/12, so overall building height only increased by 3'. I didn't want an entire second floor. Nor would I have been permitted for it.
a two storey structure as described is permissible on all rural zoned properties in ontario
 

Darren

Ultra Member
Premium Member
a two storey structure as described is permissible on all rural zoned properties in ontario
Yes, with structural and soil engineering and a full septic system, and a lot of extra cost. I don't need the space (already had 12x24 and 22x44), so for me I didn't want it.

But the main permit issuer, the wife, was not permitting it.
 

TorontoBuilder

Well-Known Member
My dream shop definitely has a full bridge crane, at least 2T but probably 5T or more so I could easily lift pretty much anything that would ever be in there. I'd want divided sections for metal fab, machining, woodworking, electronics/repairs, wash bay, storage, parking (like a showroom), mechanical room, and automotive with multiple lifts. Heated and cooled of course, with full washroom facilities, and a kitchen/dining/hangout spot. With enough property around it, both paved and off road, to shake down anything I was building or toys I had to play with.

We're basically talking 100,000+ sq feet on 100+ acres :)

I'll have to suffice with my little 18x20+6x12 garage :(

Yes, with structural and soil engineering and a full septic system, and a lot of extra cost. I don't need the space (already had 12x24 and 22x44), so for me I didn't want it.

But the main permit issuer, the wife, was not permitting it.
There, now no one else will get the wrong impression which was that it can't be done due to code related issues... Reality is that it always comes down to the boss's decision.
 

Dabbler

Ultra Member
So here's what hasn't been mentioned before:

A storage area for 20' or 10' steel. It is a pain and a pity to have to cut up your stock more than you have to.
Also planned storage for off-cuts and different types of materials

A liquids storage area, especially for 5 gallon oils.

Ensure good drainage to a year round drain. I prefer a central drain - less slope is required, but it makes cleaning oil and grease off the floor far easier.

Plywood walls. I drywalled mine. My mistake.

For my 8'2" ceiling, I have installed roof receptacles Very handy, but if you go 12' then no.

The biggest man-door you can find. I have a 36" but would have benefited with a 40", even though I have a car door.
Somehow big stuff comes in unexpectedly through the man-door.

The best concrete finisher you can find. And before occupancy, the longest lasting finish you can buy. After 30 years I have to refinish mine. Pain.

Over-ventilate your attic space. I changed my attic ventilation 15 years ago, and haven't regretted it. The code options are the *minimum* to prevent accumulation of moisture. Double code requirements is about right. Vents are cheap.

I used to store stuff in the attic but I don't any more. It seems to get forgotten there.

Windows are a no-go. In the summer sun, they glare (making good lighting difficult), and you lose valuable wall space for storage. In winter they are heat sinks.

+1 on a bridge crane - with a 22-odd foot span, even a 1 ton is going to be *expensive* but worth it. I'm installing a 15' wide bridge crane right now. On a 26 foot wide garage. My design point is 400 lbs. good enough for me. I move really heavy stuff with pallet jacks.

Heated water for wash up is a nice-to-have, as well as a coat rack for changing in and out of shop clothes and shoes, so you don't track in the chips!

So now that I've spent all your money, you're welcome! :cool:
 
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