Stick Welding- what’s your favourite rod?

[justin1]

I've gotta disagree with you on this point, go buy a box of p-auto 7018, burn that, and then try some ESAB, even someone who has only burnt up one or two boxes will be able to see a difference

I don't think you're giving hobbiest enough credit, there are some very good hobby welders out there, plenty of guys that have the knack, just don't do it for a living

Agreed. Personally I don’t think welding is that tricky, at least for just gluing two pieces of metal together and leaving a decent bead behind. Now overhead or vertical stitching with a stick I’d struggle, even stainless I found a little different

Even @Susquatch ”should” be able to lay a decent weld with some help

No that's fair i haven't had the pleasure of burning princess auto rods I did once buy 1lb of 3/32 7018 from lordco once I think it was called fire rod or somthing. But ye it was bad like rebaked wet airliquide one hit flux falls off and had the slag like Hobart when it did work.

And I didn't mean to discredit hobbists but I think when it comes to practice any brand will help you learn and burning any rod is better then not burning rods at all. As welding is mostly just practicing various positions over and over and trouble shooting. That and it's cheaper to burn the crap stuff and save the good stuff for projects

I have worked with a few ticketed welders over the years who couldn't weld to save there life and boggles me how they pass b pressure and or keep their cwbs valid. I have also seen things hobbists have produced that have better quality then most avg welders can produce because the level of attention and care are miles higher then the avg welder who can get sucked into the good enough mind set which I'm guilty of aswell sometimes.

But I think as a hobbists it's easy to get sucked down the "if I don't have the best and greatest 'insert brand of welder or rod here' I cant produce anything of quality". I think having quality tools and materials goes a long way but when your first starting out I think it's more achievable to use what you can afford or have access too then upgrade later I've used some shitty equipment over the years and can still produce good quality work it just takes a bit more effort.

I personally would rather be able to build stuff with shit tools then just dream about building it. Kinda like my cover for my RPC I don't own sheet metal shear or brake of any kind I used the corner of my welding table and 3$ rubber mallet and a piece of tin from a IBC tote cause I had it laying around lol. Would of been a lot easier if I owned the tools for doing it just having found the space yet to get that stuff

So I guess in summery of my rant lol don't let the little things stop you?

 

[Chicken lights]

But I think as a hobbists it's easy to get sucked down the "if I don't have the best and greatest 'insert brand of welder or rod here' I cant produce anything of quality". I think having quality tools and materials goes a long way but when your first starting out I think it's more achievable to use what you can afford or have access too then upgrade later I've used some shitty equipment over the years and can still produce good quality work it just takes a bit more effort.
So I guess in summery of my rant lol don't let the little things stop you?

I agree, don’t let having cheap or minimal gear stop you from attempting projects. My only comment is that quality tools DO perform better, a Bridgeport used by the right hands will always beat my drill press. Heck a competent operator using my drill press will turn out better work than me

But if your wrenches have more flex than a gymnast doing yoga, you’re going to round off nuts. Cheap screwdrivers will waller out screw heads. I guess everyone needs to evaluate where they put their shop dollars, I personally get frustrated using cheap hand tools.

I also realize a Lincoln tombstone welder in the back shed can lay plenty of great welds, it’s all choosing where to scrimp and where to splurge

 

[Dan Dubeau]

I advise againt the millwright route. Consider electrical or perhaps heavy duty mechanic.

My 1.6 cents opinion.

Gluck

Appreciate the advice, Millwright is still a pretty good path around here (GTA) with a lot of options and paths within. Much better than automotive toolmaker anymore. Eventually I'd like to get into automation, PLC programming, and that part of it, but starting out would love a change of pace and scenery to learn new things and a variety of other stuff. Hopefully build off the career I've had and hop onto a new ladder that goes higher than my current one. There's enough work in the nuke plants here that if I could get into there in the next 5-6 years, I could ride that to retirement, and have a much, much better one than if I stayed where I'm at. Even if I don't get in there, there is still enough industry around here I think I can make a good go of it for the rest of my career, much better than if I stayed in automotive tooling.

If I was a young 20 something I'd be going electrical all the way though. Funny story, When I was 21, post college for mech eng tech, I was out dropping off resumes trying to land an electrical apprenticeship as that's what I actually wanted to do, and got a call from a buddy that his place was looking for an autocad designer, and if I was interested to stop by for an interview. I'd dropped off maybe 10 resumes already that day and was in the area, so I popped in. Interview went great, was offered a job on the spot so I took it, and started the following week. Never did get any calls from those resumes. But I've been in that industry (automotive fixtures) through a few different shops and roles ever since and managed to make a decent career out of it so far, but it's time for a change. I've always kinda wondered what if I'd got one of those calls though. I have a few electrician buddies and they have it pretty good right now.

HVAC is another option I've considered too, but Who knows. I turned 40 last year. Perhaps it's just a mid life crisis, and I should buy a miata or something lol.

 

[phaxtris]

Perhaps it's just a mid life crisis, and I should buy a miata and put an ls in it

There, fixed it for you

 

[Dan Dubeau]

There, fixed it for you

One day I'd love to built a cedar strip boat with a marinised LS in it. I'd much rather throttle that up across the lake, or head up the river through a few locks, than have a nice car anymore. Bikes ruined cars for me.

 

[Proxule]

Ill mag you directly regarding this topic. No need to clutter this thread.

 

[Former Member]

I've watch this thread with interest as I first learned stick welding in high school with the perfect weld being the practice material to welding table not intentionally. Later switched to flux core mig with my own machine, easy in comparison to stick, recently to Tig and contrary to what I expected relatively easy and way more control to Mig.

Since my Tig machine can do stick it is something I want to try again as I do see the advantages and since I have gotten rid of my Mig welder.

I also found that the biggest help in welding was an Auto Darkening helmet.

 

[Aliva]

Back in the 1970's I got my HDEM license, worked in the trade for several years. Being in my 20's things were good and could I handle changing dozer tracks, engines or hydraulic pumps in a fly infested swamp, or weather -20C temps. As time went on and I got older I tired of this crap. I decided to change things up and got my millwrights license. Life was good again. Both trades served me well, made good money raised a family. I retired as a millwright in 2016. Both trades have their pros and cons. Both can be physically demanding and can result in aches and pains latter on, which I'm now experiencing. Here in Sudbury both trades are in high demand and pay very well in the $45/hr. range, welders in the $35/hr. range. If I were to do it all over again I would seriously look into the electrical trade, much easier on the body, and an electrician carriers most of their tools on his hip not in a 500 pound tool box. I'm now in my 70's and still welding a fair bit, and am blind in one eye from birth. So being blind in one eye is a handicap but it can be over come. The only thing I need to do now while welding is start using 2 hands to hold the whip, not as steady as a 30 year old.

 

[StevSmar]

…were you trying 7018AC?…

I believe so… Its a Lincoln 7018AC-RSP rod that’s DC+/AC 65-100A. It was pretty dusty on Home Despots shelves, so I don’t know if that makes a difference.

…you will also notice there is a distinct difference in the brands of rods, you should give a couple brands a go…

Yes, I should try some other brands for sure. So far I’ve been using Princess Auto’s PowerWeld, and the Lincoln above.

I just want to get the stand for the Mill welded up this winter, so I’m going to leave experimenting until later I think.

 

[phaxtris]

I believe so… Its a Lincoln 7018AC-RSP rod that’s DC+/AC 65-100A. It was pretty dusty on Home Despots shelves, so I don’t know if that makes a difference.

Then the only thing i could imagine is as the rod burnt away you weren't keeping a correct arc length and it was just to long of an arc length for your machine to maintain...rod stops

Yes, I should try some other brands for sure. So far I’ve been using Princess Auto’s PowerWeld, and the Lincoln above.

I just want to get the stand for the Mill welded up this winter, so I’m going to leave experimenting until later I think.

fair enough....winter project season is coming to a close....summer project season is upon us!

 

[StevSmar]

I also found that the biggest help in welding was an Auto Darkening helmet

That’s a big +100 for me too!

It is really nice not to have to “flick” the helmet down which I could sometimes do, and striking an arc is easier. Another advantage I’m finding, is that I can steady my hand with my other hand and not have to pull the visor down.

 

[StevSmar]

Then the only thing i could imagine is as the rod burnt away you weren't keeping a correct arc length and it was just to long of an arc length for your machine to maintain...rod stops

When I was doing practise runs, on some of them I was even lightly “dragging” the rod and it seemed to make no difference to the arc going out. So I just went “oh well, my welder can’t put out enough AC”.

The electrical panel is maybe 35’ away and the cable is the minimum size for 30A, so maybe it’s a voltage drop thing?

The welds that I did put down with 7018AC were beautiful, but being only able to weld 1-1.5” was a pain.
Having to flick or file the end of the 7018AC at each restart was annoying.

Mind you, I was able to do some 6013 welds that needed a restart, where I ran out of rod (being cheap…) and had to restart with a fresh rod and it wasn’t that obvious where the restart was…
I’m not sure if this is a restart weld or not:

 

[phaxtris]

When I was doing practise runs, on some of them I was even lightly “dragging” the rod and it seemed to make no difference to the arc going out. So I just went “oh well, my welder can’t put out enough AC”.

The electrical panel is maybe 35’ away and the cable is the minimum size for 30A, so maybe it’s a voltage drop thing?

The welds that I did put down with 7018AC were beautiful, but being only able to weld 1-1.5” was a pain.
Having to flick or file the end of the 7018AC at each restart was annoying.

Mind you, I was able to do some 6013 welds that needed a restart, where I ran out of rod (being cheap…) and had to restart with a fresh rod and it wasn’t that obvious where the restart was…
I’m not sure if this is a restart weld or not:
View attachment 30995

that looks ok, the one start/stop (not sure, probably your stop) isnt to great. Other than that your off to a great start!

i normally burn 3/32 7018 around the mid 80's (on dc), so your 100a setting should have been plenty, but i wouldn't worry about that to much, if it runs 6013 fine then just stick with that, no sense in fighting with it to much.....chances are if you stick with the metal working thing your going to buy a 3 in 1 in the future anyways....and then you will have DC, and mig

 

[Downwindtracker2]

Bang the 7018 end on concrete, it makes starting almost like a fresh rod.

 

[140mower]

Bang the 7018 end on concrete, it makes starting almost like a fresh rod.

A fire brick on the welding table can be handy for "striking" the end of the rod prior to restarts as well. I have found that banging the rods usually results in half a rod with no flux, especially with the cheaper rods....

 

[Downwindtracker2]

Maybe tap would have been a better word. But then I have only used LA rod . It can get sticky . I'm sure somewhere along the way, I might have used other brands, but I don't remember. Stainless, hardsurfacing and cast iron were other brands.

 

[trevj]

Maybe tap would have been a better word. But then I have only used LA rod . It can get sticky . I'm sure somewhere along the way, I might have used other brands, but I don't remember. Stainless, hardsurfacing and cast iron were other brands.

Meh. All I ever did was pinch the end of the rod with my gloved fingers, to set back the coating and expose the undercut away rod. Burnt a LOT of 7018, over the years, almost none of it was inside the 'dry' window, but none of my work was to code either, so... I can pretty much count on some 6011 and some 7018 being around, I prefer not to run out of either.

"Course, had one or two occasions to leave the HF Start running, too... There are SOME advantages to having a crusty old school transformer welding machine that does not think it's smarter than the guy holding the whip!

 

[Proxule]

Meh. All I ever did was pinch the end of the rod with my gloved fingers, to set back the coating and expose the undercut away rod.

Only method I use. Quick and effective!

 

[Aliva]

Pinching the end works well or tap it against you chipping hammer both methods work well.
When restarting the bead, start the weld about 1/2" from the ending of the last bead then blend in. When starting a new bead especially on an edge, start the bead about 1/2" from the edge, form the puddle and then move to the edge and start the new bead, this prevents burning up the edge.

 

[historicalarms]

Any one eyed guys in their late 70s?...... If so, that would give me the hope I don't seem to be able to muster today.....

Yaup look over this way, at least I will fit the age requirement in a few months, the one eye thing is over 30 yrs ago now.
The depth perception thing is very real when you first loose an eye. I pretty much avoided welding for quite a few years because of it when I lost an eye. I mostly & quickly overcame my depth perception problems with a lot of forced practice ( both truck driving & distance shooting were my livelihood & pastime & perception is essential for both. I avoided welding like the plague for a lot of yrs but now I weld when I need too but not nearly as proficient as I used to be.